Kioti LK3054 Flashing Voltage Dash Lamp

[retiredfarmer]

Dave, will do.
Thx,
RF

 

[K5lwq]

After a few test, it appears my problem will be on the positive side of the system. I show a good ground connection but have a fluctuating voltage drop on the positive side. My thought is one of the wires is breaking down. It is trying to rain here so I am not able to determine which wire is the issue or if it is just a connection issue.

Funny thing is after I did my test the light has stopped flashing. :laughing:

 

[retiredfarmer]

K5,
Thx for the update.
RF

 

[Dave M7040]

Dave,
The parts manual I have does not show a diode in-line or a relay. I am looking for a Shop Manual for the tractor now though.
RF

Kioti is a hard tractor to find free WSM's for.

Although I do not have a Kioti, I have bought two WSM from this on line site in order to help people.
I found the materials of excellent quality, not fuzzy photocopied pages.

The cost is $9.99 and you get an immediate download.
If you are unhappy with what you get they say they will refund the money.

Kioti LK30 Tractor Service Manual PDF Download

DENSO is a major world wide manufacturer of vehicle electrical components. It was formerly Nippondenso and owned by Toyota.

Now you find their products in, for example, a Buick where previously it was all Delco.

This is a link to one of their on line documents. The tests they suggest are easy if you have a voltmeter. Google DENSO troubleshooting and you will find other material.

http://densoautoparts.com/Portals/D...ENSO charging system troubleshooting tips.pdf

Dave M7040

 

[retiredfarmer]

Dave,
Thx.
RF

 

[retiredfarmer]

Could it be that the alternator does not "self energize" until 1900 RPMs? I seem to remember from replacing generators with GM 10SI alternators on old tractors that you needed to run a wire to energize the field otherwise it would not start charging until about 2000 RPMs. I am starting to wonder if there is an energizing wire from the ignition that is not doing it's job any longer.

I still need to complete the tests between the alternator and regulator for voltage. I have not forgotten about these. I have not had the time to get to them yet. I appreciate everyone's input and will post these results when I do the tests.

RF

 

[Kioti Paul]

Generators "self energized" in order to close the "reverse voltage" relay; which was the only way to keep the generator from "running as an electric motor" when the battery voltage was higher than the generator voltage. They used a 'mechanical' rectifier (ie the commutator) to convert AC to DC, and there was no (convenient) way to prevent the battery from draining through the generator once the engine was shut off. Their armature was a heavy 'block' of steel, which would retain residual magnetism, and when spun fast enough would induce enough voltage into the field windings to close the relay.

Alternators use solid state rectifiers (diodes) which electronically prevent "backfeed". Their field windings are what spin, and they are light enough that they will not impart significant voltage into the armature windings, which is a moot point as there is no need for a "reverse voltage" relay anyway. They require an external source of voltage (battery / jumper cables) in order to begin charging. It does not need 12 volts, just 2 or 3 volts to begin charging.

Typically, alternators can develop somewhere around 1/3 of their rated amperage at idle, and reach full amperage around 1,200 / 1,500 (engine) RPM.

Besides, I thought your problem was that it was overcharging??? (15.36 volts)

 

[retiredfarmer]

The original problem was the voltage dash lamp blinking, and was subsequently found to stop blinking when the RPMs were raised above 1900.

RF

 

[retiredfarmer]

Voltage on the battery with lights on at 1500RPM = 14.36V.

Now, with the multimeter set to VDC 200m red lead on alternator housing and black on regulator housing bolt to tractor the reading fluctuates between 1.0 to 3.0. On the 20V setting the reading stays at 0.

I知 not sure what the difference is btn the 200m and 20V setting.

RF

 

[Dave M7040]

Voltage on the battery with lights on at 1500RPM = 14.36V.

Now, with the multimeter set to VDC 200m red lead on alternator housing and black on regulator housing bolt to tractor the reading fluctuates between 1.0 to 3.0. On the 20V setting the reading stays at 0.

I知 not sure what the difference is btn the 200m and 20V setting.

RF

I assume your multimeter looks like this one.

For your purposed, you should only be using the 20V setting.

The other settings are for tiny fractions of a volt as used in electronics.
Using those settings will just confuse you, Likely, if on those millivolt settings, you hold one lead in a hand and touch the other to your foot you will get a reading.

The Zero reading on the 20 volt scale is good news for the voltage drop test you are doing.

Dave M7040