buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
Yes, had it happen. Bad crimps.
Proof positive that starter is locking.I agree with the not likely bad cables part. Moving the truck a little bit while in 4th gear which turns the engine a little bit is a pretty fail proof way of getting it to start with the starter. The starter gear is new along with the rest of the starter. The part of the ring gear I was able to see looked perfect. The starter came with a shim but I don’t use it. It said don’t use unless needed and I didn’t know how to measure clearance so I decided to try without it. I didn’t hear any abnormal sounds and the new starter worked flawlessly for probably 2 weeks so I decided the shim probably wasn’t needed.
Proof positive that starter is locking.
Off topic but on grounding...
We went to the beach in high school and stayed late... time to go and one of the two cars had a dead battery... no jumpers and no one else around...
I said we need to have the bumpers of both cars firmly touching and then doubled up some speaker wire positive to positive... it worked.
So I should remove starter and install shim? What is the definition of locking? I’m pretty sure the starter gear is never engaging when it fails to start. You can hear the solenoid clicking is the only sound it makes. Usually it will start after a few tries without rolling the truck.
Correcting no crank or slow crank symptoms by replacing cables after cleaning the connections on the old cables without improvement is pretty convincing. Voltage drop testing is helpful.I have read people on this site claim that cables go bad internally. Except for the ends, I don't believe this, although I may not be correct.
I have a generator with such issues. Corrected connections and even changed the starter. If the battery voltage isn't right up there, it won't say boo.
12 volt is a really lousy voltage for such applications!