Bucket rolled backwards

[Deere Dude]

I had to replace one seal and found the nut was half spun off, in other words was not tightened securely. I decided to take the other cylinder apart even though it was good and that nun was also loose. Then they got Locktited on. Quality goes in before the name goes on, no doubt. Hope your is that simple.

 

[rScotty]

Well I started taking the hoses off & noticed the left drains no oil so I pushed the rod up & oil shot out telling me it seemed to hold pressure.

I remembered the right cylinder draining out yesterday. So I left that one and went to the right. When I took it off I could hear something rattling.

The rod pulled straight out of the cylinder, threads were stripped.

Now the nut & packer is still in the cylinder with no idea how to fish out??? This keeps getting better & better. Heading to JD place to price cylinder & get options on what to do.

View attachment 636507

Let us know what the JD dealer says. You always have the option of going to surpluscenter.com and buying cylinders. Got to make sure of ends and fittings, though.
Sometimes a replacement set is a better way to go than a rebuild.
rScotty

 

[Kfbeal]

Is there an easy way to remove the gland? I removed the snap ring, inserted the plastic insert into the slot but no way to get it out?

I’ve rebuilt these a few times in the past & had to hit the rod end to remove it. Hopefully I’m not the reason this failed.

 

[Kfbeal]

Let us know what the JD dealer says. You always have the option of going to surpluscenter.com and buying cylinders. Got to make sure of ends and fittings, though.
Sometimes a replacement set is a better way to go than a rebuild.
rScotty

The rod price ranges from $200/$800 depending on the cylinder.

The cylinder cost showed to be $700. Evidently they have multiple cylinder types.

They said the hydraulic shop can fix the threads, I may try that this week.

 

[ovrszd]

Is there an easy way to remove the gland? I removed the snap ring, inserted the plastic insert into the slot but no way to get it out?

I’ve rebuilt these a few times in the past & had to hit the rod end to remove it. Hopefully I’m not the reason this failed.

I'm struggling to understand this?

In my small world, the gland is the o-ringed slug inside the cylinder. It has a hole in the center that the rod goes thru. Then the nut is applied to fasten it to the rod.

How about a picture so we understand what you are dealing with? There are a couple different ways the cylinder is assembled. Some are simply held together by a snap-ring. Some are threaded together. Not sure which you have? Maybe someone can confirm what you have?

 

[ptsg]

I'm struggling to understand this?

In my small world, the gland is the o-ringed slug inside the cylinder. It has a hole in the center that the rod goes thru. Then the nut is applied to fasten it to the rod.

How about a picture so we understand what you are dealing with? There are a couple different ways the cylinder is assembled. Some are simply held together by a snap-ring. Some are threaded together. Not sure which you have? Maybe someone can confirm what you have?

To me this is the gland:



And this the piston:

 

[ovrszd]

To me this is the gland:

View attachment 636586View attachment 636589

And this the piston:

View attachment 636588View attachment 636587

Thanks for the clarity.

So your gland is either held in place with a snap ring or screws in. The snap ring usually spins into the barrel by turning the gland. The screw in type comes out by spinning the gland.

Again,,,, pictures would be great.

Or,,,,,, go to Kubota parts and attach a pic of the parts involved in the cylinder. They will show us how it's assembled.

 

[RickB]

To me this is the gland:

View attachment 636586View attachment 636589

And this the piston:

View attachment 636588View attachment 636587

It’s that way in my world as well.

 

[Kfbeal]

This is on a JD 512 loader. There is an external snap ring keeping the gland from going into the cylinder. To remove, you drive the gland in & insert a plastic ring (in seal kit) in a groove inside the cylinder where the external snap ring on the gland locks in.

Here’s a pic from when I’ve rebuilt these before.

 

[wdchyd]

If an inside puller is not avail to you there痴 a way to pop that gland head out using hyd force. First make sure retainer ring is out (and use the plastic groove filler if needed), then cap off both cylinder ports, then stand up cyl barrel on the floor and fill with water within 1-2 of top, insert hyd rod end and slam it with a good sized dead blow hammer. If all goes well the gland will pop out