3-Point Hitch YM2210 3 point hydraulic adjustment help

[Fire260]

Hi Guys,
Just got me a YM2210 , I got it knowing that the 3-point didn稚 work and the old guy didn稚 know how to fix it. So I took it apart and found some junk in the control valve,put it back together and BAM now I have a working 3-point, now I知 trying to get it adjusted right. I have a Couple manuals that came with it but does not show my valve that is on this tractor, so what is happening is if I get the 3-point to go down at a nice speed then when I go up with it the 3-point will start to bounce up and down and if I let it the tractor will start bouncing. The only way to stop it is to close the slow return valve, I can稚 seem to find the happy medium. Any help is much appreciated .
Thanks for your time and help.

 

[winston1]

Sounds like your lift piston, control valve or something is leaking badly, therefore your lift is constantly trying to maintain the set height. If you raise your lift with a load, close the stop valve and kill the tractor, how fast does the lift fall? Or does it?

 

[Fire260]

Sounds like your lift piston, control valve or something is leaking badly, therefore your lift is constantly trying to maintain the set height. If you raise your lift with a load, close the stop valve and kill the tractor, how fast does the lift fall? Or does it?

Hello, lift arms have no drift, it won’t come down unless I push the lever to make it go down, it will stay up all night with stop valve open. Thanks for your help.

 

[clemsonfor]

Don't close the stop valve while to r running, you can ruin the hydraulic pump. All I can say is make sure the linkages are correct

 

[winston1]

Ok, another thought. There is a rod that goes from the end of the rockshaft to the control valve shaft. It is a feedback rod used to stop the lift from over extending. Is it possible yours is out of adjustment. Should be adjusted to stop lift right before lift piston bottoms out. It has a turnbuckle on it used for adjustment.

 

[Fire260]

Don't close the stop valve while to r running, you can ruin the hydraulic pump. All I can say is make sure the linkages are correct

Thanks for the heads up on the stop valve.. would you know what the linkage should be set at? The manuals that I have don稚 show the setup that I have. The manual says it痴 for the 2210&2210D my control valve is on the side not on the top like most of the ones I see. Thanks for the help.

 

[Fire260]

Ok, another thought. There is a rod that goes from the end of the rockshaft to the control valve shaft. It is a feedback rod used to stop the lift from over extending. Is it possible yours is out of adjustment. Should be adjusted to stop lift right before lift piston bottoms out. It has a turnbuckle on it used for adjustment.

I have messed with it and “I think” I have it right . So on the control valve there is a “T” bracket that is adjustable on one of the spool valve “I think that’s what it is called “ the feedback rod goes to the bottom and the leaver that you move goes to the top. The T-bracket that is adjustable,you think this could be out of adjustment? Because if that is out of adjustment I would think that the valve would be diverting oil some place it shouldn’t and this is causing it to bounce, If that makes sense .
Thanks for your help.

 

[Fire260]

This is a pic of the control valve,this is on the inside of the side cover,you can see the T that I was talking about, anyone know the adjustment of this? .
THANKS for your time and help!

 

[clemsonfor]

Thanks for the heads up on the stop valve.. would you know what the linkage should be set at? The manuals that I have don稚 show the setup that I have. The manual says it痴 for the 2210&2210D my control valve is on the side not on the top like most of the ones I see. Thanks for the help.

I don't, I have a 2000. Aaron at Hoye may be able to post something when he is back in the office next week if he sees this. Or if someone who has that tractor checks in and can take a pic. Scotty Dive has one I know.

 

[Fire260]

I don't, I have a 2000. Aaron at Hoye may be able to post something when he is back in the office next week if he sees this. Or if someone who has that tractor checks in and can take a pic. Scotty Dive has one I know.

Funny thing is the manuals that came with the tractor are from Hoye and they show nothing about this valve,it show the one that bolts on top of the 3-point, I did get a manual off of eBay that shows the valve I have ,but don’t tell you how to adjust it.
Well Sir thank you for trying to help me:thumbsup: ,Have a good one, I think I will go and replace the brakes on it now and get it ready for some paint:cool2:

 

[winston1]

I suspicion that valve is not used on any of the American sold models and therefore you will not find a service manual for it. the 220/226 models and 276 have side mounted valves but not like yours.

 

[shovelrider]

It seems to me, that if that rod is adjusted from the orig. start or factory. That it has to be from somewhere else, to cause this reaction. Like was mentioned, a leak down from another valve. Maybe leaking around the o-ring in main valve. I wouldn't adj. that rod(unless you mark it from where you started from. Just in case, it's not it. Make sence?

