Will my M8540 pull this??

[bswiv]

I know......hard to answer because soil makes such a difference......but if anyone has pulled similar and in what conditions that would help.

M8540 4WD and am considering: Oliver & Dahlman | Series TOLH Offset Lift Harrow

The 2800 pounds gives me pause. Have a Hardie 360 Ditch Bank Cutter that weighs 1800+ that I use regular BUT I am not dragging it but rather skimming it along the surface.

They do have a 14 disk version that weighs a few pounds less, would drag easier and maybe cut deeper........all good for forestry......but will that make and real difference?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Your tractor should pull all but the 10'6" model I would think. Simply set your 3pt hitch position and draft control to keep the disk at a constant depth and draft load. I would think that set at an 8" deep cut you should be fine. Virgin soil will most likely need a couple of passes to get down that deep.

Of course you need to take into consideration of all the variables of the ground as the website mentions, but also how your tractor is set up. Your overall weight , type of tire. The capabilities of your tractor are not a set thing, there are always variables that should be considered.

IMO, your tractor has the capabilities to make use of the 9' unit if set up right. If you have inclines that you need to disk, maybe don't go over the 7'6" unit. But that would be the minimum width that I would even consider.

Just my :2cents:.

Good luck. :thumbsup:

 

[KWentling]

You do see their HP minimums don't you? Soil conditions can make a world of difference, but still. You're going to need lots of ballast for sure. I'm pretty sure that would be a "no-go" here.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You do see their HP minimums don't you? Soil conditions can make a world of difference, but still. You're going to need lots of ballast for sure. I'm pretty sure that would be a "no-go" here.

If you are talking to me, yes sir I see the HP requirements. My 75hp, 12,000lb machine would have no issues with what I have listed out for his tractor. But then as has been mentioned, there are lots of variables as to what would be best for the OP. We don't know how his tractor is set up or the condition-circumstances of what he needs to disk.

Draft control will be key for using these.

 

[KWentling]

I tend not to ignore manufacturers recommendations, or encourage others to. That's one heavy 75 hp tractor you have. I don't think he can make his 8540 weigh that much in any conventional way.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Those looks like some heavy discs. If you don't have a full rack of weights up front I think you are going to be in for some fun that you don't want. Do you have the upgraded 3pt lift? I run an 1800lb brush hog behind my 83hp E series deere and I like to have 8 weights on the nose if I drop the loader off to keep things planted. YMMV.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I tend not to ignore manufacturers recommendations, or encourage others to. That's one heavy 75 hp tractor you have. I don't think he can make his 8540 weigh that much in any conventional way.

I can run with the loader and be at about 12,500lb or take the loader off and run at about 11,500lbs.

As you can see, I doubled up on my front weights, I run 6 wheel weights per side and I have all 4 tires filled. This is what I had to do to be able to get the maximum capabilities out of the tractor.

Our property was burned in a wild fire and there were just to many potential tire disasters waiting to happen if I had gone with Ag tires. So because of less traction with the R4s, I had to add a substantial amount of weight to have maximum traction and not just have the tires spin.

I can just pull our 12' set on flat ground, typically use the D6 because most of our land is rolling hills. The 7'6" set is like there is nothing back there on the flats, but on 2nd pass going up hill at about 9" deep it's all the tractor wants.

Our disks are the old John Deere Kielfer pull disks. No transport wheels, you lessen the angle if you need easier pulling. We always run at maximum angle.

 

[oosik]

OK - speaking strictly regarding weight. My 2009 M6040 crosses the ADM(Archer Daniels Midland) grain scales in Cheney @ 10,100 pounds. With sufficient $$$$ - as I have spent - you too can get that M8540 into the 10K range easily - probably close to 12K.

How do I do it - - heavy grapple on the FEL - rear tires loaded with RimGuard - heavy rear blade on the 3-point. Nothing out of the ordinary. It all adds up.

BTW - I think your tractor would pull any of those disks on the linked site. The 10' 6" unit could be tough in heavy soils.

 

[GeneD14]

I can run with the loader and be at about 12,500lb or take the loader off and run at about 11,500lbs.

As you can see, I doubled up on my front weights, I run 6 wheel weights per side and I have all 4 tires filled. This is what I had to do to be able to get the maximum capabilities out of the tractor.

Our property was burned in a wild fire and there were just to many potential tire disasters waiting to happen if I had gone with Ag tires. So because of less traction with the R4s, I had to add a substantial amount of weight to have maximum traction and not just have the tires spin.

I can just pull our 12' set on flat ground, typically use the D6 because most of our land is rolling hills. The 7'6" set is like there is nothing back there on the flats, but on 2nd pass going up hill at about 9" deep it's all the tractor wants.

Our disks are the old John Deere Kielfer pull disks. No transport wheels, you lessen the angle if you need easier pulling. We always run at maximum angle.

MtnViewRanch,

That is an impressive set-up!

Back in the 1970's I recall my grandfather telling me: "If you put enough weight on a tractor, you can make it do anything!"
I guess he was right.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

MtnViewRanch,

That is an impressive set-up!

Back in the 1970's I recall my grandfather telling me: "If you put enough weight on a tractor, you can make it do anything!"
I guess he was right.

