3000psi hydraulic fittings should be fine. CUTs generally have their relief valves set in the 2200+- 100 range.
Thanks, Eric.
3000psi hydraulic fittings should be fine. CUTs generally have their relief valves set in the 2200+- 100 range.
The valve block that is attached to the banjo fittings is a metering valve I believe. The least little bit of dirt or foreign particle in the control surface can make it operate in an erratic manner.
Your mower manual should have a hydraulic schematic showing everything that operates the mower.
If you have time tomorrow please call the IFE folks and ask to speak to someone in the shop and tell them you are having trouble with the finite control of your mower and ask about the this valve to find out exactly what valve it is and ask if a piece of debris could get in there and cause it to operate poorly.
They did call back the next afternoon to ask if anyone called back. The fellow who called said the over-active controls are common, and one just has to "feather" the controls more. When I pressed he passed me to another fellow who seemed more familiar with the machine.
He told me that the cylindrical thing on the rod end of the lift cylinder was an adjustable flow control. He didn't know about the complex valve on the base end of the swing cylinder, but yesterday emailed me and said it "is a built-in safety in the event that the mower catches an obstruction during use (acts like an absorber/shock)."
I knew from the manual there was a relief valve on that circuit, but his description seems a bit strange. A relief valve there provides no protection if you hit something while moving, as that cylinder does not allow the mower head to swing back. So the only relief it can provide for an obstruction is when you are actively extending the mower to the side. I know it does do that, because the unit does refuse to extend in certain circumstances, especially while stopped with it on the ground.
He also said to leave the orifices in place, as they are factory parts. He made no mention of my suggestion that a needle valve might be useful.
So, they did call back a day later, and basically they claim it's fine, one only needs to learn to use a feather touch on the controls. In my view, no help.
He told me that they sell hundreds of these boom mounted flail mowers annually and your problems with the flail mower are the first time he has heard of an issue with these flail mowers.
The only thing that comes to my mind is if the engine speed is high being the PTO engine speed of the mule when you are moving the boom and mower head.
If you are not doing this already would you mind lowering the engine speed before you move the boom and the mower head to where you are going to begin mowing?
===========================================================================Thanks for following up, Leon.
That's strange because their US dealer says that's a common issue, and the sales manager says he experiences it himself.
That's not practical because I move the mower often while mowing, only rarely before starting. Reducing the engine speed while mowing doesn't work because as you know the cut quality is already very poor at full speed, and worse at reduced speed.
Terry
On it's way, Leon. Thanks.Would you mind sending me your e mail in a PM so I can send the letter I just received from Lorenzo Peruzzo?
He is very concerned that the mower is not doing what it should be doing and at least you will have a direct e-mail to send to him as well.
He suggested drilling out the restrictor slightly to improve the oil flow in the letter and he also sent along a schematic for me to send to you.