Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck

[PhysAssist]

You can drive the roll pins out with a properly sized drift punch. I did this after buying a Speeco Cat 2 hitch for my New Holland then taking it back several years ago.

View attachment 613163

Or- we use these: https://www.amazon.com/RanchEx-1020...gory+bushings&qid=1563771093&s=gateway&sr=8-8

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/6136HQ7UX5L._SL1000_.jpg

There are a lot of other busing choices available here:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=category+bushings&ref=nb_sb_noss_

 

[PhysAssist]

I recently needed an impact to get the caliper brackets off of my truck for a brake job. the HF impact wobbles in metric were a like a gift from god at that moment. would recommend!

The HF Hydraulic Gear puller similarly helped me get a frozen-on brake disk off of my F-I-L's Ford Focus [in pieces- but off nonetheless].

https://shop.harborfreight.com/medi...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_16382.jpg

12 Ton Hydraulic Gear Puller

 

[PhysAssist]

Amazon has quite a few led shop lights, many of them "linkable". Their way of saying they can plug into each other.
They have a 4-pack for about $80. I will most likely purchase those in the near future. I believe the lumen output is about 4800....not bad for just a few watts....42 per fixture compared to a T8 fixture which is closer to 100 watts.

I bought a 6-pack of them, they are very bright, easily linkable and they're currently selling for $119.99 for 6 with Prime shipping.

 

[PhysAssist]

I have an overhead LED light that I bought at Sam's club. I think it's a Honeywell and I've had no problems with it in the cold out in the shop in my barn at any time of year.

We have several kinds in our barn, and also have them in the pot lamps in our porch ceiling, and they were unaffected by winter temps going as low as the minus lower teens [-10-14F].

The LCD's in our Honda's are way less tolerant...

 

[lostcreekranch]

Or- we use these: https://www.amazon.com/RanchEx-1020...gory+bushings&qid=1563771093&s=gateway&sr=8-8

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/6136HQ7UX5L._SL1000_.jpg

There are a lot of other busing choices available here:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=category+bushings&ref=nb_sb_noss_

If you look at my previous post, the bushing you noted are part of one solution. These bushings are significantly less expensive at Tractor Supply than what you linked to on Amazon.com.

David, if your implements have draw pins for lower lift arms ..... you can replace them with Cat 2 draw pins (1 1/8" dia.) with Cat 2 to Cat 3 bushings.

CountyLine Draw Pin, Cat 1 to 2, S724TSC at Tractor Supply Co.

CountyLine Category 3 to 2 Lift Arm Bushing at Tractor Supply Co.

Total cost for both sides ..... about $20

Or install Cat 1 QH Bushings;

https://www.amazon.com/RanchEx-102074-Quick-Adapter-Bushing/dp/B0747GKLX8

If your implement draw pins are Cat 2 use these;

https://www.amazon.com/RanchEx-102076-Adapter-Bushing-Quick/dp/B01N9F3BLD

For your upper link;

CountyLine Category 2 to 1 Top Link Bushing at Tractor Supply Co.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-category-3-to-2-top-link-bushing

View attachment 613769

Hope this helps.

 

[PhysAssist]

If you look at my previous post, the bushing you noted are part of one solution. These bushings are significantly less expensive at Tractor Supply than what you linked to on Amazon.com.

Re: "https://www.amazon.com/RanchEx-102068-Lift-Reducer-Bushing/dp/B01MYXFV83/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=category+bushings&qid=1563771093&s=gateway&sr=8-8"
vs
"https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-category-2-to-1-top-link-bushing"

Well, Rick, you are as usual, completely correct, and I will plead laziness with my mea culpa, as I must also admit that in reading through the thread during my catch-up, I didn't open every single external link that had been posted.

I stand [sitting at home for a change]- corrected.

Thomas

PS: At 1/2 the price of the Amazon listing price I would, of course, agree to significantly less expensive, at the very least.

 

[lostcreekranch]

Re: "https://www.amazon.com/RanchEx-102068-Lift-Reducer-Bushing/dp/B01MYXFV83/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=category+bushings&qid=1563771093&s=gateway&sr=8-8"
vs
"https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-category-2-to-1-top-link-bushing"

Well, Rick, you are as usual, completely correct, and I will plead laziness with my mea culpa, as I must also admit that in reading through the thread during my catch-up, I didn't open every single external link that had been posted.

I stand [sitting at home for a change]- corrected.

Thomas

PS: At 1/2 the price of the Amazon listing price I would, of course, agree to significantly less expensive, at the very least.

We're all here to help ....... each other.

 

[Threepoint]

We're all here to help ....... each other.

Yep. :thumbsup:

Well, I do notice a troll or a shill on TBN from time to time. Not on this thread, though, as far as I can tell. :laughing:

 

[rangerfredbob]

And a new use for the Magnetic Tool Holder that is occasionally 'free with purchase'.

Someone posted about using a flat magnet on his HFQuickHitch to hold clips temporarily. (I use similar flat magnets on my fenders for the seat belt ends). After reading his magnet post, I stuck a Magnetic Tool Holder on my qhitch.

This still needs to be modified. It's too long to put on top so I stuck it to the front edge of the hitch, see the photo. But only the weak back side of the magnet is exposed. Next, I'll cut it down to the length I can install on top, with the magnetic material upward. Question - Is it possible to arc weld the magnet's metal U-shaped border without killing the magnetism?

View attachment 613893

The magnets are only held in the trough with magnetism I believe, and the black sticker across the front, so you could just remove the magnets then put them back in...

Good idea though, I'm thinking half of one attached to the back of the seat on my Tractor wouldn't be a bad idea...

 

[California]

The magnets are only held in the trough with magnetism I believe, and the black sticker across the front, so you could just remove the magnets then put them back in.

I went ahead with the project, see post 11328. I should have taken the magnets out. Or at least the one where I shortened the bar to fit. They are some weird material that dulled my hacksaw. Maybe Hematite fused in ceramic. Each magnet is a couple of inches long. Where I cut the channel to length, I chipped that magnet to size with a chisel and hammer. They are glued in with something like tar.