I JUST CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION / hYDRAULIC fluid in the 1963 John Deere 4010

[beenthere]

Been a lot of changes to equipment design happening in the last 55 years, as well as techs with 1963 knowledge are now long retired and new techs get their training in the new technology.
Frustrating, but progress quickly moves on to newer things, whether better or not for us.

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Where do I find an experienced tech? Seems the techs at the dealers are all to young to be experienced.

All advice I can give is to get a manual and do it step by step with dailgauges

 

[jrsavoie]

Been a lot of changes to equipment design happening in the last 55 years, as well as techs with 1963 knowledge are now long retired and new techs get their training in the new technology.
Frustrating, but progress quickly moves on to newer things, whether better or not for us.

I got this advice, Can anybody confirm?

You can get a valve from either a 7520 or a utility tractor that will bolt in place of the original & be a lot better valve. You have to change the line fittings, as I remember. It will have the rabbit/turtle lever like a late model. A leak around the end cap on those old ones often means a crack in the housing, 50 years of high pressure will get to cast iron eventually.

I got them from Abilene machine, actually it was their guy that told me they would work.

Used Selective Control Valve John Deere 164 275 214 294 2555 295 235 2 | eBay

John Deere 752 Selective Control Valve AR83549 R6554 R4599 | eBay

I have dual remotes. For the time being, what do I need to do to eliminate the leaker and just run one remote?

 

[Tx Jim]

I think the later model scv would be better but I doubt it's a direct swap without requiring some alterations to hyd fittings & control lever connections. I think the rabbit/turtle knob would not be easily accessed to change valve flow where it will be located under your tractors hood. To remove one of the older leaking valves to have just one older valve would just require relocating some caps plus need sealing washers plus possibly relocating mounting bracket depending on which valve is leaking.

 

[jrsavoie]

I think the later model scv would be better but I doubt it's a direct swap without requiring some alterations to hyd fittings & control lever connections. I think the rabbit/turtle knob would not be easily accessed to change valve flow where it will be located under your tractors hood. To remove one of the older leaking valves to have just one older valve would just require relocating some caps plus need sealing washers plus possibly relocating mounting bracket depending on which valve is leaking.

I replied once and the reply disaPPeared.

If the newer valve is better I had just as well go that route. The SCV is leaking to bad to ignore. I still don't know how much the Pump will be costing. I asked what they charge for a rebuilding the pump at the dealer and got a shoulder shrug. I'd like to at least have a clue before dropping it off. If they stick it in my ***, I won't be able to go there anymore.

If I can cheaply eliminate one valve for the time being, That is what I'd do. Unless I can get both the valve and front hydraulic pump done for a reasonable price

I didn't know the dealer rebuilt the pumps. All I saw was new or reman pricing

It is the bottom valve that appears to be leaking.

Never know for sure since leaks tend to run downhill. The top SCV does appear to be dry.

My right remote leaks pretty good unless something is plugged into it.

I will have to look at the controls to see if the bottom SCV is for the right remote

 

[jrsavoie]

I think the later model scv would be better but I doubt it's a direct swap without requiring some alterations to hyd fittings & control lever connections. I think the rabbit/turtle knob would not be easily accessed to change valve flow where it will be located under your tractors hood. To remove one of the older leaking valves to have just one older valve would just require relocating some caps plus need sealing washers plus possibly relocating mounting bracket depending on which valve is leaking.

Will the front hydraulic pump off a 5020 work on my 4010. There is one for sale a couple hours away.

What would be a fair price for it?

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Will the front hydraulic pump off a 5020 work on my 4010. There is one for sale a couple hours away.

What would be a fair price for it?

Other opsion is to vet a close sentervalve and connect that to the tractor

 

[jrsavoie]

Are the top and bottom SCV's the same? A guy has one for sale that they bought new for a spare. It's been sitting on the shelf for a long time

 

[DLTTrekkers]

Are the top and bottom SCV's the same? A guy has one for sale that they bought new for a spare. It's been sitting on the shelf for a long time

For a long time.....y ? All is going my route !

 

[jrsavoie]

I don't remember ever seeing a frt hyd pump installed with the end plate rotated 180 ｰ but I suppose it could happen. I think if you put all parts back in the orifice you'll be fine to operate the tractor. I don't remember seeing the yrs I was employed at JD dealer many filters in frt hyd pump plate that needed cleaning/replacing.

We have the pump out. The back plate definitely looks to be upside down. Everything is upside down from th schematic. The lettering on the front pump plate is upside down as it sits.

The pump was still pumping, but whining. Do you think there is any possibility of turning the back plate upside down and having it work. I am assuming it had a full kit installed. But based on what I've seen, I am very skeptical about the workmanship