Couple questions about trail grading, and hydraulic top links/top and tilt

[RNeumann]

To be clear- if you go the top and tilt direction you don’t what the land plane- you want the box blade with rippers. Get a nice one. It will last many lifetimes.....

A land plane is more for something without T&T.

I wouldn’t be without my top and tilt. Period

 

[bridge4]

So this is what I have gathered from the advice so far, please correct me if I am wrong:

1) A box blade w/rippers is the way to go for rougher work, so I should start with one of those, especially for trail work.

2) I should get the hydraulic links, then in the winter, revert to the original side links and put the blower back on.


Thanks for help folks!


Edit: Looking at the Land Pride BB25 66 inch, looks to be 500lbs. I know weight of these is important, the mahindra sd version is 820 lbs at 60 inches, and their hd is 1000lbs.

So is landpride not a good option here? I have also looked at everything attachments and theirs seem a little heavier than LP, but still not as heavy. In my mind its weird the Mahindra one is the most HD?

 

[MHarryE]

Once you get orientation set, unplug top link and tilt link cylinders. Once disconnected they are hydraulically locked - differing volumes on rod and piston ends of cylinder make them physically unable to move. That leaves your valves open for use with blower.

 

[bridge4]

Once you get orientation set, unplug top link and tilt link cylinders. Once disconnected they are hydraulically locked - differing volumes on rod and piston ends of cylinder make them physically unable to move. That leaves your valves open for use with blower.

Thanks, sounds like this can all work together. Appreciate the feedback.

 

[gunny0628]

The only complaint I have with the hydraulic top link is that when you switch to another implement you have to get out and back in the tractor to move the top link in or out for your adjustment just so you can hook up the implement. On the manual top link you don’t have to get back in the tractor. Wish there was a way to do it from outside the tractor.

 

[John_Mc]

The only complaint I have with the hydraulic top link is that when you switch to another implement you have to get out and back in the tractor to move the top link in or out for your adjustment just so you can hook up the implement. On the manual top link you don稚 have to get back in the tractor. Wish there was a way to do it from outside the tractor.

I'm guessing you have a cab on your tractor (which probably makes sense in FL, since you'll want AC). I don't have that issue: No cab, since it would get too beat up in the woods. I just reach over the fender and adjust from the ground. Sooner or later, someone will design a cab with an access window that you can open so you can reach the controls from the ground. Maybe it's possible to add one?

 

[Citydude]

I open the main rear window and can reach the remote levers from the ground while standing by the top link. Does your window open?

The only complaint I have with the hydraulic top link is that when you switch to another implement you have to get out and back in the tractor to move the top link in or out for your adjustment just so you can hook up the implement. On the manual top link you don’t have to get back in the tractor. Wish there was a way to do it from outside the tractor.

 

[oosik]

I have created a few trails on my property. I have ripper shanks on both my LPGS and ROBB. The rippers on the ROBB do a much better job. They will engage and rip out clumps of bunch grass and the occasional sage bush. When the rippers become "full" of foreign material - drive off the trail - lift the ROBB - the foreign material will drop loose - back on the trail and keep going. When all the "ripping" and "sculpting" is done - then I uses the LPGS for final grading and smoothing.

The only down side to my FitRite hydraulic top link - I wish I would have bought it when I bought the new tractor. I waited a few years and finally the frustration of - twist, twist, twist - got to me. Now I make all adjustment "on-the-go". It's a fantastic addition to all land engagement implements.

As far as implement attachments. My Kubota M6040 is open station. I've taken a long chunk of quarter round molding - made a loop on the end. The loop goes over the hydraulic lever controlling the hydraulic top link and extends out back. Either push or pull on the molding to extend/retract the top link as I hook up an implement. Another advantage to open station tractors.

 

[bridge4]

I have created a few trails on my property. I have ripper shanks on both my LPGS and ROBB. The rippers on the ROBB do a much better job. They will engage and rip out clumps of bunch grass and the occasional sage bush. When the rippers become "full" of foreign material - drive off the trail - lift the ROBB - the foreign material will drop loose - back on the trail and keep going. When all the "ripping" and "sculpting" is done - then I uses the LPGS for final grading and smoothing.

The only down side to my FitRite hydraulic top link - I wish I would have bought it when I bought the new tractor. I waited a few years and finally the frustration of - twist, twist, twist - got to me. Now I make all adjustment "on-the-go". It's a fantastic addition to all land engagement implements.

As far as implement attachments. My Kubota M6040 is open station. I've taken a long chunk of quarter round molding - made a loop on the end. The loop goes over the hydraulic lever controlling the hydraulic top link and extends out back. Either push or pull on the molding to extend/retract the top link as I hook up an implement. Another advantage to open station tractors.

Thank you for the first hand experience! This is what I am looking to do with my trails. I have them open and nice width, but need to smooth the floor of the trail. My parents come by frequently and walk, and they aren't getting any younger or more mobil.

I don't have an open station, but my rear window pops open quite a ways, could rig something up.

 

[oosik]

I have a heavy ROBB( roll over box blade ) and LPGS( land plane grading scraper ). Both have manual shanks. If I could only have one - the ROBB. It does tasks the scraper can not do. The ROBB will crown the trail/driveway, clean out the ditches, move material from here to there, etc, as well as smooth things out.

The hydraulic top link is much more useful when coupled with the ROBB. That's because the ROBB is capable of so many varied jobs.