Bridge I-Beam cutting.

   / Bridge I-Beam cutting. #31  
I think you may be misinterpreting the use of the term "ramp".
The intent of my "ramp" comment was that you might, prepare a longer access ramp, using fill, or rock and fill.
Seems like two feet more access/approach ramp on each side would do the job.

Personally I liked the OP’s Evel Knievel approach. Did lots of that in my younger tractor days.
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting. #32  
OP here. I will have to figure out what a zip cutter is, never heard of.

Zip cut is the name Walter Surface Technologies uses to market their abrasive cutting discs.
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting. #33  
Anyone have recommendations on 4-1/2in diamond abrasive discs? Always used regular abrasive discs but thinking of switching over. Seems some think they are safer? I have broke a couple and don't want to experience it again.
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting.
  • Thread Starter
#34  
I think you may be misinterpreting the use of the term "ramp".
The intent of my "ramp" comment was that you might, prepare a longer access ramp, using fill, or rock and fill.
Seems like two feet more access/approach ramp on each side would do the job.
Thanks,
I think I got it figured out..
Tractor Jump 2.jpg

Actually, the bank is not real hard pan material and is susceptible to erosion. I planned on concreting an anchored 10'x3' bed for the lead edge of the I-beams.

The other end will just be laying on the flat ground for now. Once I get the steel in place and floor boards down, then I can drive across with fill to build up an approach. As of right now, there is no way to do anything on the other side, in fact I am still trying to figure out how to place the whole structure.

I might start another thread on the actual placement of beams, welding it together and the wood floor and railings.
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting. #35  
I don't like the diamond wheels.

I like 5" cut discs...but get .045 and not 1/16. They cut faster. And food knes last awhile.

Sure the diamond last longer, but in my experience, after just a few cuts they are slower, and they are noisy
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting. #36  
Thanks,
I think I got it figured out..
View attachment 579551

Actually, the bank is not real hard pan material and is susceptible to erosion. I planned on concreting an anchored 10'x3' bed for the lead edge of the I-beams.

The other end will just be laying on the flat ground for now. Once I get the steel in place and floor boards down, then I can drive across with fill to build up an approach. As of right now, there is no way to do anything on the other side, in fact I am still trying to figure out how to place the whole structure.

I might start another thread on the actual placement of beams, welding it together and the wood floor and railings.

When placing your spliced beams consider alternating the placement of the spliced ends.
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting. #37  
I have had good luck cutting through a 20in or so I beam with a sawzaw. Was a decently straight cut and actually pretty fast with a good blade
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting. #38  
I also use reciprocating saws with metal cutting blades sometimes.

Here they are with tree cutting blades:

P5100002.JPG
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting.
  • Thread Starter
#39  
When placing your spliced beams consider alternating the placement of the spliced ends.

Great idea. I got all 6 cut off yesterday and today. I went through maybe 20 1/16" discs and half a dozen .45 inch discs. Not bad at all. Some lasted a quite a while and some lasted about 2 seconds, depending if I snagged something/
 
   / Bridge I-Beam cutting. #40  
Deere Dude

if not already suggested saw-all with 12 inch metal cutting blade.
 

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