L6060- Half mile paved driveway

[zzvyb6]

I am back to using a front 8' truck plow mounted on the tractor frame. At 45 deg angle and in top gear, I can toss the sidebanks pretty far away at the beginning of the season. I'm now on concrete. Yes the banks can creep in as the season progresses, but I have never had trouble pushing them farther away even when frozen. The freeze tends to harden the top surface and not the ground layer so the whole 'curb' moves easily.

I tried the snowblower. Took 3 times as long and I don't have a cab to keep the flying snow from covering me and the tractor. I plow about 800' each direction and with a plow the tractor does not even reach warm temperature when I am done. I have a tendency to keep going onto the road after I do the driveway, but cars will follow me on the road and I will not plow them a path to their workplace.

Seems like a front plow and a rear blower would suit you as long as you have a place to park the complete unit. Buy a neck brace if you go this route.

 

[Rustyiron]

I'd start with the plow. Pushing the eventual banks back where needed is a fun thing to do at your convenience on a nice sunny weekend.
You could add a rear blower later if you need another toy to play with and blowing the banks back instead of pushing them.

 

[FatTire]

I agree with those above who are pointing out that a blower isn't the best tool for those light storms. If you have an FEL you can get a skidsteer QA snowplow (straight) for a lot less money than a V-plow. I've seen used ones that were nice for under $2000 and new ones under $3000. Then get a rear mount PTO snow blower. For light snow you can quickly plow, when its deep you can run the blower. Also wondering how many remotes you have? Two is nice, you can have hydraulic rotation and chute deflection. If I were going with a front blower I'd probably go with the power pack and FEL mounted blower. With that setup it would still only take 5 minutes to switch from blower to plow.

 

[Jay4200]

Forget a plow. They are good for short and wide, like parking lots. Long and skinny, like a 1/2mi driveway is totally snowblower terrain - you will seriously regret a plow once the berms build up and you can't clear your drive anymore (after about the 3rd storm). You can go as fast as you want with a blower, as long as it can take the snow. If the snow starts to pile up in front of the blower, you're going too fast - simple as that. Just keep the engine WFO to keep the blower clear. The hydraulic pump with FEL-mounted hydraulic blower is the gold standard of blowers. It is the most versatile and coolest set up that there is. Option #4 is a rear mounted PTO direct-drive blower with will be less that 1/2 the cost of the front mounted options - only down side is running in reverse, but it's not as bad as it sounds. However, if you can afford the front mounts, by all means go with option #2, provided the pump has adequate flow - 20GPM doesn't sound like nearly enough for a 60HP tractor.

 

[TheFarmerInAdell]

How about a pull-type snowblower? No need to go backwards and you can keep the FEL on. You could even put a plow on the FEL and the blower on the back to accommodate whatever snow you get, or draft then blow like someone else suggested.

MK Martin | Meteor - Pull Type
Inverted - Pull type - Pronovost

 

[Fallon]

I had a 32hp, 3,000lbs L3200. It stalled out (lack of traction) plowing at 1-1.5' of snow. I picked up a used 3pt blower to handle drifts & stuff I couldn't plow. I still used my SSQA plow 75% of the time. A blade is way faster. Really the only big reasons to use a blower are not wanting berms on the side (usually not a problem unless you get a lot of snow & it stays cold all winter or you have sidewalks) or the snow is to deep to plow. Plow until you can't, then spin around & blow if needed.

My new L4060HSTC is the same "frame" as your L6060, just 20hp less. I can push over 2' of denser snow now as my new machine is double the weight & probably double the traction. I sold my 60" blower 2 winters ago as it was 12" skinnier than my tires. I have only half hearted thought about replacing it. I can work through 2.5-3' drifts if needed with my machine & not slow down to much. We tend to have snow melt off pretty quick (no berms) here in the Denver area.

A good SSQA plow is going to be under $4k. Cheaper than a 3pt blower & WAY cheaper than any front mount blower or a SSQA blower & hydraulic power pack.

