The Newest Restored Garden Tractor in America, Husqvarna GT48DXLS, the Build.

[GT48DXLS]

30AUG2018,

I received my two new front 4ply lugs from Amazon (they are Carlisle).



The dawn was for making soapy water to lube the rubber when installing (by hand). The c-clamp and wood was used to break the bead on the original tires. Before breaking the bead I unscrewed the valve to let the air out, completely. this is tubeless. The "T" bicycle tool is what I used to remove the little valve.



And when filling the tires I used a cargo strap and giant screw driver to apply a tourniquet to squeeze the side walls tight against the wheel rim while filling.



More coming,

 

[GT48DXLS]

01SEP2018,

This is another factory quality problem I had to fix.

The fuel tank (called an EPA) has a little 1/8" fuel vapor vent return nipple on the outside of the filler neck of the fuel tank, it's weak and it's plastic. You can't really repair this without some true special tools because of the type of plastic that needs to be welded and in the long run will just break anyway again because of it's placement.

The filler neck comes up through a hole in the body and if the tank (that is not held in place by any real secure way but just placement under the body and the hole!) moves and it did, then it will break and you will smell fuel while operating, or contaminate the fuel in the tank, or don't park it next to a barbecue.

Here is what I did to fix the problem,





1 small screw, some Teflon on threads for seal,



1 silicone bump hose for the outside of screw and for vibration protection between the filler neck and the hole in the body. 1 stainless steel "t" clamp for extra protection over the screw, done and sealed!





this is the specifics on the two pieces,



(Update, Still no issues with all the hard use)

More coming,

 

[GT48DXLS]

01SEP2018,

The Johnny Bucket (jr) front support, installed.





More coming,

 

[Diggin It]

Did the johnny bucket cause the frame to buckle? Or did it happen without the johnny bucket?

I admire your effort and understand your disgust at the Husquavrna frame being weak. I've got a 42" Husky and a 54" CC XT3-GSX. I wouldn't consider either one to be a bulldozer wanna-be. At most I'll ask the CC to drag dirt around to level the lawn for that I've got the Box blade and the JB lift for it.

This guy's been on a tear about this now for a while across more than one website/forum. He simply refuses to take responsibility for abusing the machine and keeps ragging on Husqy.

 

[GT48DXLS]

02SEP2018,

Time to install the wiring and switches for the Johnny Bucket.

The switches,



I went to West Marine to get Marine Grade wiring, shrink wrap, terminals, fuse box, and bus bar, all stainless steel, The reason for stainless steel when possible is because the salt air corrodes very quickly. The Thompson Warner actuators are rated at a max draw with max load at 25 amps on 12 volts, that's a lot of heat, I figured this would not be the time to go cheap on wiring, and the connectors are soldered.

This is the new positive battery cable,





The new Negative battery cable, and the black 3/4" wire loom protecting and carrying the JBJR switch power control to the front bracket for the quick connects.



The Fuse box,



This is the bracket, switches wired and neg bus bar. The bracket is 2" aluminum flat bar from the box store and 1/8".





The main cable from the switches to the bucket are in a coil, I already fit it to the aluminum bracket that I made and I didn't like how loose the main part was, so it was disconnected from the bracket until I made some new brackets. I'll finish showing the new brackets when I find or take new pictures.



I'll attach the Warner/ Thompson actuator decode png, and the full Warner product spec catalog pdf, for the curious to the one thinking of a project themselves, and the one wanting to verify product claims, it comes in handy.

More coming,

 

[GT48DXLS]

02SEP2018,

I busted my knuckles, elbows, hands, face even, on the dual springs that return the mowing deck. I'm sure there is some super-special-secret way to install these simply, but it escaped me. So just shy of jumping up and down, barking at the moon, flapping my arms like a chicken, I had an idea. The theatrics I figured would keep this civil and family friendly, but these things were a pain.

My last efforts before calling for help, was to use a cargo strap. Wish I knew to start with this first.



Also as a side note, do you see the fuel tank (looking up) just resting in there between the body and trans, nothing there to ensure it doesn't move, relying on the filler neck through the body hole and a loose track bracket underneath. I prefer bolts and straps, something.



I was concerned about the tension on the body at first, kept checking with fingers while slowly ratcheting, but it was fine.

More coming,

 

[GT48DXLS]

(This correspondence with Tuff Torq and phone conversations trying to verify Husqvarna claims for warranty denial, happened during this part of the build time so I include the pertinent.)

