Couple questions about trail grading, and hydraulic top links/top and tilt

[bridge4]

So I have some walking trails through the woods that I recently cleared. Most of it is flat, with a few areas that could use some smoothing out. There are also a fair amount of shallow roots and very small stumps (2-3 inch) on the trail that I'd like to rip up so people don't trip. I wasn't sure if a box blade, land plane w/rippers or just a rear blade would be best for this, I was leaning towards the land plane if it would work since I could then use it on my gravel driveways. Any recommendations, advice or tips would be appreciated.

For the hydraulic top link, I have seen the fitrite stuff and I know a member on here is the creator. I understand what it does, but not 100% sure of the implications once I instal one.

So I have 2 rear spools on my 2638, the idea was be able to use hydraulics on a rear blower/blower chute, and maybe even do a top and tilt kit, for previously mentioned trails and driveway. The question is, if I have a top and tilt and top link using my spools, I'm assuming I can't use a hydraulic blower chute and would have to go electric?

Is there any downsides to this? My main uses for my 3pt would be grading/road building and snowblowing in winter. I am new to all this and hydraulics and this is a new world to me, I am slowly wrapping my head around things but have a long way to go.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks!:thumbsup:

 

[DK35vince]

You don't need a tilt cylinder for a blower.
Just unhook the tilt cylinder hoses and plug your blower chute into that remote when using the blower.

 

[bridge4]

You don't need a tilt cylinder for a blower.
Just unhook the tilt cylinder hoses and plug your blower chute into that remote when using the blower.

Thanks for the reply. So it sounds like I'm worried about nothing with that?

 

[/pine]

For any type of grading etc. work...there is not another single modification that will save you more time than a hydraulic top link...it will also greatly reduce learning curves on most grading blades/attachments etc...

Depending on the implement buing used...generally a top link (side link too) if it has check valves can be set then disconnected freeing up your rear remotes (spools)...

IMO you are going to need scarifiers to rip up root and small stumps...with T&T a box blade is one of the most versatile multi tasking implements ever invented for grading and light earth work etc...

Good Luck...

 

[JerryK]

I blow a lot of snow, and ditto on using the ports for the chute rotate. I set my chute wide open manually, and leave it there, so I do not have a reason for that function. I do a lot of trails, and have a FitRite tilt cyl on two of my tractors. Use that for crowning or flattening a side hill trail from side to side, never have had a need to have the top link cyl adjust function. Do not have a box blade, which probably might need the adjustable top link more than most implements . Use a couple home made drags, and a land plane plus rake from Everythingattachments. Do the rough clearing with a backhoe, rear blade, or landplane... after that the rake and drags keep the trails up to snuff.... Do use a front blade sometimes in the fall to push leaves off when they are deep enough.... the big pile of leaves just sliding in front of the blade does a good trail clearing job, too....

 

[ericm979]

A top cylinder lets you adjust the box blade's angle of attack from the seat. The angle determines how aggressively it cuts into the ground. It's a very useful feature.
The tilt cylinder lets you cut at an angle to the tractor. I use it much less often than the tilt when box blading.

You can unplug the tilt or both when running the blower. Or you can run one of the valves through a diverter, which would let you operate one cylinder at a time. Or you can add more valves.

 

[bridge4]

Thanks everyone for the responses, this clears up a lot of my confusion!

 

[/pine]

...The tilt cylinder lets you cut at an angle to the tractor. I use it much less often than the tilt when box blading....

I am just the opposite when working on our mountain gravel lanes...I am constantly adjusting the side link to keep the full length of the cutting edge of the blade in contact...if I do not make said adjustments one side of the blade will often be up to a few inches above and the other side cutting too deeply...as the curving hilly lanes change to keep the runoff moving into the ditches etc...

 

[John_Mc]

For any type of grading etc. work...there is not another single modification that will save you more time than a hydraulic top link...it will also greatly reduce learning curves on most grading blades/attachments etc...

Depending on the implement being used...generally a top link (side link too) if it has check valves can be set then disconnected freeing up your rear remotes (spools)...

I saved my fixed side link and put that on in place of my hydraulic side link when using my snow blower, freeing up the hydraulics for my chute rotation. No need for tilt with my snow blower, and no concerns about my cylinder leaking down.

 

[John_Mc]

I would not try to use a land plane for clearing stumps and roots from your trails. Lowering the rippers on a box blade would be a better way to go, but even then, it will be slow going unless the roots and stumps have been dead a while.

 

[RNeumann]

To be clear- if you go the top and tilt direction you don’t what the land plane- you want the box blade with rippers. Get a nice one. It will last many lifetimes.....

A land plane is more for something without T&T.

I wouldn’t be without my top and tilt. Period

 

[bridge4]

So this is what I have gathered from the advice so far, please correct me if I am wrong:

1) A box blade w/rippers is the way to go for rougher work, so I should start with one of those, especially for trail work.

