Hello Terry,
Read this first:
Before you go any further; Please call Iowa Farm Equipment and ask to speak to someone in the shop about your flail mower. You may have an over center control valve on the rod end of the cylinder port.
You may have an over center control valve that just needs to be adjusted.
I suggest this sincerely as you have an implement that by its nature creates an extended over center load that needs finite control in movement like the boom on a utility bucket truck. The over center control valve would be a large machined block mounted on the rod end of the cylinder.
They should have a hydraulic schematic for this flail mower in their service manuals and they can tell you how to adjust it correctly if the over center control valve is end user adjustable. I can send an e-mail to Peruzzo and ask them too. You may have a bad valve as a valve like this only meters oil slowly in both directions to assure that the boom does not move fast in either direction at any elevation or extension.
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1. I was not sure if trip across the border to Georgia to a Cross/Parker sales office there would be efficient that is why I asked.
2. Mounting the needle valves on the cylinder ports is fine as long as you have the clearance to do it all it would require is the correct 90 degree male female fitting for the metric threads on the cylinder port and the pipe thread of the needle valves.
3. you can purchase 2 way flow control valves that have adjustable regulated flow on both the retract and extend functions from several manufacturers but the cross folks would be the best bet for you as they are in state.
4. About the orifices; Terry I would rather see you take the cylinders and hoses intact to a Cross Hose sales office and let them take care of it for you only because they will know what to do for you to set it up right.
With the disconnects on the hose ends you will have a fluid tight connection that will not leak and they will be able to inspect everything and install the valves in one of their shops for you.
If you decide to go to a Cross Hose office;
Call them and ask to speak to someone in their sales office that is very familiar with parker needle valves
and spend time on the phone telling them about your Italian flail mower and how you have it plumbed in your front end loader circuit and explain to them what you are experiencing with the jerky control issues.
Fax all the information about your flail mower to this office or mail it to the attention of this specific person and remind them that you would like to bring the complete hoses and the cylinders intact to their office so that you can obtain the correct control valves. They will have a test bench there to test the assembly when it is put together on their hydraulic work bench
They may have the Metric to National Pipe Thread hydraulic fittings there or in another Cross Hose office so they can use an National Pipe Thread control valve of the proper type to save time and money for you.
Leon
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Three and a half hours, if you consider Dillard, in the mountains of northeast corner to be in Georgia. Why do you ask?
[Quote[My only other thought is to call IFE and have them ship you 4 Parker metric needle valves and the metric 90 degree fittings and the Pipe to Pipe fittings you need to mount the 4 needle valves on the cylinders.
It would make things simpler for you if you could talk to the IFE folks and ask them to call Cross and tell them what you need for your mower and they could ship it to you from one of their sales offices.
I'm not sure mounting them on the cylinders is the best solution. Some of the hoses have 90 degree ends, and other have pressure relief valves. I'm thinking it might be easier to mount them on the other end of the hose, at the quick-connects. Any reason that won't work? In that case I don't know that I need metric threads, but I'm not sure about that.
I seems these are one-way valves. Are there not valves that restrict in both directions?
Also removing the current orifices is an issue because I'd need to figure out how to make up that connection without them.
I haven't tried yet to disassemble them to figure out what the current orifice size is as Aaron suggested.[/QUOTE]
