Ordering my B2650 tomorrow or Tuesday, last minute advice?

[s219]

Does the B2650 have the inching 3ph control?

At least on the basic B models, the previous generation (2320, 2620, 2920) was the last to have the quarter-incher. The replacements (2301/2601) have position control.

Premium B models (previous 2x30, 3x30 and current 2650, 3350) have always been position control.

 

[skipperbrown]

Quick attach for sure. I have the 3rd function and 2 remotes. I find the grapple is a nice implement to own. If you get remotes, I'd work to get them mounted like they do for the cab version. Mine hang out the side off the rops and it looks ugly and it is begging for a limb to catch it. In fact, most of the hydraulic lines are poorly protected. It looks like you want the mmm. If it's coming off more than twice a year, you will want to build a dolly to drop it on so you can slide it out without messing with the wheels. With turfs, I clear my 8' door with 1/2" to spare. I wish for a sun canopy but it won't work in my present shop. Yes, it has position control and cruise control although the cruise control is 10x more difficult to use than the cruise on the grand L.

 

[rScotty]

Finally sold my BX23. Thinking about ordering its replacement tomorrow or early next week. The plan is:

- B2650 HST ROPS
- FEL with SSQA, 60" bucket, LP forks
- Third function for future grapple
- 60" mid-mount mower
- Backhoe with 16"bucket
- R4 tires

Debated between R4 and R1 tires; like the idea of the R4 for more stability and puncture resistance. Concerned about traction in mud and snow, especially mud, but I think I'll make it work. Like the look of the R14s a lot, though haven't seen any real reviews yet. But they aren't available yet for this size.*

Starting to think maybe I'll add in the mechanical thumb for the backhoe. Didn't think I'd have much use for it, but I figure maybe it's better to get it now just in case.*

Any general buying advice I should be aware of?

Thanks

I like everything on your list - especially the R4s and the thumb. R4s have a lot more stability. You have to experience it to appreciate. Especially if you have a backhoe attachment. You are right about less traction...but also less tearing of the soil and grass You can make the traction work, but dealing with the ruts left by R1s in lawns is much more difficult. If you have a real delicate lawn or do a lot of mowing I'd at least consider turf tires. Turfs have decent traction on dry surfaces, but traction is not what a turf tire is about. R1s do work a little better in mud or dry snow, but how much of that do you do? Truth is that in bad mud or wet snow Nothing works great except chains. The other truth is that no matter how little traction you have, it is hard to get stuck on a tractor.... and it will always do more work than by hand.

We found that our backhoe with the thumb makes the tractor into a completely different type of machine. We use the thumb all the time to pick up and place things ranging from moving logs & brush to stacking boulders to build a stone wall. We don't actually do much trench digging with the hoe. We use the more like a long stong arm. Excellent for landscaping & even gardening. I've posted this picture before, but it shows what I mean.

Do they offere the SSQA for the FEL loader bucket? If so, I'd certainly want that. It's not expensive. Manual operation is fine for that.

rScotty

 

[oldballs]

That's interesting (rScotty) that you mentioned the other uses for a backhoe. Although I don't have one, I had just thought of the backhoe as being a trench digger. The OP should be looking forward to the other uses.

 

[goeduck]

That's interesting (rScotty) that you mentioned the other uses for a backhoe. Although I don't have one, I had just thought of the backhoe as being a trench digger. The OP should be looking forward to the other uses.

Yes. Backhoes are excellent for hoisting and placing things into position. :thumbsup:

 

[PaulL2]

It looks like you want the mmm. If it's coming off more than twice a year, you will want to build a dolly to drop it on so you can slide it out without messing with the wheels.

People on the internet say that the 72 inch is drive over, can't work out whether the 60 inch is. The brochure doesn't seem to say for either that it's drive over. But all they really do is provide metal pulley covers - so if it has metal pulley covers I'd say you can drive over it. And as always, I presume you can use the loader to lift the front wheels to get it out without turning the casters.

 

[SDT]

Does the B2650 have the inching 3ph control?

Cannot seem to find out what models have it without going to a dealer and looking.

Ralph

The B2650 has position control.

SDT

 

[SDT]

People on the internet say that the 72 inch is drive over, can't work out whether the 60 inch is. The brochure doesn't seem to say for either that it's drive over. But all they really do is provide metal pulley covers - so if it has metal pulley covers I'd say you can drive over it. And as always, I presume you can use the loader to lift the front wheels to get it out without turning the casters.

Removing the MMM is not difficult.

I find that trying to drive over is a real PITA but simply driving the tractor onto 4 short pieces of 2X6/8/10 raises the tractor enough to allow the MMM to be rolled in/out from the right side. I do this with both my B1750 with 60" MMM and my B3350 with 72" MMM. I can mount/dismount either in about 15-20 minutes. You may need two layers of wood if you have your gage wheels set low in order to mow high (or simply raise them before dismounting the deck).

Yes, you could probably raise the front of the tractor enough with the FEL but I always remove all FELS each spring when I set my tractors up for mowing. Doing it this way may still require a layer of wood under the rear tires.

SDT

 

[PaulL2]

I find that trying to drive over is a real PITA but simply driving the tractor onto a 4 short pieces of 2X6/8/10 raises the tractor enough to allow the MMM to be rolled in/out from the right side.

I'm the opposite with the BX. I don't have enough shed space to do it on the hard, so I usually do it on the lawn. Pulling the MMM out sideways is hard because of the lawn, and often makes gouges in it. Whereas lifting the front wheels with the loader is very easy on the lawn (couple blocks of wood under front of the bucket to avoid it digging in), and easy to roll the mower forwards. Horses for courses I guess. I think the B2601 style drive over would work quite well on the lawn - the lawn would stop it from sliding around, and no messing with the loader to lift the front wheels. Loader on/off is only a couple of minutes anyway, even less when I get the new B2601 with the manifold coupler - the hoses are on the side of the loader closest to the shed wall, so it's a wriggle to get in to them.

 

[skipperbrown]

My 60" mmm is not a drive over. It's a wrench your back, weasel out from the side model. The lift is a max of about 5" due to the space limitations under the step hanger.