Read Mikester’s reply in post# 39. What causes instability in tractors is when we attach a loader on the front or implements on the rear three point. When we do this we turn the tractor into a unstable machine because we raise either the rear or front wheels off the ground which basically converts a four wheel work machine into a two wheel work machine. Adding ballast to either the front or rear, depending on which end is causing the instability, loader or implement returns stability to the tractor.
BX2380 tipping concerns
- Thread starter Andrew2019
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Read Mikester’s reply in post# 39. What causes instability in tractors is when we attach a loader on the front or implements on the rear three point. When we do this we turn the tractor into a unstable machine because we raise either the rear or front wheels off the ground which basically converts a four wheel work machine into a two wheel work machine. Adding ballast to either the front or rear, depending on which end is causing the instability, loader or implement returns stability to the tractor.
JWR
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Not really. The JD, New Holland and MF brands of similar size are very little different in this regard. The main parameters are the height of the center of gravity (c.g.) of the machine and the distance between contacting points on the ground of the rear wheels. The wider the wheels are spread the less chance of tipping. The lower the c.g. the less chance too. The c.g. is usually not known and just estimated. Raising the FEL raises the c.g. of the overall machine and worse yet provides a lever for the weight in the FEL to use in torque tending to tip the machine over. As a practical matter most of us have had a load in the FEL high enough to be less stable and moving to sloped ground or running into a hole on the lower side, etc. have seen it begin to tip. If going slow you feel it coming on and can counteract the tipping with your own body weight so long as you don't move too fast and let it get out of control. If you do not already have that experience, you can and probably should, experiment and play around with it under more controlled circumstances. Maybe good to have a spotter or helper ready to step on to the high side and prevent further tipping action during the experiment if needed. The most common brands in the BX2380 size range mentioned above are about what you will see everywhere. There exist VERY low c.g. machines such as the Swiss made Abe brand which I have seen on incredible hillsides. They are made with such a low c.g. that the driver actually sits beside the engine. I've never seen a FEL on an Abe as they are designed mainly for cutting very steep hillsides. Probably a few others exist but none common.
As others have said, the quickest thing you can do to restore stability is to lower the bucket by moving the loader valve stick forward. Provides near instant recovery.
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Jim Nelson
Platinum Member
I ran heavy equipment for over 35 years and the main thing I learned in this time is there is no exception for time in the seat. Everyone is insecure in a new situation. I have operated everything from a D3 Cat to a 25 yard shovel and everything is different.The scariest machine I ever ran the first time was a D9L dozer. Because of the high track design with the operators station high, it felt like it was going to tip every time you moved at first. After a short time it became the most stable feeling machine I ever ran.All the engine and running gear was low in the frame and the the c.o.g. was very low but the operators station is high which gives the illusion of tipping.
Fallon
Super Member
JWR is pretty much on the money. However the front wheels really dont have much to do with stability. The front axle is on a simple pivot which doesnt provide any lateral stability. It's barely better than a tricycle. If the rear end ever comes off the ground, its balancing on that 1 pivot & will roll to one side or another pretty much instantly.
That goes for every brand tractor & pretty much any tractor short of an articulated one. The wider the rear tires are, the more stable the tractor. Proper ballast on the back of the machine means that the rear axle has weight on it to maintain stability (among other reasons).
That goes for every brand tractor & pretty much any tractor short of an articulated one. The wider the rear tires are, the more stable the tractor. Proper ballast on the back of the machine means that the rear axle has weight on it to maintain stability (among other reasons).
RaydaKub
Veteran Member
As all the others have pointed out, your experience is completely normal. The more weight on the solid rear axle, the better off you'll be.
I've posted this before in a few other threads, but I'll relate my experiment with my BX on my hillside.
I was set up in full-dig mode. I had 265 lbs on the 3pt, 50 lbs in weights on each rear tire and about 90 lbs fluid in each rear tire, no spacers. I had the bucket on and down low, but at 23 degrees, it still felt tippy. I got off (carefully!) and went to the high side. I pushed on the ROPS with one hand and lifted the rear wheel. I went back to the garage, dropped the 3pt weight, took off the wheel weights and loader, then went back to the same place on the hillside. It didn't feel tippy. I got off again and pushed on the ROPS with both hands and could not lift the rear wheel.
The loader on the BX weighs about 400 lbs and much of that is out front. So not only do you have 400 lbs on the tippy front axle, but the amount of weight transferred forward due to leverage is also significant. Most people under estimate the effect this has on stability. Ballast on the 3pt is an absolute necessity, and it needs to be just about as much as the loader and contents.
I've posted this before in a few other threads, but I'll relate my experiment with my BX on my hillside.
I was set up in full-dig mode. I had 265 lbs on the 3pt, 50 lbs in weights on each rear tire and about 90 lbs fluid in each rear tire, no spacers. I had the bucket on and down low, but at 23 degrees, it still felt tippy. I got off (carefully!) and went to the high side. I pushed on the ROPS with one hand and lifted the rear wheel. I went back to the garage, dropped the 3pt weight, took off the wheel weights and loader, then went back to the same place on the hillside. It didn't feel tippy. I got off again and pushed on the ROPS with both hands and could not lift the rear wheel.
The loader on the BX weighs about 400 lbs and much of that is out front. So not only do you have 400 lbs on the tippy front axle, but the amount of weight transferred forward due to leverage is also significant. Most people under estimate the effect this has on stability. Ballast on the 3pt is an absolute necessity, and it needs to be just about as much as the loader and contents.
OP
Andrew2019
New member
Hi RaydaKub
Thanks for the reply and insight.
Your situation seems the exact same as mine. I was a little shocked that I could almost tip it with one hand. I have about 300+ lbs of sand in the ballast box but I am thinking on making that between 350 and 400 lbs of bricks.
I believe that is still not overloading the 3 point hitch which I think is rated for 420 lbs max
Thanks for the reply and insight.
Your situation seems the exact same as mine. I was a little shocked that I could almost tip it with one hand. I have about 300+ lbs of sand in the ballast box but I am thinking on making that between 350 and 400 lbs of bricks.
I believe that is still not overloading the 3 point hitch which I think is rated for 420 lbs max
RaydaKub
Veteran Member
You're welcome. It's stuff like this that makes TBN such a valuable resource. I've gotten advice from others. We all learn as we go.
I got some New Holland skid steer weights that I added to my weight bar a couple years ago. 3x56 lbs added to the ~265 puts it at ~433. There's no problem lifting that. Yours is new; mine is 1200 hours and 15 years old. I bet yours would take over 600 pretty easily. You aren't going to hurt it. Either it lifts it or it doesn't. If it doesn't, you know it's too much and you'll hear the relief valve open. If it lifts it, you can use it.