branson 4720h cleaning radiator

[Slowpoke Slim]

Eric,

I'm don't think I'd want to come all the way forward, just to double back and go all the way back again. I don't do a whole lot of rough country work with my tractor, but I do push and move quite a bit of snow in winter. I do regularly go through snow deeper than my tractor clearance, and don't think dragging an exhaust through snow would be a good plan if I can help it. One of the other reasons I was thinking if I could keep the exhaust run relatively short, and go to a stack from the back of the engine, then I'd really have nothing down there (at least on the exhaust) to drag through snow, or drag through a brush pile or whatever. Still kind of thinking the whole thing over. And I was thinking of some form of straight through muffler as part of the stack, wrapped in a heat shield similar to Lou's pics. With the first way I was thinking of running it, with really 2 separate 180 degree bends in it, there would be very little demand for a quiet muffler. Especially if I come all the way up to the top, and even slightly above, the top of the cab corner. If I remember right from my old fabbing days, 2 90 degree bends will cancel out most exhaust echo, and really tone down the noise.

I know without a doubt my soot cooker is coming off. I'm just thinking of how I want it to be once that's done, and this seems like a good time to reroute the exhaust to a different path than where it is now.

Lou,

Thanks for the pics. As always, you are a great resource to the rest of us Branson owners. Looks like yours goes, exhaust manifold>>turbo>>muffler>>90 degree>>90 degree>>up the stack? I don't think my smaller chassis has enough room to do everything the way yours is laid out. But now I'm thinking maybe 2 90's similar to yours, one out of the manifold (mine exits up) to bend it horizontal, and one to go up the stack could work, if I have enough room between my cab and my loader. I'll have to look at that again. The thought of 2 separate 180 degree turns doesn't sound good to me, but it would let me get the pipe underneath the loader entirely so that I can make the bend to go out to the corner of the cab. I may have to do a 180 out of the manifold to clear the hood and the loader, then 2 separate 90's to go horizontal and back, then up the cab corner.

 

[Cougsfan]

What would you do for a muffler? Put it on the stack, or do without?

How about cutting the tail pipe where it comes out of the engine compartment by the front wheel and running a low exhaust along the bottom of the tractor and out the back, like a truck? You woudn't want to do that if you run a stationary pto implement like a chipper as you'd be breathing exhaust, but if you're not doing that it might be an option.

I have heard of people putting a Tractor Supply muffler where the soot burner is. If you have a cab, coming out the back might be a bad idea as you may get fumes in the cab if the rear window is open. Running it under to the back looks a little problematic too as it doesn't appear it would be that easy to tuck it in enough to eliminate any chance of smashing it flat. I agree that up over the top as Lou's machine has would be the ideal exhaust routing. You would have to make provisions to prevent it from becoming a water trap.

 

[ericm979]

On my 3725 there's two big braces under the tractor that run from the rear axle to the loader mount. They're the lowest thing on the frame. If I was going to make a skid plate it'd be level with those braces. I think one could tuck an exhaust pipe up so it would not extend lower than the braces.

But I agree that running it up above the cab would be better, if it's possible.

 

[LouNY]

I have heard of people putting a Tractor Supply muffler where the soot burner is. If you have a cab, coming out the back might be a bad idea as you may get fumes in the cab if the rear window is open. Running it under to the back looks a little problematic too as it doesn't appear it would be that easy to tuck it in enough to eliminate any chance of smashing it flat. I agree that up over the top as Lou's machine has would be the ideal exhaust routing. You would have to make provisions to prevent it from becoming a water trap.