What other hydraulics would you use that power pack for? It will be a fair bit less efficient than any PTO powered impliments. I've thought about trying to build my own powerpack & blower setup occasionally, but could never justify it, even if I could get massively cheap parts to build it with.

Also, chains tend to eat up pavement pretty good, so avoid them unless you really need them. I needed them on my old machine (front only, didnt have clearance for them on the rears). I got front chains for the L4060, but have yet to bother installing them as I've had enough traction from loaded tires & 3pt ballast alone. I have R4s, which are less traction than R1s too.

 

[oosik]

I have a mile long gravel driveway. For the 37 years I've been out here - its been a heavy duty rear blade that has been used to clear the snow on my driveway. Works great - moves right along(average 6 to 8 mph) - when offset it will throw the snow well off the driveway.

I currently have an extremely heavy duty Rhino - 950 - 96" and 1100 pounds. The extreme duty is necessary for summer maintenance - my driveway dries out and becomes concrete after the spring rains.

View attachment 573136

 

[majorwager]

Rear blade is a ridiculous snow tool for NY Winters. Why would driving over snow to pack it down before attempting removal be logical?
There have been many valid points posted concerning both blowers and plows. A plow is definitely faster. If the plowing lane is narrow, and lacking space to push snow off to the sides, then agree w/ blower selection. I own and use both, but unless experiencing heavy drifting, the front plow is the initial choice.

As for the V plow, likely an unnecessary expense, a power angle version should be adequate.
Not a fan of pull type blower, again why pack The snow before removal.

The hydraulic power pack and hydraulic blower is a great tool but very expensive. I built a power pack last year capable of 32 GPM @ 2500 psi. albeit to power a front mount mower. But future plans do include a front hyd blower.

I have reservations about 20 gpm output being adequate. ?? There is a link in previous post to MK Martin in Canada. If I were to purchase a power pack/blower combination, that is the source I would choose.

Last year I tried a snow pusher, no hydraulics required, it worked well, will continue that removal route this season.

Good luck in your quest. Note: My snow pusher has rubber cutting edge, gentle on paved surfaces !! Photo below.

 

[JohnBuffaloMN]

Forget a plow. They are good for short and wide, like parking lots. Long and skinny, like a 1/2mi driveway is totally snowblower terrain - you will seriously regret a plow once the berms build up and you can't clear your drive anymore (after about the 3rd storm). You can go as fast as you want with a blower, as long as it can take the snow. If the snow starts to pile up in front of the blower, you're going too fast - simple as that. Just keep the engine WFO to keep the blower clear. The hydraulic pump with FEL-mounted hydraulic blower is the gold standard of blowers. It is the most versatile and coolest set up that there is. Option #4 is a rear mounted PTO direct-drive blower with will be less that 1/2 the cost of the front mounted options - only down side is running in reverse, but it's not as bad as it sounds. However, if you can afford the front mounts, by all means go with option #2, provided the pump has adequate flow - 20GPM doesn't sound like nearly enough for a 60HP tractor.

+1 on snowthrower and blade. My (edit: 1/4 mile) driveway was paved twice... the first time inadequately, the last time with 3-4" of asphalt. The paving company told me it will take at least two and some years before it is cured/settled. I used a 7' back blade on my Ford N, but not enough traction (ag r4? tires filled) on small inclines to pull the snow. Heavy wet snow was a no go with that setup, especially the next time when the sides are all ice. I purchased a used Toro Groundsmaster 4wd with a thrower ($3.5K) and a heated cab (another important element) and put on rubber tire chains. Now clearing snow is easy and even fun. I still get the blade out once in a while to do some cleanup, but primary tool is the Toro.

 

[msb1766]

I use a front mounted snow blower and a rear blade, I use the rear blade for 2" or less. I angle the blade and windrow it to one side the use the blower to get rid of the snow.
With a front mounted blower you will be surprised how much snow you can move. Like others have said with the blower you only have to move the snow once, no snow banks at the
end of or along the driveway and with that there is less snow to drift across the driveway.