2) I should get the hydraulic links, then in the winter, revert to the original side links and put the blower back on.


Thanks for help folks!


Edit: Looking at the Land Pride BB25 66 inch, looks to be 500lbs. I know weight of these is important, the mahindra sd version is 820 lbs at 60 inches, and their hd is 1000lbs.

So is landpride not a good option here? I have also looked at everything attachments and theirs seem a little heavier than LP, but still not as heavy. In my mind its weird the Mahindra one is the most HD?

 

[MHarryE]

Once you get orientation set, unplug top link and tilt link cylinders. Once disconnected they are hydraulically locked - differing volumes on rod and piston ends of cylinder make them physically unable to move. That leaves your valves open for use with blower.

 

[bridge4]

Once you get orientation set, unplug top link and tilt link cylinders. Once disconnected they are hydraulically locked - differing volumes on rod and piston ends of cylinder make them physically unable to move. That leaves your valves open for use with blower.

Thanks, sounds like this can all work together. Appreciate the feedback.

 

[gunny0628]

The only complaint I have with the hydraulic top link is that when you switch to another implement you have to get out and back in the tractor to move the top link in or out for your adjustment just so you can hook up the implement. On the manual top link you don’t have to get back in the tractor. Wish there was a way to do it from outside the tractor.

 

[John_Mc]

The only complaint I have with the hydraulic top link is that when you switch to another implement you have to get out and back in the tractor to move the top link in or out for your adjustment just so you can hook up the implement. On the manual top link you don稚 have to get back in the tractor. Wish there was a way to do it from outside the tractor.

I'm guessing you have a cab on your tractor (which probably makes sense in FL, since you'll want AC). I don't have that issue: No cab, since it would get too beat up in the woods. I just reach over the fender and adjust from the ground. Sooner or later, someone will design a cab with an access window that you can open so you can reach the controls from the ground. Maybe it's possible to add one?

 

[Citydude]

I open the main rear window and can reach the remote levers from the ground while standing by the top link. Does your window open?

The only complaint I have with the hydraulic top link is that when you switch to another implement you have to get out and back in the tractor to move the top link in or out for your adjustment just so you can hook up the implement. On the manual top link you don’t have to get back in the tractor. Wish there was a way to do it from outside the tractor.

 

[oosik]

I have created a few trails on my property. I have ripper shanks on both my LPGS and ROBB. The rippers on the ROBB do a much better job. They will engage and rip out clumps of bunch grass and the occasional sage bush. When the rippers become "full" of foreign material - drive off the trail - lift the ROBB - the foreign material will drop loose - back on the trail and keep going. When all the "ripping" and "sculpting" is done - then I uses the LPGS for final grading and smoothing.

The only down side to my FitRite hydraulic top link - I wish I would have bought it when I bought the new tractor. I waited a few years and finally the frustration of - twist, twist, twist - got to me. Now I make all adjustment "on-the-go". It's a fantastic addition to all land engagement implements.

As far as implement attachments. My Kubota M6040 is open station. I've taken a long chunk of quarter round molding - made a loop on the end. The loop goes over the hydraulic lever controlling the hydraulic top link and extends out back. Either push or pull on the molding to extend/retract the top link as I hook up an implement. Another advantage to open station tractors.

 

[bridge4]

I have created a few trails on my property. I have ripper shanks on both my LPGS and ROBB. The rippers on the ROBB do a much better job. They will engage and rip out clumps of bunch grass and the occasional sage bush. When the rippers become "full" of foreign material - drive off the trail - lift the ROBB - the foreign material will drop loose - back on the trail and keep going. When all the "ripping" and "sculpting" is done - then I uses the LPGS for final grading and smoothing.

The only down side to my FitRite hydraulic top link - I wish I would have bought it when I bought the new tractor. I waited a few years and finally the frustration of - twist, twist, twist - got to me. Now I make all adjustment "on-the-go". It's a fantastic addition to all land engagement implements.

As far as implement attachments. My Kubota M6040 is open station. I've taken a long chunk of quarter round molding - made a loop on the end. The loop goes over the hydraulic lever controlling the hydraulic top link and extends out back. Either push or pull on the molding to extend/retract the top link as I hook up an implement. Another advantage to open station tractors.

Thank you for the first hand experience! This is what I am looking to do with my trails. I have them open and nice width, but need to smooth the floor of the trail. My parents come by frequently and walk, and they aren't getting any younger or more mobil.

I don't have an open station, but my rear window pops open quite a ways, could rig something up.

 

[oosik]

I have a heavy ROBB( roll over box blade ) and LPGS( land plane grading scraper ). Both have manual shanks. If I could only have one - the ROBB. It does tasks the scraper can not do. The ROBB will crown the trail/driveway, clean out the ditches, move material from here to there, etc, as well as smooth things out.

The hydraulic top link is much more useful when coupled with the ROBB. That's because the ROBB is capable of so many varied jobs.