Advice on fencing type and installation

[EddieWalker]

Looking to fence the area shown below. The main purpose of the fence is to keep vehicles/people off the property and for aesthetics. It is not to keep animals in.

Leaning toward a 3 rail wood fence using 4x4 posts and PT wood.

If I did 8' spacing

How important is aesthetics? If you feel that the appearance of the fence is important, and you like the look of wood, then there is nothing wrong with going with pressure treated wood. If done properly, it will last as long as any other fence. The biggest issue with wood is water sitting at ground level. You absolutely have to get water to drain away from the post. If using concrete, you have to have it come up higher then the dirt around it, and slope away. If back filling with dirt, you need to come back in a few months and add more dirt to get a proper slope, and then again in a year. Every post that rots away, does so because over time the soil around that post settles and creates a low spot that holds water.

The government changed how wood is treated and as a result, 4x4's are pretty much junk because they twist and warp so badly. 4x6's do a little better, and 6x6's are the most consistent at staying straight. Round wood posts are even better at staying straight, but a lot harder to attach railings too.

If you space your posts 8 feet apart, you need to buy 2x6's that are 16 feet long and attach them to three posts. Anything smaller or shorter will sag on you.

An alternative might be to set your posts and install rope or chain across the top to vehicles out.

As mentioned, barbed wire is very cost effective, but not overly attractive. Smooth high tensile wire is easier to install and cheaper, but also easier to cut and harder to see.

 

[GLyford]

What about the white tape they use for horse fence? It makes an easy to see barrier and is a little more aesthetic than plain wire, but less expensive than a board fence. It has tension wires in it, and while often used with electric, there are types for use without. It looks like there are hangers for use with wood, vinyl and metal posts...

 

[Atchuuu]

I called a fence company today and asked for an estimate. They asked if I wanted PVC and I told them I didn't think that was in the budget. I was told that it was going to be about the same price as wood. They said wood prices have been high and much of the wood is "junk". She said the PVC does have some issue with mildew if directly under trees but other than that they have had very good success with it.

They are going to send me an estimate for both. Will post the information when received.

 

[Diggin It]

Yeah, but that can be a quick wash-off with a pressure washer mounted on a trailer. Wood can get mold and mildew under the same conditions, but suffers a worse fate as a result and is harder to keep clean.

 

[EddieWalker]

I have a little over 1,300 feet of white vinyl three rail fence that I wish I had never bought. Before owning my land, I was a huge fan of it from seeing it on other peoples land. It wasn't hard to install, but it was a lot of money to buy it.

It does look nice, but after having it for a dozen years, there are things about it that I really don't like. First, it's weak. While mowing the lawn, small rocks will go right through it that get sucked up by the lawn mower. This didn't happen at first, but over time, it becomes brittle. Not that it will break if you touch it or even tap on it, but if anything hits it sharply, it breaks.

On the sunny side, it remains fairly clean looking. On the shade side, algea grows on it. You can clean it off fairly easily with soap and water with a little bleach mixed in, but it is very time consuming.

Not having animals at the time, and not really planning on it, when my wife and I did decide to get some, the fence proved to be worthless. I've had to add three rows of electric hot wires to it between each opening to keep them in, to keep them from scratching and leaning on it, and to keep predators out. The hot wire has made a huge difference.

If I was to do it again, I would just install wire net fencing. That is what I will be installing all the way around my place. I want to keep hogs and coyotes out as much as I want to keep my goats and horses in.

Electric Fence, High Tensile Fencing Supplies has a lot of options on fencing. Prices are great on some things, not so good on others. It pays to shop around, but use them as a starting point.

 

[ddbackhoe]

I like the idea of barbed wire for ease of maintenance and low cost. The high maintenance rules out the hedges and the aesthetics I seek rule out barbed wire. I will be using wire along the sides though.

If not PT lumber what will hold up?

Horse rail (RAMM fence, etc.) works pretty well. It does require tensioning about once a year.
https://kencove.com/fence/Horserail_product.php

Personally, I like the Hotcote wire. comes in white, brown or black and can be electrified if you choose to.
https://kencove.com/fence/Hotcote+(Electric)_detail_WSWH.php

Unless it's a pedestrian gate, I use 14 ft. or larger gates.

 

[Diggin It]

^^ Thing is, he's using this as a road facing front yard decorative fence and he doesn't think wire looks right. I get that even though it wouldn't be a factor for me.

but after having it for a dozen years, there are things about it that I really don't like. First, it's weak. While mowing the lawn, small rocks will go right through it that get sucked up by the lawn mower. This didn't happen at first, but over time, it becomes brittle

Some plastics age better than others and technology may have changed in that 12 years so that the newer stuff is better in UV resistance. That would be a question for the fence company.

 

[John Fitzgerald]

Have you considered Chain link fence? Properly installed, it will easily last 40 years with very little maintenance.

 

[oosik]

I would go with four strand barbed wire fence. Easy to install - low maintenance - keeps people and animals OUT. I installed a mile and a half of four strand barbed wire fence around my property in '82. Still standing straight, tight and true - thirty seven years later. Mile and a half took - 675 T-133 posts and 26 rolls of barbed wire. Cost in '82 was right around $4750. Wire was about $42/roll posts were $5.25 because I bought a pallet of 500 plus 175 more - all at one shot.

Every T-133 was pounded in with a 45 pound homemade manual pounder.

 

[newbury]

<snip>

The government changed how wood is treated and as a result, 4x4's are pretty much junk because they twist and warp so badly. 4x6's do a little better, and 6x6's are the most consistent at staying straight. Round wood posts are even better at staying straight, but a lot harder to attach railings too.
<snip>.

There is also the problem with the age of the posts when cut. In this age of enhanced tree genetics I've been seeing posts with really thick growth rings. They fall apart much quicker.