Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,481  
Went to Flailmaster yesterday to get a fill set of spare blades and d-rings for both JD390 and JD25A. At first my wife said they only had 75 of the FM-7 blades left so i said to buy all of them. She then texted that they actually had about 12,000 of the FM-7. So i revised my order from all to just 84. May decide to buy another set of 84 just in case. Will be very sorry to see them close.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,482  
I took the new-to-me Caroni TM1900 out for a spin. Just a shake down cruise.

I got some lower bushings to make it fit on the quick hitch and used the y-yoke adapter on the top since the TM1900 isn't quick hitch compatible. Kinda fit OK.

Well, the mower seems to work just fine. This is my first PTO powered attachment, so it was a learning curve. Getting the PTO attached was more work than it should have been. Wouldn't slide together and I thought I was spinning the shaft to get them to align, but apparently not. I gave the PTO clutch some power so it would stop in a different location and it slid together just fine. Live and learn.

The first thing I did was check for PTO interference with the quick hitch. Yep, that don't work too well. I can't lower the flail all the way without hitting the PTO on the top cross bar. Darn! I went out and cut some briars with the flail floating a few inches off the ground. Worked fine. Not bad for a used piece of equipment. Looks like I need to find a solution for the PTO/quick hitch interference or run without the quick hitch.

No pictures. I'll see if I can work with it some more tomorrow.


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Hello Michael In Tennessee,


If I have not done it already I want to welcome you as the newest resident member of the "Flail Mower Nations" from the great State of Tennessee.

If you have not done it already can you extend the lower link arms out further??? that will help some.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,483  
Forget the quick hitch. And running with the mower up off the ground is not good.

I'm curious why you say "running with the mower up off the ground is not good"?

I clip my pastures and I seldom cut them shorter than 8" and I do not have any issues with my flail mower, however if the roller is on the ground the highest I can cut is less than 5".

Carey
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,484  
=======================================================================================

Hello Michael In Tennessee,


If I have not done it already I want to welcome you as the newest resident member of the "Flail Mower Nations" from the great State of Tennessee.

If you have not done it already can you extend the lower link arms out further??? that will help some.

You did. I also sent you a private message asking for the Caroni owners manual.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,485  
I'm curious why you say "running with the mower up off the ground is not good"?

I clip my pastures and I seldom cut them shorter than 8" and I do not have any issues with my flail mower, however if the roller is on the ground the highest I can cut is less than 5".

Carey

Reasonable question Carey -- It was my opinion. I said it because the flail mowers are designed to be used with the roller on the ground, controlling the distance between the knives and the vegetation or soil or whatever. My use of the flail mower is on a wide variety of ground that is generally not smooth, usually has ruts and has mainly "pasturefield" characteristics rather than landscaped turf areas. If I ran the mower suspended from my 3pt hitch and not riding the ground then I am contributing/adding to the already nuisance level of 'bounce' at my seat which is unavoidable AND the mower will be constantly changing in ground clearance, thus producing a cut that varies in height and looks like crap. Anyway, that is my reasoning.

I too have a question: Prefaced by saying of course we each have individual circumstances and preferences that differ... but why do you want to cut 8" and higher ? If I bother to cut a section of land at all, spending time, fuel and wear and tear, then I want to cut it shorter than 8".
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,486  
Reasonable question Carey -- It was my opinion. I said it because the flail mowers are designed to be used with the roller on the ground, controlling the distance between the knives and the vegetation or soil or whatever. My use of the flail mower is on a wide variety of ground that is generally not smooth, usually has ruts and has mainly "pasturefield" characteristics rather than landscaped turf areas. If I ran the mower suspended from my 3pt hitch and not riding the ground then I am contributing/adding to the already nuisance level of 'bounce' at my seat which is unavoidable AND the mower will be constantly changing in ground clearance, thus producing a cut that varies in height and looks like crap. Anyway, that is my reasoning.

I too have a question: Prefaced by saying of course we each have individual circumstances and preferences that differ... but why do you want to cut 8" and higher ? If I bother to cut a section of land at all, spending time, fuel and wear and tear, then I want to cut it shorter than 8".

I graze the pastures and that seems to leave a good amount of grass for grazing and still keeps the weeds from taking over.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,487  
I graze the pastures and that seems to leave a good amount of grass for grazing and still keeps the weeds from taking over.

Sure. Logical for your situation.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,488  
I bought a 7' Ford 917 in the fall. I was only able to mow with it a few times before winter.

I used it behind my old, beat up Massey 150. That should have 38 hp at the PTO.

38 hp is definitely not enough. Not even close really. Since it's a Cat 1...wouldn't that top out at 45 hp??? I'm not sure 45 hp would be enough, honestly.

So, what gives? I need a 4x4 tractor anyways, but don't know where to start. How much HP do I need??? Certainly Ford wouldn't make a Cat 1 implement that needs 50+ hp... Would they?
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,489  
I bought a 7' Ford 917 in the fall. I was only able to mow with it a few times before winter.

I used it behind my old, beat up Massey 150. That should have 38 hp at the PTO.

38 hp is definitely not enough. Not even close really. Since it's a Cat 1...wouldn't that top out at 45 hp??? I'm not sure 45 hp would be enough, honestly.

So, what gives? I need a 4x4 tractor anyways, but don't know where to start. How much HP do I need??? Certainly Ford wouldn't make a Cat 1 implement that needs 50+ hp... Would they?

As with SO MANY THINGS ...it depends.

It depends on
a) How tough the growth is, i.e. the TYPE of vegetation you are mowing
b) How recently it was cut
c) How fast you try to get through it.
d) and of course how much acreage you are dealing with and how much time you can budget for it.

SOME combination of these variables may work for you - even with little more than a garden tractorette.

If you have it why not mount it and take a test mow ?
See if you can do an acceptable area in some reasonable amount of time - whatever that may be to you.
Do the arithmetic to figure out what it will take to do it ALL - take a guess at if you could cut that
time down by going up a gear or two once it is under control, i.e. maintenance mowing can be a lot
faster than clearing mowing.
.
Just buying a bigger tractor without a benchmark of what your 38 can do with that mower on YOUR land
against YOUR vegetation ...seems foolhardy (to ME).
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #6,490  
I bought a 7' Ford 917 in the fall. I was only able to mow with it a few times before winter.

I used it behind my old, beat up Massey 150. That should have 38 hp at the PTO.

38 hp is definitely not enough. Not even close really. Since it's a Cat 1...wouldn't that top out at 45 hp??? I'm not sure 45 hp would be enough, honestly.

So, what gives? I need a 4x4 tractor anyways, but don't know where to start. How much HP do I need??? Certainly Ford wouldn't make a Cat 1 implement that needs 50+ hp... Would they?

As with SO MANY THINGS ...it depends.

It depends on
a) How tough the growth is, i.e. the TYPE of vegetation you are mowing
b) How recently it was cut
c) How fast you try to get through it.
d) and of course how much acreage you are dealing with and how much time you can budget for it.

SOME combination of these variables may work for you - even with little more than a garden tractorette.

If you have it why not mount it and take a test mow ?
See if you can do an acceptable area in some reasonable amount of time - whatever that may be to you.
Do the arithmetic to figure out what it will take to do it ALL - take a guess at if you could cut that
time down by going up a gear or two once it is under control, i.e. maintenance mowing can be a lot
faster than clearing mowing.
.
Just buying a bigger tractor without a benchmark of what your 38 can do with that mower on YOUR land
against YOUR vegetation ...seems foolhardy (to ME).
 
 

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