I would... estimates can cost hundreds alone.. if he can find a side mechanic that will do it dirt cheap (highly doubt) then maybe its worth it.. but the tractor fixed is only gona sell for 6-7k so anything over 1-2k is hard to justify.. and no one knows if just replacing the few main wore parts wont lead to further problems in a year or two from the rest of the parts that took minor damage while this happened... just my opinion
Clunking in front axle?
- Thread starter patchfarm
- Start date
- Views: 50415
I would... estimates can cost hundreds alone.. if he can find a side mechanic that will do it dirt cheap (highly doubt) then maybe its worth it.. but the tractor fixed is only gona sell for 6-7k so anything over 1-2k is hard to justify.. and no one knows if just replacing the few main wore parts wont lead to further problems in a year or two from the rest of the parts that took minor damage while this happened... just my opinion
RNeumann
Elite Member
Yukon Gear & Axle (YT P22) Carrier Bearing Puller Works with an impact gun to safely & easliy remove carrrier bearings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078U9JPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Yv-HCb4CFS3D3
Well I guess his patent ran out! This is the one I have.....at least what it looks like.
Take a second to read the top review! Worth a laugh..... slick as a....... let’s just say the guy liked it!
Well I guess his patent ran out! This is the one I have.....at least what it looks like.
Take a second to read the top review! Worth a laugh..... slick as a....... let’s just say the guy liked it!
radios1
Elite Member
I think they are overcharging for this, I think they could make a nice profit at $100.
RNeumann
Elite Member
Get to work!
PILOON
Super Star Member
Yep, happened to me, I shopped and bought a ring and pinion set for my Mitsubishi and DIY rebuilt it.
In my case the 8 bolts that fastened the ring all sheared off probably due to poor torquing or defective locking tabs.
The 8 bolt heads were all sheered off and lay in the case like nice round bolls from being mangled.
When I assembled I used graded bolts with drilled heads and lock wired them as well as used thread 'lock tight'.
To this day I believe that my problem was a 'quality control' issue but being an older used tractor I had no possibility of warranty claim.
That happened at about 700 hours and I have put an additional 800 since my DIY repair so all is fine.
All in all I recall that labor was somewhat in the order of 3-4 hours.
LOL nothing compared to probably 100 or so searching and shopping.
As to shopping I got quotations ranging from $400 to $1200. for the parts.
The higher price quotes all wanted CASH up front coupled with long delivery times while the lowest bid arrived within 4 days at my door and included custom clearance and they took my Visa over the phone.
The worst was down time during my shopping.
Also that crown and pinion incident is what found TBN for me and I have been a faithful follower ever since.
skipmarcy
Veteran Member
As I mentioned already, you can buy the whole, assembled front diff. new for the neighborhood of $700 - is that worth trashing the whole tractor !!?? This diff comes completely out of the housing. You will need to remove the housing in order to get it thoroughly cleaned before putting the new diff in. You'll have to stand it up and roll it around some to clean it with solvent inside to get all the metal out or the new parts will be toast soon.
The outdrives will have to be partially disassembled at least to clean thoroughly and/or make repairs but even if they need repairs it won't take a mortgage to pay for it.
The outdrives will have to be partially disassembled at least to clean thoroughly and/or make repairs but even if they need repairs it won't take a mortgage to pay for it.
grm61
Platinum Member
I suppose I probably missed something browsing this post...Breakage in the diff? or bevel gears in the finals ?
What kind of lube was in it.?
FWTIW., .factor in the old guy thing, My Dk45se hst cab calls for either factory fill tractor fluid..hydraulic oil... or 80/90 in the front diff and finals.
Being and old guy who has broken stuff in his younger years, I believe that 80/90, preferably synthetic is much better in a a high pressure application were there is binding...4wd where the front end has traction turning.... offers some cushion to beveled gears.
On my 50hr service I put Shaffers 80/90 in the front diff and finals.
I am not an oil guy ...but they don't put hyd oil in big horsepower car, or light or heavy truck diffs
What kind of lube was in it.?
FWTIW., .factor in the old guy thing, My Dk45se hst cab calls for either factory fill tractor fluid..hydraulic oil... or 80/90 in the front diff and finals.
Being and old guy who has broken stuff in his younger years, I believe that 80/90, preferably synthetic is much better in a a high pressure application were there is binding...4wd where the front end has traction turning.... offers some cushion to beveled gears.
On my 50hr service I put Shaffers 80/90 in the front diff and finals.
I am not an oil guy ...but they don't put hyd oil in big horsepower car, or light or heavy truck diffs
RNeumann
Elite Member
Hydraulic fluid in low temps and gear oil in warmer temps. The front diff and finals live a very easy life from a lubrication standpoint.
radios1
Elite Member
those bolts were junk bolts, they are much cheaper than quality bolts!. btw, I have yet to find a fastener made in China that is not junk!. I'm sure some other Countries are the same way.
