Shop Walls

[lilranch2001]

I think when I ever get to finishing my shop, I will use moisture resistant drywall on the bottom 8' portion of the walls. And then use 4 x 8 sheets of 22 - 28 gauge galvanized sheets over them. I will pick the gauge when I see what the cost at the time is.
A little salty but it will hold up very well.

I worked in a shop with this type of finish and as much as I thought weld arc flash would be bad, it never was an issue.

 

[JK22]

I think when I ever get to finishing my shop, I will use moisture resistant drywall on the bottom 8' portion of the walls. And then use 4 x 8 sheets of 22 - 28 gauge galvanized sheets over them. I will pick the gauge when I see what the cost at the time is.
A little salty but it will hold up very well.

I worked in a shop with this type of finish and as much as I thought weld arc flash would be bad, it never was an issue.

Hmmm. I really like this idea. Quite a bit cheaper than diamond plate and close to the look and function I’m going for.

 

[lilranch2001]

if you do go this route, and you have wood construction ( I Have standard 2x6 wall studs 14' tall) and if you plan on making sparks, especially welding and or cutting, make sure make sure you protect the bottom plate with a sheet metal angle (or something) underneath the drywall, so no hot embers roll up and start the wood on fire.

:fiery:

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I've been thinking of doing something similar and I have been considering using Zip Board. It's supposed to be weather-resistant so I assume it would handle dampness. It's about $25 a sheet so it's more than OSB but still not ruinous. I don't know how well it takes paint. I'm also not sure which face I want to look at.

 

[JK22]

I've been thinking of doing something similar and I have been considering using Zip Board. It's supposed to be weather-resistant so I assume it would handle dampness. It's about $25 a sheet so it's more than OSB but still not ruinous. I don't know how well it takes paint. I'm also not sure which face I want to look at.

I’ve looked into this stuff. I think it’s basically Exposure 1 rated, same as OSB sheathing. It will stand up to some water but will eventually swell. And eventually is probably within 1 year.

 

[JK22]

if you do go this route, and you have wood construction ( I Have standard 2x6 wall studs 14' tall) and if you plan on making sparks, especially welding and or cutting, make sure make sure you protect the bottom plate with a sheet metal angle (or something) underneath the drywall, so no hot embers roll up and start the wood on fire.

:fiery:

Good point. Thanks.

 

[two_bit_score]

I'd probably use OSB or T-111.

Inside, painted on the bottom with no direct contact with the floor T-111 would be a very good choice.

 

[shootemup604]

Local rink was replacing the boards - got some pieces of this 1/4" plastic puckboard, turn the scuffed side to the wall, and install. White shiny very durable plastic.

 

[WM75Guy]

Hi,

Any ideas for an inexpensive durable option?

Thanks,
Doug

My definition of inexpensive is probably different from your definition. My Morton stables has 2"X8" tongue and groove with the bottom board being ground contact. It looks nice and has absorbed a lot of impact from 1500# horses hooves without any damage. I used Menard's as an example for pricing. You could use 20' sticks with the bottom treated and the 2 above it not treated. That would give you your 24" height and 20' of wall length for $100.

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...nd-groove-treated/1111260/p-1444422142679.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...ellow-pine-lumber/1028887/p-1444422743797.htm

My walls are 8' tall but this gives you an idea of what it would look like.

 

[ray66v]

When I get that far, I'm going to buy 12"x12" porcelain tile, and do the bottom 4' of the walls with them.

HD has them for a buck a piece, all the time.