I see that I didn't get a good picture of the top of my exhaust stack, it is bent out slightly away from the cab and cut of vertically leaving an oval opening, it does catch some snow and rain. I have wondered some times if it would get enough in to cause problems, so far it hasn't. It has blown out some sooty water a few times and occasionally a puff of snow when she starts. It's not setup for a rain flapper like the straight up pipes are.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

If I ended up with a vertical stack, I would definitely put a flapper on top of the exit pipe. Hopefully that would keep most everything out of the pipe. Looked at it a bit more this morning. Looks like I'd have to come out of the manifold, and bend back down 180 degrees to drop below the bottom edge of the hood, then make the turn to come out the side, back to the cab, around the loader mount (between the loader and the cab glass), and then up the corner. Should be able to make up some kind of mounting brackets to come off the side of the vertical grab handle, and space it off enough I can grab the handle without getting burned by the stack. I'd do some kind of heat shield similar to Lou's factory screen.

 

[Coyote machine]

FWIW, to get your radiator clean you could buy the kit I reference here: Radiator Genie - LOCKNLUBE

I haven't used it, but I do have some of their grease gun fittings for locking to hand held guns, and they work great.
This kit would allow you to use either air or water to clean your radiator, and would save all the efforts suggested for modding your exhaust.

Additionally, if your tractor is under warranty I would not mod your exhaust until out of warranty. 1st because the manufacturer could claim your mod is the cause of any issues you might claim during warranty. 2nd because you could end up with engine problems, if for instance you do two 90's or 2 180's in the piping. I'm not a backpressure exhaust specialist, but I know for things like dryer ducting adding 1 elbow is the equivalent of 10 liner feet of the same diameter pipe. If you create too much backpressure it could adversely affect your driveability/engine function.

Also the EPA specifies the soot can, and removing it could be a federal offense, and punishments for removal could be very stiff and possibly a large fine too.

I can't say about the EPA's role in enforcement, but I'd want to know before modding a recently mandated final Tier 4 system.

Simplest is usually best practice, from my experience in engineering and auto shop ownership/management for over ten years on foreign autos exclusively.

Think it out and decide, but either way I'd get the kit I linked to.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

FWIW, to get your radiator clean you could buy the kit I reference here: Radiator Genie - LOCKNLUBE

I haven't used it, but I do have some of their grease gun fittings for locking to hand held guns, and they work great.
This kit would allow you to use either air or water to clean your radiator, and would save all the efforts suggested for modding your exhaust.

Additionally, if your tractor is under warranty I would not mod your exhaust until out of warranty. 1st because the manufacturer could claim your mod is the cause of any issues you might claim during warranty. 2nd because you could end up with engine problems, if for instance you do two 90's or 2 180's in the piping. I'm not a backpressure exhaust specialist, but I know for things like dryer ducting adding 1 elbow is the equivalent of 10 liner feet of the same diameter pipe. If you create too much backpressure it could adversely affect your driveability/engine function.

Also the EPA specifies the soot can, and removing it could be a federal offense, and punishments for removal could be very stiff and possibly a large fine too.

I can't say about the EPA's role in enforcement, but I'd want to know before modding a recently mandated final Tier 4 system.

Simplest is usually best practice, from my experience in engineering and auto shop ownership/management for over ten years on foreign autos exclusively.

Think it out and decide, but either way I'd get the kit I linked to.

I have the same kit with an air wand and a water wand. I use the air wand to blow my radiator and coolers clear from the back side. No way would I ever consider using the water wand in those tight finned cores. You'd make a muddy, gummy mess that would probably turn to concrete when it dried. But using the air wand on LOW psi, works perfectly.

Not really worried about back pressure on a normally aspirated small displacement diesel engine. I'm *quite sure* that any amount of bends and pipe will be *infinitely* free-er breathing that that @#$%! soot cooker.

To each their own when it comes to "modding". But I've already had enough of the filter on mine. Oh yeah, it's coming off. The only thing left to consider is if I reroute the exhaust pipe somewhere else, or leave it routed as stock. I'd like to reroute it if it's doable. And the EPA mandates a tractor manufacturer can't SELL new tractors without this garbage on them. It says NOTHING about tractor owners keeping it in place.