Thanks, I should have gotten a 100+HP tractor, but it just wasn't in the cards at the time. So I did what I did to make what I had work for my circumstances. It's worked for me the last 13 years. Sort of wanting a cab tractor now, getting older and all, but hard to give up on what works andis paid for.

 

[BMan2005]

I can run with the loader and be at about 12,500lb or take the loader off and run at about 11,500lbs.

As you can see, I doubled up on my front weights, I run 6 wheel weights per side and I have all 4 tires filled. This is what I had to do to be able to get the maximum capabilities out of the tractor.

Our property was burned in a wild fire and there were just to many potential tire disasters waiting to happen if I had gone with Ag tires. So because of less traction with the R4s, I had to add a substantial amount of weight to have maximum traction and not just have the tires spin.

I can just pull our 12' set on flat ground, typically use the D6 because most of our land is rolling hills. The 7'6" set is like there is nothing back there on the flats, but on 2nd pass going up hill at about 9" deep it's all the tractor wants.

Our disks are the old John Deere Kielfer pull disks. No transport wheels, you lessen the angle if you need easier pulling. We always run at maximum angle.

Not to get the OP’s post off subject, but I have to say you have that tractor working!!! Very impressive

 

[rusty842]

I have a M9540 and I pull an old Bush Hog 7’ offset disc. It weighs around 3800lbs and has 18 24” disc. I pull it in heavy clay and it is all the tractor wants sometimes. I think the 3 pt hitch would be easier to pull and you will be able to adjust the draft as mentioned earlier.

 

[bswiv]

I appreciate the insights. Decided that I'd be making a mistake so have added weight to the JUNK set of disks I have now. Will finish destroying them and then come up with a better plan.

 

[Overtaxed]

OMG that's a heavy disc! What the heck is it made out of?? I've never seen one so small and so heavy. What's something like that cost?

 

[SPYDERLK]

I can run with the loader and be at about 12,500lb or take the loader off and run at about 11,500lbs.

As you can see, I doubled up on my front weights, I run 6 wheel weights per side and I have all 4 tires filled. This is what I had to do to be able to get the maximum capabilities out of the tractor.

Our property was burned in a wild fire and there were just to many potential tire disasters waiting to happen if I had gone with Ag tires. So because of less traction with the R4s, I had to add a substantial amount of weight to have maximum traction and not just have the tires spin.

I can just pull our 12' set on flat ground, typically use the D6 because most of our land is rolling hills. The 7'6" set is like there is nothing back there on the flats, but on 2nd pass going up hill at about 9" deep it's all the tractor wants.

Our disks are the old John Deere Kielfer pull disks. No transport wheels, you lessen the angle if you need easier pulling. We always run at maximum angle.

Hi Brian. Do you have any problem overheating under sustained high power use?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Hi Brian. Do you have any problem overheating under sustained high power use?

Yes, can and does run hot, typically in summer though. I have done my best to not disk other than when it is cooler and then it seems to be ok although on the high side when going up hills which is 50% of the time. But in my opinion the cooling system is to small for the capabilities of the machine. I don't mow with it, but if I did I'm pretty sure that I would be improving the cooling system.

My understanding is that the MPower machines are no better either. I'm curious if the new 8000 series are any better. Looks to be the newest model of what we have, if they would simply put a 16x16 trans in them it sure would make a difference IMO. I might even consider getting a new machine. A 100HP sure would be nice, :licking: but it needs more gears to go with it.

 

[rusty842]

OMG that's a heavy disc! What the heck is it made out of?? I've never seen one so small and so heavy. What's something like that cost?

If your referring to my post I might have exaggerated at little. My disc weighs 2400-3200 according to the width. A 6’ 16 disc weighs 2380 lbs and a 9’ 24 disc weighs 3230lbs. Mine is a 7’ with 18 24” disc. My guess is that the disc weights around 2500 and I have approximately another 400lbs of weight added. So around 2900lbs.

I tried to attach a photo of the manual but I can’t get it to cooperate.

 

[bswiv]

If your referring to my post I might have exaggerated at little. My disc weighs 2400-3200 according to the width. A 6 16 disc weighs 2380 lbs and a 9 24 disc weighs 3230lbs. Mine is a 7 with 18 24 disc. My guess is that the disc weights around 2500 and I have approximately another 400lbs of weight added. So around 2900lbs.

I tried to attach a photo of the manual but I can稚 get it to cooperate.

Have you got a picture of the disks? The weight you mention is about what the forestry disks are supposed to weigh.

My plan of adding weight to the old disks and the finishing destroying them took a step in the wrong direction today as I bent ANOTHER shaft on it while working a controlled burn we set today.

 

[rusty842]

Have you got a picture of the disks? The weight you mention is about what the forestry disks are supposed to weigh.

My plan of adding weight to the old disks and the finishing destroying them took a step in the wrong direction today as I bent ANOTHER shaft on it while working a controlled burn we set today.

I don’t have one on my phone anymore but I found one like in for sale on Tractor House.

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/17872619/bush-hog-145

Here is a picture from the manual that gives the weight of the disc. There are several variations. I circled the one I have in red.

 

[bswiv]

Thank you.