Buying Advice Update on Purchase: Kubota M7060

[ovrszd]

Again go back to the fat kid on a teter toter. The more weight on one end, the less weight on the other. In this case the rear axle is the pivot.

If you lift a heavy load & the rears come off the ground 100% of the weight of the tractor & whatever load is sitting on that front axle. And that pivot on the front axle is almost assuredly starting to tip setting you up to roll over in microseconds.

If you have a load on the 3pt (even better, way behind for more leverage) weight is transfered from the front to the rears, regardless of anything on the loader. That leaves 3pt weight + transfered weight on the rear axle.

Proper ballast on the 3pt isn't high. It's usually as high as the axle or lower. Box blade, tiller, even a rotary cutter are all lower profile than most CUT axles. In that case it's actually got a lower center of gravity than wheel weights or any liquid ballast over the axle centerline.

Somebody on TBN actually weighed axles attempting to disprove this (I think, maybe he was trying to prove it). He found the numbers showed a very noticable unloading of the front axle in all situations.

So is the answer #1 or #2??

This gets very complicated and difficult to understand.

Your teter totter example isn't applicable. If the tractor was weighted in such a scenario the front tires would lift off the ground when the FEL bucket was dumped. Doesn't apply in this situation.

Sorry for the thread drift.

 

[Fallon]

So is the answer #1 or #2??

This gets very complicated and difficult to understand.

Your teter totter example isn't applicable. If the tractor was weighted in such a scenario the front tires would lift off the ground when the FEL bucket was dumped. Doesn't apply in this situation.

Sorry for the thread drift.

The teter toter aspect is still correct, even if 100% of the weight isn't being transfered. You end up with less weight on the font axle the more weight you have on the rears. That holds up no matter the load on the front up until the weight on the front can pull the rears off the ground. Then that extra weight ends up on the front axle as well.

 

[ovrszd]

The teter toter aspect is still correct, even if 100% of the weight isn't being transfered. You end up with less weight on the font axle the more weight you have on the rears. That holds up no matter the load on the front up until the weight on the front can pull the rears off the ground. Then that extra weight ends up on the front axle as well.

The reason the TT example isn't applicable is you only have, at the most, 2 ground contact points. With your tractor, before the load is lifted, you have 3. At the least with the TT, 1. At the least with the tractor, 2.

Your last two sentences make my point. Thank you for expressing it in a different light.

 

[Fallon]

The reason the TT example isn't applicable is you only have, at the most, 2 ground contact points. With your tractor, before the load is lifted, you have 3. At the least with the TT, 1. At the least with the tractor, 2.

Your last two sentences make my point. Thank you for expressing it in a different light.

Teter toter isn't a perfect analogy, but it's close. If you assume the beam inst anchored down it will be applicable if the beam hit a 2nd crossbar.

 

[Herkypilot]

I believe all you are describing is shifting the pivot point. Weight on (or in) the rear wheels simply just keeps the rear on the ground. It doesn't shift the pivot at all. Weight on the 3 point will act to shift the pivot point to the rear axle. Another way to look at it is shifting the center of gravity aft. The further out the weight is on the 3 pt, the more effective it will be shifting the pivot aft. Exaggerating this effect to the extreme would result in the front wheels coming off the ground and the tractor pivots on the rear axle.

HP

 

[ovrszd]

I believe all you are describing is shifting the pivot point. Weight on (or in) the rear wheels simply just keeps the rear on the ground. It doesn't shift the pivot at all. Weight on the 3 point will act to shift the pivot point to the rear axle. Another way to look at it is shifting the center of gravity aft. The further out the weight is on the 3 pt, the more effective it will be shifting the pivot aft. Exaggerating this effect to the extreme would result in the front wheels coming off the ground and the tractor pivots on the rear axle.

HP

Very accurate.

I have carried too much weight on the 3pt and made the tractor dangerously light on the front axle when no load was on the FEL.

 

[Reg]

Anyone have a problem with the PARK on this model ?

In particular if allowed to "roll into" the transmission lock on a slight grade it can be very hard to get it out of park.

On previous tractors there has always been a way to lock the foot brakes down - I can't find that on this one, either physically or in the manual, does it EXIST ?

 

[Herkypilot]

Anyone have a problem with the PARK on this model ?

In particular if allowed to "roll into" the transmission lock on a slight grade it can be very hard to get it out of park.

On previous tractors there has always been a way to lock the foot brakes down - I can't find that on this one, either physically or in the manual, does it EXIST ?

I do not have this issue with mine - on a hill or otherwise. This has been discussed in other M7060 threads. If your tractor is difficult to get in/out of park, your dealer may need to adjust your linkage.

