Rear Inverted Snowblowers 2019

[leonz]

Truth be told and for what its worth the finish you have there is very good for pavement.
Any county or town high department would be jealous of what you have
there without salting it.

I know you have spent a lot of money already and the finish is not what you want to see but
the only other option is a tight scrape with a plow blade mounted on your loader frame.

The problem is that once you start scraping with a plow that is not supported by skids is that
you will develop ice patches and that is never good AND you will dig in to the new asphalt mat
that you had poured this year.

The only way to have bare pavement is to invest in a salt spreader and calcium chloride but
that will create other issues over time.

The other option is a rear blade BUT you will have more wear on the asphalt every year.

You have the best of both worlds right now with your current snow cover. Your snow will not
melt as quickly as the asphalt is not exposed to the sun and your cars can still grip the driveway
as long as you have snow tires and or tube sand for ballast weight.


We do envy your good looking driveway for what its worth.

 

[leonz]

You will end up tearing up the driveway if you remove the side skids and raise the cutting edge.

 

[OrangeMuscle]

Thank you Leonz for the insight and compliment. The layer of snow left behind on our driveway is like a polished ice rink. The hills are treacherous. A few nights ago I had to spend an hour getting the idiotic UPS driver off my hill at 8 oclock at night. He chewed up all my nice new sides. And the mailman lost it on another hill. UPS guy is a fool for not recognizing that a rear wheel drive vehicle with no weight at the end of his shift would climb a hill that was white. I know because I drove a UPS truck for 22 years.

When I see that every plow tuck out there on the front of pickups scrape right down to the asphalt revealing nice black on the first pass, it hard for me to process the few people on here who have said my results look good.

 

[Hilbilly]

Looking at the last set of pics, I can see that the shoes are adjustable but they are as high as they can go with the current setting. Another thing you could try is to unbolt the Tyvar skids from the shoes or remove the shoes. Then the whole blower weight would be riding on the cross slide. Just have to be careful that the skids don't end up hitting the pavement, when the cross slide wears down.

 

[Reb954]

As Hillbilly said, the Tyvar skids are so thick they are holding the blower up. You can either take the Tyvar skids off or drill some extra holes in the sides of the shoes so the blower will sit lower in relation to the skids.

If you drill the extra height adjustment holes, follow the same pattern that they have now and go down 2 more holes. That should give you about an inch more adjustment which should be plenty. You probably only need a half inch though.

 

[ruffdog]

Those big and flat UHMW pavement protection pads are going to float on snow. To get down to the pavement, you need to do some scraping.

 

[jpm]

Here are pics of mine with out teflon. The scraper is maybe a 1/2 below the shoes . It does leave some snow behind but it is the same or better than my blade

 

[Boondox]

Those big and flat UHMW pavement protection pads are going to float on snow. To get down to the pavement, you need to do some scraping.

I have the 78" Meteor, same as OM, except mine has the optional rear scraper. With it in the raised position and the skid shoes all the way up I get the same results as he does, but because my 300 yard driveway is gravel I'm happy with leaving a thin layer of snow behind early in the season so I have a base of packed snow/ice between the blower and the gravel. Once I have that base the rear scraper comes down and the results are very impressive. The one caveat is that at the end of a run I need to raise the blower, back up a couple feet, lower it and blow the large mound of snow left behind by the scraper blade

Pete

 

[Piston]

On the next snowstorm, try removing the skid shoes altogether, so that all the weight of the blower is on the cutting edge. Just me mindful that the steel sides of the blower aren’t digging into the pavement.
This will certainly increase the likelihood of getting the results you want.

If it works, then drill some new, lower, holes in your skid shoe mounting brackets. Or even better, have a machine at cut out a long, vertical section of steel connecting all the holes (so you have infinite adjustability rather than signal adjustment holes) and adjust the skids so they are slightly higher than the cutting edge.

 

[MJ1964]

On the next snowstorm, try removing the skid shoes altogether, so that all the weight of the blower is on the cutting edge. Just me mindful that the steel sides of the blower aren稚 digging into the pavement.
This will certainly increase the likelihood of getting the results you want.

If it works, then drill some new, lower, holes in your skid shoe mounting brackets. Or even better, have a machine at cut out a long, vertical section of steel connecting all the holes (so you have infinite adjustability rather than signal adjustment holes) and adjust the skids so they are slightly higher than the cutting edge.

I have 2 Meteor PT blowers. A 60" for an asphalt driveway and a 78" for a gravel road. The big difference for my set up between the two is how I adjust the top link. I run the top link "long" on the gravel so i don't pull in debris, especially early in the season. On pavement I run the top link "short" so it cuts down better. Much like how you adjust a box blade. I'm not sure if your skids will prevent any noticeable effect, but it's worth playing with.