Septic Alarm went off

[check]

I guess, as for your question. One would have to know what kind of motor it is. Most motors though, would show some resistance. I am not a motor expert. It's complicated! There are often start windings that are centrifugally operated by a switch which can stick.

You said your AC cord was open? So no power?

Generally, I'm thinking:

Stuck impeller, bad bearing, resulting in tripped overload device or thermal shutdown. Maybe fried motor.

Bad Start or run capacitor.

Flaky float Switch.

Stuck internal motor start switch. Probably would trip Overcurrent device.

IT, remember the alarm is a completely separate thing from the pump (which seems to be working fine). It is just a float switch in the effluent tank, and the alarm box indoors. And the float switch circuit was open, meaning the float is not high enough to close the float switch. And that is just what we want. So, this "open" confirms that the float is not high enough to be in an alarm condition, and thus is NOT the problem. See my other posts, but the problem is inside the alarm box, where the alarm is going on even though the float switch is open. There is some sort of loose connection or a short somewhere, causing power to get the the buzzer (and light) even though the float switch is in the correct, "all is good", open position.

 

[PILOON]

Cheap alarm switch:

Simply purchase a pump float switch (the kind that uses a plastic float).
THe float contains a mercury contact switch that is capable of a fair amperage.
Rig the float to make contact at whatever level you want.

You can then add an indicator light, siren bell or whatever warning U want.

Best part is the float switch is in the $25-$35 range.

 

[MossRoad]

OK, went up and did a few tests this weekend. The two switches (one for "Test" and one for "Silence" both showed the correct impedence when using the switches. And now the warning buzzer seems to work intermittently when all switches are off/open. (Actually, it kind of hums like it wants to come on but can't.)

And Boshart was not open this weekend, so I will have to call tomorrow. Seems like a lot of money for a box with 2 switches, a lite, and a buzzer! ($173)

Draw yourself a schematic.

If the buzzer is buzzing when both switches are turned off/open, then there's a short somewhere that's providing power to the buzzer. If the short isn't one of the switches (bad switch), then it's somewhere down the line outside of the box.

Draw yourself a schematic.

 

[check]

Cheap alarm switch:

Simply purchase a pump float switch (the kind that uses a plastic float).
THe float contains a mercury contact switch that is capable of a fair amperage.
Rig the float to make contact at whatever level you want.

You can then add an indicator light, siren bell or whatever warning U want.

Best part is the float switch is in the $25-$35 range.

Don’t need a float switch, Bob. The existing one is fine. The problem is with one of the switches inside the control box giving power to the buzzer when it is not supposed to.

 

[check]

Draw yourself a schematic.

If the buzzer is buzzing when both switches are turned off/open, then there's a short somewhere that's providing power to the buzzer. If the short isn't one of the switches (bad switch), then it's somewhere down the line outside of the box.

Draw yourself a schematic.

Yup. Most likely one of the switches. One has a post that wiggles a bit, so that is the suspect.

No schematic necessary, however. It’s just two switches, a light, and a buzzer. It might not be that obvious in the photo, but I can tell where every wire goes, no problem. Here it is again.

 

[MossRoad]

Yup. Most likely one of the switches. One has a post that wiggles a bit, so that is the suspect.

No schematic necessary, however. It’s just two switches, a light, and a buzzer. It might not be that obvious in the photo, but I can tell where every wire goes, no problem. Here it is again.

View attachment 597419View attachment 597420

I saw your pictures the other day and sketched out a schematic yesterday afternoon. Either I've drawn it wrong, or it makes no sense to me, or the center pole on the back of the switches are not the center poles electrically. When it's in the silent position, there's no complete circuit to the buzzer. When it's in the alarm/reset position, both sides of the buzzer are shorted together through the lamp, and there's no complete circuit anyway, unless the test button is activated.



Hopefully, I've just drawn it incorrectly.

 

[grsthegreat]

you could always update it

https://www.ebay.com/p/Tank-Alert-1...US-101-01H/1834319277?iid=323627116448&chn=ps

$75.00 eba

 

[check]

you could always update it

https://www.ebay.com/p/Tank-Alert-1...US-101-01H/1834319277?iid=323627116448&chn=ps

$75.00 eba

Hey, grs - thanks! Will have to check it out.

 

[check]

I saw your pictures the other day and sketched out a schematic yesterday afternoon. Either I've drawn it wrong, or it makes no sense to me, or the center pole on the back of the switches are not the center poles electrically. When it's in the silent position, there's no complete circuit to the buzzer. When it's in the alarm/reset position, both sides of the buzzer are shorted together through the lamp, and there's no complete circuit anyway, unless the test button is activated.

View attachment 597440

Hopefully, I've just drawn it incorrectly.

Moss, you have drawn it correctly. The two wires going out to the left are going to the float switch, and so as long as the “silence” switch is set to “alarm” (which it is not in your diagram), the system is armed and ready to go in as soon as the float switch is activated.

The problem, of course, is that one of those internal switches in your diagram does not seem to be working properly. I did check both switches for continuity, and they are as expected. Resistance is infinite when they’re open, and less than one Ohm when they’re closed.

When I had another look at it this weekend, the buzzer would hum like it wanted to go off, but did not always work its way into a full buzzer mode. However, if I activated the test switch, the buzzer would come right on full.

I think I may be dealing with some sort of intermittent electrical short, so I’m going to find a couple more switches and see if they will do the trick.

 

[check]

Hey, grs - thanks! Will have to check it out.

Grs, I checked it out, and with The exchange rate and all the extra fees, it comes to $135!

But it is a possibility if the Canadian company (boshart.com) that made my original alarm does not work out.

Will keep you posted!