I'll keep all the parts that come off. That way if I ever trade it or sell it, the "new owner" can decide if they want to put that garbage back on or not. Once its off, I'll never put it back on, I promise you that.

To each their own on "modding" I guess.

 

[Coyote machine]

I have the same kit with an air wand and a water wand. I use the air wand to blow my radiator and coolers clear from the back side. No way would I ever consider using the water wand in those tight finned cores. You'd make a muddy, gummy mess that would probably turn to concrete when it dried. But using the air wand on LOW psi, works perfectly.

Not really worried about back pressure on a normally aspirated small displacement diesel engine. I'm *quite sure* that any amount of bends and pipe will be *infinitely* free-er breathing that that @#$%! soot cooker.

To each their own when it comes to "modding". But I've already had enough of the filter on mine. Oh yeah, it's coming off. The only thing left to consider is if I reroute the exhaust pipe somewhere else, or leave it routed as stock. I'd like to reroute it if it's doable. And the EPA mandates a tractor manufacturer can't SELL new tractors without this garbage on them. It says NOTHING about tractor owners keeping it in place.

I'll keep all the parts that come off. That way if I ever trade it or sell it, the "new owner" can decide if they want to put that garbage back on or not. Once its off, I'll never put it back on, I promise you that.

To each their own on "modding" I guess.

You're missing that the machine has to remain in compliance during warranty for any dealer AND the tractor manufacturer to honor one's warranty. Once removed during the warranty time the manufacturer is under no obligation to honor, and in fact they would be violating federal law if they did any work related to the engine function(s) on a modified system with any part of the mandated system removed, regardless of who did the removal.

Mod away and brag about it on TBN all you want. Ignore the risks at your own peril. Your warranty papers should describe the penalties for EPA required items and the consequences of removing them. Can, designed into engine. Mods by backyard shade tree mechanics, not so much. It's your machine, do what you want...

 

[ptsg]

Every thread Coyote gets into, he has to make it controversial and so dramatic... It his tractor, he does whatever he wants to it.

Same tractors are sold in EU without any of that DPF crap and a regular muffler in it's place. They breathe so much better without being choked. I'm sure we all know that this DPF crap it's just a way for the big boys to make easy money. It just kills engines in no time and just makes us burn a lot more fuel for nothing. There is no point on running wide open to keep the DPF clean and on top of that it will still dump all the crap off during regen.

Back pressure ain't really an issue. Again, they sell the same engine with turbo and DPF so the back pressure will be even higher and it still is not a problem. By removing the DPF, it just makes it better.

Slowpoke Slim, please share some pictures with us whenever you do the mods. I have some pictures of the exhaust on my F36 (3515) with the same A1700 engine but without the DPF, just ask if you need it.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

You're missing that the machine has to remain in compliance during warranty for any dealer AND the tractor manufacturer to honor one's warranty. Once removed during the warranty time the manufacturer is under no obligation to honor, and in fact they would be violating federal law if they did any work related to the engine function(s) on a modified system with any part of the mandated system removed, regardless of who did the removal.

Mod away and brag about it on TBN all you want. Ignore the risks at your own peril. Your warranty papers should describe the penalties for EPA required items and the consequences of removing them. Can, designed into engine. Mods by backyard shade tree mechanics, not so much. It's your machine, do what you want...

And you're missing the point that I've ALREADY talked to my dealer about this. He's told me point blank that it will make NO difference in my warranty coverage. And he's the one that would be doing any warranty work on my tractor. So I'll take his word over yours. Any day.

As ptsg stated (correctly), they sell this EXACT same tractor in other countries with the only difference being there is a muffler where the U.S. version's soot cooker goes. There is a soot cooker, and a data logger on the U.S. version. By removing only those 2 things, you eliminate the entire "emissions system" on these models. No other changes or "mods" are needed. There is NO computer system, nothing to "hack", no fuel system changes need to be made. Several members here have already done this. Each one has stated it made a performance gain by removing.

There is no risk.