Did Ya Know? MF2360 snowblower has a "Fan Shear Plate"

[mgstevens]

In preparing for the season, I bought the new MF2360 and a set of shear bolts from the dealer. In the last 2 weeks we've gotten about 3 feet or more of snow to make up for a very slow, warm start to winter.

Earlier today, I lost the fan while finishing up clearing about 4" of light powder snow, but at some cold temps (for us..). I figured I'd snapped my first shear bolt and went to get the replacement, but I was wrong..

I'm not sure if the older 2360's have this, but my new unit has a thing called a "Fan Shear Plate" (pictured below..) and it has a shear bolt. The spec is 1/4-20 x 1-1/4" and the dealer tells me it just takes that size in a grade 5 bolt. I got a few in town for 60 cents.

What gets me is that there is no mention of this shear point in the user manual nor did the dealer bring it up when I ordered a "set of shear bolts.." so it may only be on the latest version.

Anyway, other than this blip, the unit is moving snow like a champ!

 

[irvingj]

Very interesting! Mine's a 2007 (on a 2310), and only has one snap-ring --for disassembly-- and the single shear bolt on the fan. Something new, I guess. What's the socket-head bolt there? (Are there two of those?)

 

[mgstevens]

What's the socket-head bolt there? (Are there two of those?)

If you are referring to the 5/16 lock nut forward of the "Fan Shear Plate" in the image, that is a bolt coupling the shaft to the tube that ties in the "fan shear plate." The OEM bolt in the "fan shear plate" is a hex-head, but the dealer replacement is a simple grade 5 bolt.

The dealer tells me the bolt is listed as 1-1/4" but that bolt from my local supplier has a non-threaded top end that would prevent it from shearing. Also, the OEM bolt is only 1" and is threaded through the whole shank. I'm pretty sure the manual does not cover this because it's new and the manual is not. However, the bolt spec from the dealer is not accurate either. The 1-1/4" sticks out at least an extra 1/4" at the back of the plate.

I will move to a 1" full-thread replacement to make sure if it needs to shear, it can. Also, why would this fan assembly need two shear points?

I think I'll call the snowblower manufacturer in Quebec and get the straight poop on this...

 

[mgstevens]

Yeah, I called RAD Tech in Quebec to find out the dealer sent me an old, outdated manual with the snowblower. Explains much of the confusion I have experienced since delivery of the unit.

The bolt through the shaft is meant for coupling only, and the only shear bolt on my unit is the 1/4-20 x 1-1/4" grade 5 bolt joining the two halves of the "fan shear plate."

The mfg is sending me both a PDF and print versions of the correct manual.

Sometimes you need to go direct to the source.

 

[Jaylegger]

This shear plate is listed in the Massey and Kubota manuals as an early model S/N blower. However my first (2009) 2360 blower had the through the shaft shear bolt. I purchased a new blower in 2016 (give or take a year) and this new blower has the shear plate. The plate seems to shear far less then the through the shaft method.

I switched to purchasing all shear bolts from my much closer Kubota dealer for the BX2750 blower as it's identical to the MF2360. Hears a link to the plate shear bolt in question. Both Massey and Kubota list the same grade 5 bolt with a .35" collar prior to tapering down to the threads.

Massey part# 4263511M91

Kubota part# 70060-01075

Massey Ferguson 4263511M91 SHEAR BOLT 1/4 2� X - Jacks Small Engines

Kubota: BOLT,SHEAR FAN, Part # 7��6�-�1�75

 

[mgstevens]

I got some slightly confusing info from the tech support person at the manufacturer RADtech.

The OEM shear bolt is threaded all the way up the shank while the replacement has a solid collar, which seems to go against the standard for shear bolts which are typically either threaded at the shear points or notched. She seemed sure the bolt needed a threaded shank all the way to the bolt head.

She then checked with their engineering people and was told that they use a full-shank threaded bolt at the factory for ease of assembly, but the replacement is indeed a collared bolt.

Guess that is why everybody (dealer, Jack's, etc..) is using them.. They just need to be a grade 5. Perhaps the OEM lighter threaded shank sheared on me with no apparent blockage (light powder snow)because it is a little lightweight for the job..

My local supplier seems to have what everybody else is using.

 

[MF RED in MT]

I got some slightly confusing info from the tech support person at the manufacturer RADtech.

The OEM shear bolt is threaded all the way up the shank while the replacement has a solid collar, which seems to go against the standard for shear bolts which are typically either threaded at the shear points or notched. She seemed sure the bolt needed a threaded shank all the way to the bolt head.

She then checked with their engineering people and was told that they use a full-shank threaded bolt at the factory for ease of assembly, but the replacement is indeed a collared bolt.