 

[Fire260]

I suspicion that valve is not used on any of the American sold models and therefore you will not find a service manual for it. the 220/226 models and 276 have side mounted valves but not like yours.

That's what I’m afraid of, this is a brake down of my valve, found this pic on another post. Doné�ž mind the red lines,that from the original poster .

 

[winston1]

Sent you a pm.

 

[Fire260]

:thumbsup: .....

 

[Fire260]

It seems to me, that if that rod is adjusted from the orig. start or factory. That it has to be from somewhere else, to cause this reaction. Like was mentioned, a leak down from another valve. Maybe leaking around the o-ring in main valve. I wouldn't adj. that rod(unless you mark it from where you started from. Just in case, it's not it. Make sence?

Everything that I have taken apart that had O-rings all look good ,in the main valve there痴 one small o-ring and one small nylon washer and that痴 it ,everything else is metal to metal .Someone definitely messed with this before I did, I can tell from the paint missing on the bolts, on the control valve,I took pictures with a micrometer so I would know how it went back together. I still think the T bar on valve is my problem,just wish I had an idea where to send it . Thanks for trying to help me.

 

[CoyPatton]

Everything that I have taken apart that had O-rings all look good ,in the main valve there痴 one small o-ring and one small nylon washer and that痴 it ,everything else is metal to metal .Someone definitely messed with this before I did, I can tell from the paint missing on the bolts, on the control valve,I took pictures with a micrometer so I would know how it went back together. I still think the T bar on valve is my problem,just wish I had an idea where to send it . Thanks for trying to help me.

Unfortunately, since you are positive someone has been in there before l, you really have no ideal what might have been done.
Might I suggest replace the O-ring and nylon washer, they could easily have wear that allows a pressure drop. I would also suggest a close examination, if you have not, for wear on the metal to metal parts. Unfortunately, specs on these is hard to come by. Again Aaron at Hoye is one of the best resources I have found.
I would also suggest the ym owners group with Hoye. Hopefully, Aaron will pickup your thread tomorrow (Tuesday after labor day) or soon thereafter.
Another suggestion would be to clean the hydraulic screen and replace the filter (if equipped) if you have not done so. A restriction on either of these could reduce your flow rate enough to cause issues. As down force is controlled more by weight, gravity, and open valve status and not pressure or flow rate, it would be not be influenced by a clogged filter/screen.
A final suggestion since you have no ideal where to go, is if you decide to adjust on your T bar is to take slow adjustments and check for changes.

 

[Fire260]

Unfortunately, since you are positive someone has been in there before l, you really have no ideal what might have been done.
Might I suggest replace the O-ring and nylon washer, they could easily have wear that allows a pressure drop. I would also suggest a close examination, if you have not, for wear on the metal to metal parts. Unfortunately, specs on these is hard to come by. Again Aaron at Hoye is one of the best resources I have found.
I would also suggest the ym owners group with Hoye. Hopefully, Aaron will pickup your thread tomorrow (Tuesday after labor day) or soon thereafter.
Another suggestion would be to clean the hydraulic screen and replace the filter (if equipped) if you have not done so. A restriction on either of these could reduce your flow rate enough to cause issues. As down force is controlled more by weight, gravity, and open valve status and not pressure or flow rate, it would be not be influenced by a clogged filter/screen.
A final suggestion since you have no ideal where to go, is if you decide to adjust on your T bar is to take slow adjustments and check for changes.

I will see if I can get the o-ring and washer, I pulled the screen looks new nothing in it at all, I went ahead and replaced the fluid so I know that is good. Thanks for all the input and help. Well on a side note I pulled my brakes to replace them, was told I probably should replace them, but dang they have more material then the replacements that I got ,so that’s a good thing,just needed to be adjusted.

 

[CoyPatton]

I will see if I can get the o-ring and washer, I pulled the screen looks new nothing in it at all, I went ahead and replaced the fluid so I know that is good. Thanks for all the input and help. Well on a side note I pulled my brakes to replace them, was told I probably should replace them, but dang they have more material then the replacements that I got ,so that’s a good thing,just needed to be adjusted.

Wow those brakes look like new. Probably never been adjusted. Mine work but probably need to do free play adjustments on brakes and clutch.

 

[Fire260]

Wow those brakes look like new. Probably never been adjusted. Mine work but probably need to do free play adjustments on brakes and clutch.

I couldn’t believe it, I was like WOW, no need to mess with them,both sides looked the same.