鮮ew Yanmar from Fredericks

[rScotty]

Biggest issue is that most of my projects need digging/leveling, not loading. Don稚 want to break my new tractor doing something it wasn稚 designed for.
Jbo

The smaller the bucket width, the easier it will dig. Standard buckets will dig, but not real well - although they will certainly dig faster than you and most of your friends can by hand. A bucket with long teeth or prongs or a rock bucket (below) will dig so much faster that it is often worth changing the bucket - or at least the cutting edge of the bucket - for digging and then changing back for scooping the loosened dirt.

For final leveling, I aim the bucket edge a little less than straight down, put enough pressure on the loader to raise the front wheels, and drive in reverse ... pulling the dirt.
rScotty

 

[careyo63]

Get the Tractor you can always add a loader. I was amazed at how well the rear scoop in Rev.dug. I turned it around and went forward to grade and smooth out a water run off. It worked fantastic. No tooth bar yet either which I'm working on. And I've done figured out my no lift and dumping. If I need to do it I have some old metal siding to make walls on a old 12' Duel Axle flat bed trailer. Been under cover in the RV. shed that is no longer had. Nothing to backing up on it and then dumping it. Then I'm not using my Pickup just waiting to get hit with the FEL. or the tractor for that matter. Does it happen? you Know it!! The issue of being 2WD. and wanting to remove it, I just mentioned so in 12 yrs. and haven't had to put one on yet. In the Pic. 2Wd. YM2000 front end. Actually there 2 flat cross bars the total length then axle plates in between at the ends. 12" or so. 2 bolts for the adjustments of the Pos.,Neg. camber. And then a 1" center Pin is all the front rides on for a total of 1.75" width of the Cross Bar.. That's it!! I'm staying away and will rent a Bobcat if I need to if I have to dig something out. Again and use the trailer. Also for me with the implement on the rear and you set it right you get major down force on the rear tires. My Org. "Huge lug Bidgestones" work really good. Then add the teeth I'll be good. And the for you and see how it goes Of having to add one.

 

[duanew1]

For final leveling, I aim the bucket edge a little less than straight down, put enough pressure on the loader to raise the front wheels, and drive in reverse ... pulling the dirt.
rScotty

Not from my own experiences, but I have seen videos where people have damaged their curl cylinders by hitting something while dragging the ground. It is better to leave the bucket only slightly tilted down. The problem is that the cylinder is fully extended and becomes easier to bend if you hit something with the end of the bucket.

 

[bmaverick]

DUANEW1. Wow, you are only a little hop away from Fredricks. That is so cool.

 

[rScotty]

Not from my own experiences, but I have seen videos where people have damaged their curl cylinders by hitting something while dragging the ground. It is better to leave the bucket only slightly tilted down. The problem is that the cylinder is fully extended and becomes easier to bend if you hit something with the end of the bucket.

Good point. If the loader lift arms can flex, then it puts a bending stress on the arm cylinders. And that is worse when the cylinder is extended - which is how they are when the bucket is edge down.

It depends a lot on the loader, too. Like anything else, some are built heavier than others.

Anyway, it doesn't hurt to look at the loader with a critical eye.

 

[duanew1]

DUANEW1. Wow, you are only a little hop away from Fredricks. That is so cool.

I went down there once to look at their tractors. I decided to buy used from craigslist instead.

I actually just moved to South Carolina a few weeks ago. I also picked up a YT235. I just haven't updated my info yet. Too busy.

 

[California]

If hurting the curl cylinders concerns you then use Float for backdrag. Maybe load some material in the bucket if it needs weight to help the leveling. And I've found that backing up in a tight circle while backdragging will level a spot where a hump persists after backdragging, This will spread the excess material into the adjacent hollow.

 

[California]

Photo in an old post describing levelling the area after I backhoed out a large stump. (pushed over to the left in this photo).

The post:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...-controls-aftermarket-double.html#post3016019
"I couldn't make the ground this smooth if I didn't have 'float' to let the bucket slide along the ground independent of the tractor's lurches as it backed over lumps and hollows."

Backfilling an excavation that size - roughly dinner table dimensions - also need compaction which I did by driving over the fill after each 18" of material shoved in the hole.

But sometimes it's too wet to compact the fill by driving over it.

 

[Jboc]

Should I get teeth for the bucket or is that just encouraging myself to do more than I should with the loader?

Jbo

 

[California]

Should I get teeth for the bucket or is that just encouraging myself to do more than I should with the loader?

Jbo

I did ok without it. A toothbar would dig faster but I don't need every last gadget. 'Good enough', just the loader, was sufficient for moving dirt around.

There are 1,000 trees here representing many generations going back over 120 years. Some of them age out, fall down, need to be replaced each year. After I took over responsibility for digging out stumps here, I dug out a couple of stumps with the loader then gave up and bought the 3-point backhoe which works a lot better for that specialized task.

I wouldn't start out with a toothbar unless you have a clear and continual need to dig into the earth.

Here's a photo from 2005, before the backhoe and ROPS, where I dug up then filled a trench about 2 ft deep using the loader and mostly the box blade. The BB is a more versatile general tool compared to a toothbar.