I JUST CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION / hYDRAULIC fluid in the 1963 John Deere 4010

[jrsavoie]

What kind of noise does it make when turning by hand? Usually when turning by hand while all lines are hooked up there should be no noise. Also usually turn very stiff since it is trying to build pressure. The position for installing coupler halves does not matter. Where ever you can reach bolts the best. I usually use a long extension with flex socket from right side. The torques you mentioned will be fine. To be honest I dont think I have ever torqued those bolts. Just make them tight and they will be fine. Of course when you have been doing it a long time you get a "feel" for tightening hardware. Normally the bolts holding the halves together are long enough to have a lock nut installed on the other side of coupler after bolt is tightened.

It makes a little squeak. It sounds like a hydraulic whine.

I torque everything. I have no feel for tight. In my younger day, I used to break off 3/8 bolts without realizing they were tight.

For me it seemed easier to have the top bolt head to the left when the coupler is vertical. That way you can get to it over top of the radiator hose.

Those were the correct torques.

The book calls for the lock nuts - nothing special about them - just 3/8-16 tpi lock nuts.

The bolts are Grade 5, 2 1/2" fully threaded. grade 8 could also be used.

From what I have heard, a lot of people have had issues from not using the lock nuts

 

[jrsavoie]

I suspicion the clutch is slipping. A neighbor borrowed it to field cultivate a couple of acres with a 16' field cultivator.

He said after it was warmed up, it was hard to shift gears. After he let it cool down, it would shift fine again until it got warmed up again.

He also said he had some smoke roll out through the shifter. Not sure what that was. I am guessing smoke from blow by?

The clutch pedal has about 1" free travel as I understand it should

Any further suggestions on how to proceed? Should I change the oil out to John Deere oil and see what happens?

The tractor is 6 miles away. Should I change the fluid again before trying to drive it home?

I am guessing that whatever caused the fluid to be so dirty black when I changed it the first time, is the real cause of my issues. I don't know that the tractor has been worked in years. The previous owner mostly used it to run a 6' bush hog.

It sat for a couple of years before I bought it.

Any suggestions and how to proceed would be greatly appreciated

I have about 3 acres that needs the field cultivator run through it ASAP. But it will have to wait until I know I am not going to do further damage by running it.

Does anybody have any guesstimates on what parts will cost - worst case scenario?

 

[jrsavoie]

My front hydraulic pump on the 1963 4010 diesel wide front is making noise.

What are my best options to fix it? Have it rebuilt?

By new? If buying new is best where to buy?

Buy a reman? If so where to buy?

I'm kind of scared to buy used unless I know the full history. I'm afraid I'll get something like I already have.

The 3 point is very jerky and the steering also has some jerkiness to it

WHat are the dangers of the pump scattering and putting debri in the system?

One guy told me to run it until it's done - I fear doing that and causing more damage.

I pulled apart the coupler and the rubbers looked good I could not feel any slop in anything and everything looked good

 

[Tx Jim]

Did you ever check standby pressure????????? Many CC frt hyd pumps have been replaced to find out there was nothing wrong with the pump that was replaced!!!

 

[jrsavoie]

Did you ever check standby pressure????????? Many CC frt hyd pumps have been replaced to find out there was nothing wrong with the pump that was replaced!!!

I am waiting for a guy to come over right now to check the flow rate and standby pressure.

Still curious as to what my options are for the front pump if it turns out that is the issue.

 

[jrsavoie]

Did you ever check standby pressure????????? Many CC frt hyd pumps have been replaced to find out there was nothing wrong with the pump that was replaced!!!

We checked hydraulic pressure at the hydraulic couplings by the 3 point - We had 1500 psi

There we had about 6 gpm flow.

We took apart the line that runs to the front pump - There we had over 1 gallon in 15 seconds

Surpluscenter.com was suggested as a place To buy a pump. I have been doing business with them for many years. Back when they were called Burden's Surplus Center.

Is there a way I can check for a pump from them if giving them the application doesn't work?

Were these pumps specific to John Deere?

I can find stuff for my old Ford by searching Cav pumps. Can I do something similar with the front pump for the 4010?

Do you agree that the front pump is probably the issue?

Are there other diagnostics we should do before yanking the pump?

 

[Tx Jim]

Did you try loosening lock nut then turning screw in[CW](key 43) on frt plate underside of pump to attempt to increase pressure to 2250-2350 psi. Before giving up on frt pump I'd suggest to check pressure in frt of pressure control valve because pressure control valve could possibly be blocking oil flow to rear of tractor. What is your tractors serial number??? If pump pressure can't be increased and pump is going to be replaced I'd choose pump AR94660 because it has larger pumping capacity.

 

[jrsavoie]

Did you try loosening lock nut then turning screw in[CW](key 43) on frt plate underside of pump to attempt to increase pressure to 2250-2350 psi. Before giving up on frt pump I'd suggest to check pressure in front of pressure control valve because pressure control valve could possibly be blocking oil flow to rear of tractor. What is your tractors serial number??? If pump pressure can't be increased and pump is going to be replaced I'd choose pump AR94660 because it has larger pumping capacity.

My apologies. I hit the 1 instead of the 2. We had about 2500 PSI.

1963 4010 diesel, syncro, wide front, Serial number 4010 2 Stamped -1 T Stamped 36381

A rebuilder contacted me to rebuild my pump. Is that worth doing or should I just buy a new pump?

Some things can be better than new after being rebuilt. Other stuff you are just as well off to buy a new part.

I forgot to ask a price at John Deere when I was there yesterday.

Reliance John Deere Replacement Hydraulic Radial Piston Pump NAR9466, 9-895 | eBay

 

[Tx Jim]

2500 is about 100-150 psi too high. Pump problem could be faulty crankcase valve. The one large problem with attempting to rebuild the piston pump is if the bores are worn I've never heard of a good way to renew the bores. I think oversize pistons are not offered. New pump on Amazon is $850. Price for JD and A&I from local JD dealer is in photo below. Your tractor is below serial number 038199 which means smaller pump is listed for the older SN so larger pump might require different hyd fittings. I'd need to do some research to know for sure.

 

[Tx Jim]

Do you know if your tractors hyd pump has a seal drain line? It would be mounted at lower rear of pump body. Larger pump requires a larger fitting on RH side(AT33033)