HP

 

[mopardude318]

My 7060 has no problems with the park, goes in and out easy.

On another note, y’all with factory cab/ROPS lights, where does Kubota put the factory light switch? Mine is a ROPS model.

 

[Farmer495]

My 7060 has no problems with the park, goes in and out easy.

On another note, y’all with factory cab/ROPS lights, where does Kubota put the factory light switch? Mine is a ROPS model.

Factory light has the switch built into the light housing. The wiring pigtail is on each fender and is HOT when the key is on. I did not get the factory lights, double what nicer LED floods are and I was able to plug into the factory harness and run mine off a toggle switch to turn both on at once (key on only )

 

[mopardude318]

Factory light has the switch built into the light housing. The wiring pigtail is on each fender and is HOT when the key is on. I did not get the factory lights, double what nicer LED floods are and I was able to plug into the factory harness and run mine off a toggle switch to turn both on at once (key on only )

Thank you. Do you know what the factory wires by the fenders are fused at? 5 or 10 amp?

 

[Farmer495]

Thank you. Do you know what the factory wires by the fenders are fused at? 5 or 10 amp?

If you pull the fuse cover off it should be labelled with one fuse for EACH fender, I thought they were 15 each(?) I ran both LED lights off one fuse no issues. but less power draw than halogen.

 

[inode]

Anyone have a problem with the PARK on this model ?

In particular if allowed to "roll into" the transmission lock on a slight grade it can be very hard to get it out of park.

On previous tractors there has always been a way to lock the foot brakes down - I can't find that on this one, either physically or in the manual, does it EXIST ?

Mine almost crushed me a few weeks back. I put it into park while I was swapping out implements. I was on a slight grade and did not lower my FEL. I put it into park; I saw the red park light come on, on the dash. I got off the tractor and went behind it. As I was hooking up the implement, the tractor jumped out of Park and starting rolling back towards me gaining speed as the decline increased. I had to run around the side of the tractor and hit the brakes with my hands as there was no time to get on the tractor. This is a new tractor with ~8 hours on it. My wife and parents found no humor in the event. Had it been a cab model and not open cab, I would not have had time to hit the brakes.


I have heard ChuckE2009 on Youtube mention his 7060 had jumped out of Park a couple times. This is something that needs to be looked at. I won't get off tractor now without FEL and implements down.

 

[fruitcakesa]

Out of habit I lock the brakes and lower implements whenever I get off my machine .

 

[ovrszd]

In my opinion Kubota is lacking in not having lockable brakes. I'm guessing they don't because they are hydraulic brakes. I never trust a park pin on anything.

 

[Reg]

Out of habit I lock the brakes and lower implements whenever I get off my machine .

Me too, I also put the bucket down.

The PROBLEM with the M7060 is that it doesn't HAVE a (friction) brake lock, i.e. it is very much like an automobile with a "P" position in the transmission lever and no "e brake" that can be locked on.
The short vertical rod that I referred to earlier seems to be the item "at issue".

If it is out of adjustment one way you can get on an incline and put it in park, roll against it and not be able to get out unless/until the load on that pawl is released.
In our case by me shoving with another tractor that just happened to be on site that day.
{Since we were positioning equipment for installation with the pallet forks the "bucket as a brake" option wasn't available to us at that moment.}
If it is out of adjustment the other way it seems it can pop out of park and roll.

One way you're stuck, the other way you could be crushed - some choice.
The shop manual says 95 mm, but doesn't tell you exactly how to measure that, e.g. center to center or between some marks.

 

[inode]

It very much needs a lockable, friction-based parking brake. I can tell you I no longer trust it and will lower all equipment/FEL EVERY TIME when getting off the seat now. I was on and off the tractor numerous times that day. It's a bad setup and it's going to get someone killed. Like I said earlier, had it been a cab model, I would not have had enough time to get in the cab to hit the brakes. It would have been a KTAC claim as it would have rolled down the hill into hardwoods at speed damaging a new tractor.

 

[Fallon]

In my opinion Kubota is lacking in not having lockable brakes. I'm guessing they don't because they are hydraulic brakes. I never trust a park pin on anything.

On all the Ls you only get a latch for the brakes. It's a little irritating to engage. I'd prefer a lever (that blocks egress when not engaged) like on excavators.

 

[Reg]

This MIGHT lead me toward safer practices, i.e.carry a pair of hefty chocks and USE THEM every time I stop and "park", whether changing implements or just pausing.
There could be some GOOD coming out of this.

 

[ovrszd]

I'd never use chocks. I'm on/off too many times.