Welding Rod Recommendation

[Gary Fowler]

Many claim that 6010 and 6011 rods are great for welding on painted/rusty parts. Truth is, all that gunk should be removed prior to welding with any rod even if it does weld thru it. Welding on dirty steel makes for weak welds regardless of the rod used.

I use very little 60xx rods, mostly for tack welding or running a root pass when I want a full penetration weld where only one side is accessible. I will use 6010 (DC current) for first pass on any area that I cant clean properly due to confined area then follow it with 7018.

E-7018 rod can be used for plain carbon steel, cast steel and even stainless steel if you dont need the rust proof quality in the weld. It also works for heavy cast iron but not so well with light weight cast iron structures since they tend to crack due to differences in contraction rates.
E-7018 is my go to rod for almost all my welding because it produces a much more malleable weld (meaning it will bend without breaking), several thousand pounds per square inch stronger than 60xx rods, flux easier to remove if welded at correct amps, much less sparking and popping and a more pleasing appearance of the weld.
The only con to its use is: It does require a cleaner surface and mostly wind free and for sure free from any moisture compared to the 6010.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I am just a back yard welder and agree with the 7018 on DC choice. Makes nice welds with good penetration and strength. It can be harder to restart though. I just put a used rod aside and start with a new rod when I star a new bead. When I get a half dozen or so used rods I stop and clean the ends up with a file so they look like new rods. That way they also start like new rods.

gg

 

[k0ua]

I am just a back yard welder and agree with the 7018 on DC choice. Makes nice welds with good penetration and strength. It can be harder to restart though. I just put a used rod aside and start with a new rod when I star a new bead. When I get a half dozen or so used rods I stop and clean the ends up with a file so they look like new rods. That way they also start like new rods.

gg

Just break the "corn" off of the end of the rod covering the end of the electrode with your thumb before you re-strike. It is quick and easy and it works.

 

[Billrog]

I think Gary covered the subject very well .

 

[Gordon Gould]

Just break the "corn" off of the end of the rod covering the end of the electrode with your thumb before you re-strike. It is quick and easy and it works.

I have tried all those "just do" methods I have seen like use a pair of small diagonal cutters, quick swipe it with a file, bang the rod on the concrete floor or ungrounded piece of steel, flick off the glass with your thumb, bang it down on the restart, ..... I have no doubt they work for other people but for me they only work some of the time. I can't find a consistent method. So to be able to keep going along smoothly, which for me is a key to good welds and more enjoyment, without sticking a rod then breaking off half the flux getting it unstuck and throwing the rod away I put used rods aside and clean up a bunch with a file at a good stopping point. I have found using higher currant makes any method work good but when I have to turn it down restarts w/o sticking require a rod end like a new rod. Just me I guess.

gg

 

[Deere Dude]

I will take 7014 over any of them. Easy to start and looks nice too. Never did much with 6011 but may try a box.

 

[LD1]

While I am in the camp of 7018 rod being an easy rod (for me) to run. I am also not so naive to know that it isn't easy for everyone. And 7014 is far easier to weld with for someone less experienced or a lesser equipped machine that lacks all sorts of fancy arc control settings.

A GOOD 7014 bead is far superior in strength to a POOR 7018 bead.

My suggestion....get a SMALL amount of 7014 and 7018. Do some practice. Perhaps even take some scraps and do a bit of destructive testing after practicing. Then make the decision as to what you want to used based on YOUR PERSONAL results with both.

But at the end of the day, a good weld with ANY of the common rod #'s will hold just find. So its more important to find what you can weld good with.....rather than picking an unfamiliar rod because someone on the internet said it was better

 

[k0ua]

But at the end of the day, a good weld with ANY of the common rod #'s will hold just find. So its more important to find what you can weld good with.....rather than picking an unfamiliar rod because someone on the internet said it was better

Well, that is a good point. I use 7014 to fill holes in things. It is Extremely easy to start and run and makes pretty beads and fills holes better than anything. But for strength and ductility I will choose a 7018 every time. Even though on paper the 7014 is just as strong, I don't think testing bears that out. But if you want to start running pretty beads really quickly as you are on the learning curve, 7014 is your "huckleberry". I still keep a supply of it and a supply of 6011 adn 7018, I even have some 6013, which is my least favorite rod, though I do use the really small stuff for tackup on sheet metal.

 

[LD1]

Well, that is a good point. I use 7014 to fill holes in things. It is Extremely easy to start and run and makes pretty beads and fills holes better than anything. But for strength and ductility I will choose a 7018 every time. Even though on paper the 7014 is just as strong, I don't think testing bears that out. But if you want to start running pretty beads really quickly as you are on the learning curve, 7014 is your "huckleberry". I still keep a supply of it and a supply of 6011 adn 7018, I even have some 6013, which is my least favorite rod, though I do use the really small stuff for tackup on sheet metal.

Have made alot of repairs and fabricated alot of stuff including tractor buckets and wood hauling trailers with nothing but 6013. Not a failure yet as a result

People get judgmental way to quick when it comes to rod selection IMO. Proper joint selection and a quality weld matters more IMO.

 

[yomax4]

Although I like 7018, It's a hassle to care for it once opened. I also like 6013 and 7024 but usually use specialty rods that i beg off the reps. Missell Weld, Super120, 88-83, MG500, Assorted Eutectic stuff. I can't seem to get the dang flux off of 6010 or 6011 without beating the crap out of it. That's where 70xx rods shine.