Bucket rolled backwards

[rScotty]

I've been following along. After a few years of tractoring you will get more comfortable with hydraulics. All part of the tractor hobby. The nice thing about hydraulic cylinders is that they are usually simple to repair and real satisfying to go from something barely working at all to something working like new - all for not much money.

And if hydraulic repair doesn't ring your chimes = most rural towns that have a tractor dealer also have a small hydraulic repair shop. It's often a one person small shop.We've got a good one locally. They will rebuild a cylinder so reasonably its hardly worth doing it yourself.

The 512 is a nice little loader, and very popular....but it's not very heavily built. Although to be fair, even an industrial loader isn't going to stand up to pushing forward with the lip pointing down. On the plus side, if you google the JD 512 loader you will find plenty of illustrations of parts, people selling kits, & articles on parts and upgrades.

Sometimes it's a better deal to just upgrade the cylinder. Especially so if the rods are bent or the cylinder is bulged. Aftermarket cylinders are surprisingly inexpensive. You can get thicker cylinder walls & larger diameter rods & if you keep the inside areas the same or close it will work the same. I'm a fan of bushed ends, and of end caps/glands that unscrew to replace the outer dust seal and O ring. Many cylinders use universal parts. The biggest problem I've found with aftermarket cylinders is getting one that has the input and output ports pointing the right way to fit the hoses. There are common adapters for threads and bushings.

rScotty

 

[davedj1]

If and when you get the gland/piston out, install new O-rings and gland I wouldn't hesitate to re use those threads, run a die over them, add some loctite of you favorite color (I would go with red) and put it back together, I'm betting it will last a good long time if you don't repeat what you did to damage it.

 

[TractorGuy]

This is on a JD 512 loader. There is an external snap ring keeping the gland from going into the cylinder. To remove, you drive the gland in & insert a plastic ring (in seal kit) in a groove inside the cylinder where the external snap ring on the gland locks in.

Here痴 a pic from when I致e rebuilt these before.

View attachment 636618View attachment 636619

Get a piece of smaller diameter rod longer than the piston rod. Weld a bolt to the end that will accept a washer just a little smaller than the threaded end of the piston rod. Put the washer on and double nut the bolt. Feed it up through the piston and let the washer drop down to grab the piston. Use that as a slide hammer to remove the gland and piston. If you can find a rod long enough with a threaded end or all thread you can skip the welding part.

I installed generic cross cylinders on my old 420 loader. You may have to compromise on the exact length or stroke a little but for the difference in price it was worth doing for me.

 

[Kfbeal]

Thanks to everyone for the replies & ideas. Tried the hydraulic method but the caps I picked up didn’t fit on the cylinder to cap off the ports so I’ll try again tomorrow.

We have some large all thread I can use if I can find a washer to fit. That’s a good idea.

Reckon I can use a die over the threads or need to get someone professional to do it?

 

[Kfbeal]

Get a piece of smaller diameter rod longer than the piston rod. Weld a bolt to the end that will accept a washer just a little smaller than the threaded end of the piston rod. Put the washer on and double nut the bolt. Feed it up through the piston and let the washer drop down to grab the piston. Use that as a slide hammer to remove the gland and piston. If you can find a rod long enough with a threaded end or all thread you can skip the welding part.

I installed generic cross cylinders on my old 420 loader. You may have to compromise on the exact length or stroke a little but for the difference in price it was worth doing for me.

Should I have to replace a cylinder, even in the future, where did you pick your cylinders up at?

 

[TractorGuy]

Should I have to replace a cylinder, even in the future, where did you pick your cylinders up at?

I ordered mine from Magistar or something like that. They are made in Ukraine. Look at the USA made Prince brand cylinders and compare to your cylinders first. They sell them through Surplus Center and other dealers. Prices seem to fluctuate.

 

[rScotty]

I installed generic cross cylinders on my old 420 loader. You may have to compromise on the exact length or stroke a little but for the difference in price it was worth doing for me.

I remember that project you did. I did much the same thing on my old JD 46 QA loader. The 46 loader project was pre-internet, so I had the local hydraulic shop make the new cylinders from scratch. The charge for making cylinders was much the same as buying them at the Surplus Center today, but the dual spool valve I bought at the same time was kind of expensive. Surplus Center is good for comparing prices. I tend to go for brands I recognize - particularly for valves.

On your 420 project .... does it still leak down? Did you ever decide if the leak-down was in the cylinders or the valve?
rScotty

 

[wdchyd]

Reckon I can use a die over the threads or need to get someone professional to do it?

If the threads look good, go for it. If the threads are trashed you likely need to either build up thread area with weld, machine and rethread.....or have new hyd rods made

 

[4570Man]

Would there be any problem with putting the mostly stripped nuts on and welding them? Sure you can’t ever take it apart again but the rods are pretty much junk anyway if it doesn’t work.

 

[ovrszd]

Yep. I'd do that before buyin a new cylinder.