Tuff Torq Corporation
After Market Service Parts
6041 Hunter Road
Talbott, TN 37877
Phone (866) 572-3441
Fax (423) 317-2312

The response Tuff Torq sent me in an email, to questions I had,(thinking Husqvarna was deceptive in a warranty denial response speaking for Tuff Torq), confirmed my hunch. By the way, the K66 has never been a problem. Tuff Torq also took the time to include;

Their oil change guide, procedure, oil chart, the actual model of K66 we have in our Husqvarna GT/ TS models, diagrams, and a parts list. Some I've already supplied, the rest is here.

Our K66 is an K66AG not K66ELD or such. I know Husqvarna Dealers list it this way in the IPL, and tell the customer it represents the Electronic Locking Differential, but Tuff Torq says "NO", it doesn't. Tuff Torq says, no-such-model exists. If you doubt what Tuff Torq is saying, just look at your model number sticker on the rear side axle support, of your unit. In the number it's self explanatory. It's hard to have a conversation about a K66 that doesn't exist when it counts. It would have been easier for Husqvarna to just label the K66 as Tuff Torq does, it's not repaired or supplied by Husqvarna.

Thank You Tuff Torq.

Again, If someone is wondering if this is real, I gave the source above and can prove time and date. I hope this helps.

More coming,

 

[GT48DXLS]

Update,

10SEP2018,

As I started to hook the fuel lines back up, I was uncomfortable with how close moving parts were to the rubber line running inside the chassis next to the brake rod and spring where they connect to the brake arm on the transaxle. The brake rod and spring are intentionally loose but not too loose (perfectly tight risks having the brake engaged all the time, too loose and the brake won't engage). The brake rod moves enough that if there was a sudden rocking side to side the two will touch. This is a sloppy design, I tried to clean it up a bit. Just to be clear all the lines on this were rubber, loose, and floppy, it is the standard. I was uncomfortable with it.

I bought a 50' coil of 1/4" steel brake line with chassis fasteners, and nuts as a kit on Amazon for $25.

Here is what I came up with to solve this; (the lines do have a mild flare on each end with a double flare tool, just enough to offer a tight seal)

Because I didn't see a need to change the lines from the carburetor back to the fuel pump, I started at the back of the motor with the first aluminum bracket I made out of flat bar, and a shop vice.





I had many test fittings on and off with the new pieces as I worked my way back, and put the sharpie black arrow on the fuel filter just to make sure I couldn't miss the proper direction. Also with this section I solved the problem with the filter rubbing on the back of the motor with vibration, (How it came from the dealer).



This next step was tricky, I blew through many pieces of tube before settling on this to get around the frame in a way that would not be to vulnerable to things while operating.



Then under the body going back to the fuel tank.





Then getting the angle right to still allow for vibration safety at the tank but also to avoid all the potential moving hazards of raising or lowering the mower deck.





A view from the rear.



More coming,

 

[GT48DXLS]

I had to retire my old yard trailer ($100 box store special) and picked up an Ohio steel 12 cubic foot dump cart (4048P-HYB) to complete my project for now (as a note, the Husqvarna Tub is the same, the difference will be in the trailer tongue). I also picked up a universal ATV receiver that I mounted on the rear sleeve. I found a 2" universal ATV hitch that I mounted upside down in order to clear the suit case weights and a ball mount with 4" drop that I oriented with a rise to get the 12" for flat connection with trailer.







The new trailer had plans for the wood side extensions included in the manual. I altered the plans a little by adding a third horizontal with treated 1"x4" I already had. The vertical boards are 1"x3" and I oil coated them (50% diesel and 50% 30w dino oil, brushed on like with ranch fences).











The old trailer and new,





(Update to now) The hitch set up worked, pulling and backing up needed an additional hole drilled to keep it from moving to the side. So.....

I have something that replaced this set up, way better, and I'll reveal in it's own thread another time. Not too long

More coming,

 

[GT48DXLS]

06NOV2018

UPDATE!

This is my new modification for hauling 7/8 X 8' pressure treated round posts to the site for H-Brace, Corner, and such in the Bekaert non climb horse fence I'm installing.

It was very simple, and has quick connects too.

It has hauled 1 at a time to site all 22. I have 94 hrs on the tractor now.

Also, the flat pad in the background is the finished, level pad I did entirely with the JB jr.











There have been more modifications since but this is the most significant. The next post will be it's conclusion today,