And it gets even worse: Update on my Bushhog 286 repairs

[RickB]

Option #4 is still on the table and looking pretty good if I do say so myself. It can't be any worse and will probably work a whole lot better.

Thanks,

Let us know how long it lasts.

 

[FTG-05]

Hes saying it will cost you $1.50 in parts.

For a $500 brush hog i would be welding all that crap together too. There are many forsale around here.

I looked on CL today. There are two Bushhog 286's for sale, one for $1200, the other for $1300. Both look in the same condition as mine.

 

[FTG-05]

Well that was interesting. Talked to a friend of mine this afternoon about this problem. He used to work at the local farm store and said he used to repair about one bushhog/rotary cutter a week with this problem.

He said a "bushing" cost about $20, cut out the old one (lots of grinders and cut off wheels) and weld the new "bushing" on. Did a search at the Agri-Supply place on "15 spline" and this was one of the first results:

Agri-Supply calls it a "Blade Hub": Blade Hub for RW61� | Agri Supply #89755

So we're back to a variation that Pmsmechanic mentioned in post #9 above, except with no machine shop work, just grinder/cut off wheel and plasma work.

Comments?

 

[RickB]

Well that was interesting. Talked to a friend of mine this afternoon about this problem. He used to work at the local farm store and said he used to repair about one bushhog/rotary cutter a week with this problem.

He said a "bushing" cost about $20, cut out the old one (lots of grinders and cut off wheels) and weld the new "bushing" on. Did a search at the Agri-Supply place on "15 spline" and this was one of the first results:

Agri-Supply calls it a "Blade Hub": Blade Hub for RW61� | Agri Supply #89755

So we're back to a variation that Pmsmechanic mentioned in post #9 above, except with no machine shop work, just grinder/cut off wheel and plasma work.

Comments?

That looks VERY promising if the spline count, diameter and taper are a match.

 

[pmsmechanic]

So it seems like these cutters have an issue with the nut coming loose and then the hub and the shaft wear. If a person could drill the shaft for a cotter pin and then using a castellated nut and a cotter pin to keep the nut from turning loose.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

option 4 makes me figure I will NEVER buy a used bush hog, unless I know the owner and history.

way too much mass getting hit, shocked and jolted hard continuously. When it flies, it is not going to ask permission who's in the way if it can hit them or not...

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Well that was interesting. Talked to a friend of mine this afternoon about this problem. He used to work at the local farm store and said he used to repair about one bushhog/rotary cutter a week with this problem.

He said a "bushing" cost about $20, cut out the old one (lots of grinders and cut off wheels) and weld the new "bushing" on. Did a search at the Agri-Supply place on "15 spline" and this was one of the first results:

Agri-Supply calls it a "Blade Hub": Blade Hub for RW61� | Agri Supply #89755

So we're back to a variation that Pmsmechanic mentioned in post #9 above, except with no machine shop work, just grinder/cut off wheel and plasma work.

Comments?

That bore looks tapered, or something different than what fits the shaft.

 

[RickB]

That bore looks tapered, or something different than what fits the shaft.

IIRC the 286 shaft is tapered as most Bush Hog cutter output shafts are. And all Bush Hog output shafts I have ever seen use castle nuts with cotters.

 

[RickB]

So it seems like these cutters have an issue with the nut coming loose and then the hub and the shaft wear. If a person could drill the shaft for a cotter pin and then using a castellated nut and a cotter pin to keep the nut from turning loose.

The shaft is cross drilled and uses a castle nut and cotter key.

 

[nyone]

I think some are forgetting that no matter how new the blade holder/stump jumper is if your attaching it to splines that are screwed up its just going to beat its self to death and you will be doing this again but now with worse splines on the shaft.

If you do install a new bushing on the crappy splined shaft i would look for a way to take up the extra space. Some kind of liquid metal, epoxy or Belzoni. I guess you could put some hefty tacks on it when together too. If you inspect them later and find the tacks cracked, This could tell you if its moving. At that point i would weld it all solid because its all junk.