Guess that is why everybody (dealer, Jack's, etc..) is using them.. They just need to be a grade 5. Perhaps the OEM lighter threaded shank sheared on me with no apparent blockage (light powder snow)because it is a little lightweight for the job..

My local supplier seems to have what everybody else is using.

View attachment 637035

1/4" diameter "machine screw" are threaded all the way and come in varied style head types.

Is this what you are looking for:

KC

Socket Head Cap Screw, 1/4-2 x 1", Alloy Steel, Black Oxide, Hex Socket Coarse Thread, 1/4 inch Hexagonal Allen Bolt, Length: 1 inch, Full Thread (Quantity: 2): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[mgstevens]

That certainly looks like what they used at the factory, but everybody in the field is using a 1-1/4" grade 5 bolt that has a 3/8" long solid collar above the thread, as shown in the pic from my last post.

That is what I found at my local supplier, so for now that is what I'll go with. Perhaps the fully threaded shank is weaker/too weak..

 

[MF RED in MT]

That certainly looks like what they used at the factory, but everybody in the field is using a 1-1/4" grade 5 bolt that has a 3/8" long solid collar above the thread, as shown in the pic from my last post.

That is what I found at my local supplier, so for now that is what I'll go with. Perhaps the fully threaded shank is weaker/too weak..

You might have to look for "machine screw" because they are threaded all the way to the head, typical use is in a tapped hole.

KC

 

[lpakiz]

When you replace the shear bolt, try to work some grease into the tiny space between the spinning shaft and the now-stationary hub, or drill and tap a grease fitting into the hub.
My auger shear system is the older, hub/shaft shear style and my hub has a grease fitting on it, to prevent the grinding and galling that will occur when the shaft is still turning and the (dry) hub is stationary.
As long as the bolt is driving the two pieces at the same RPM, no grinding occurs. As soon as you shear, that changes.
That snap ring may be to keep the shaft and hub engaged and in position if the shear bolt is no longer doing that.

 

[Jaylegger]

When you replace the shear bolt, try to work some grease into the tiny space between the spinning shaft and the now-stationary hub, or drill and tap a grease fitting into the hub.
My auger shear system is the older, hub/shaft shear style and my hub has a grease fitting on it, to prevent the grinding and galling that will occur when the shaft is still turning and the (dry) hub is stationary.
As long as the bolt is driving the two pieces at the same RPM, no grinding occurs. As soon as you shear, that changes.
That snap ring may be to keep the shaft and hub engaged and in position if the shear bolt is no longer doing that.

After looking at parts diagrams I don't think greasing the fan shaft is necessary. Each end of the fan is outfitted with an Olight bushing which appears to be a sintered oil impregnated bushing. The shaft would spin on these bushings if the case of shearing the pin.

 

[ruffdog]

A socket head cap screw sure ain't no grade 5 strength! In fact....slightly more than a grade 8 or 50% stronger than a grade 5.

Socket Head FastenersTechnical Information | MSC Industrial Supply Co.

 

[irvingj]

Thanks, mgstevens; I see now: the bolt with the nylock nut just attaches the plate to the shaft and the socket-head bolt is the shearipin.... Looks like there's just one off-center shearpin mounted to an "egg-shaped" plate -- is that right?

PS-- I'm in the same boat: the M-F dealer is over an hour away, but a Kubota dealer is only about a half hour away, so guess where I get my 2360's shear bolts (and other blower parts) --

Thanks for the research at RAD Technologies!

 

[mgstevens]

Looks like there's just one off-center shearpin mounted to an "egg-shaped" plate -- is that right?
Thanks for the research at RAD Technologies!

My 2360 was manufactured in 2018 and changes the fan-shear-point from a "through-the-shaft" 5/16" shear bolt, which is a Grade 8, notched bolt, according to the older user manual I got with my 2360, to a "fan shear plate" which is the egg-shaped 2-part plate with the shear bolt through the eccentric point.

The bolt used in the fan shear plate is both smaller (1/4" vs 5/16") and a Grade 5 vs Grade 8 used in the earlier method. When the picture and description for the shear bolt in my manual (which was from 2012..) did not at all line up with what I was seeing, and the dealer showed a standard Grade 5 shear bolt in their stock for that fan shear plate, while the OEM bolt was more like what KC (Red In MT) referred to as a machine screw, I decided to call the manufacturer in the hopes I could find clarity.

Before 'clarity,' there was greater confusion when the tech support insisted the fully-threaded shank of the OEM bolt was needed to give the shear point relief, which did not line up with the bolt offered by the MF dealer, and someone else's Kubota dealer, and Jack's online stock. So, I had the mfg person check with their engineering people and was told that the standard Grade 5 bolt replacement available in the field was correct, even though the shear point of the replacement bolt was a full, non-threaded shank, which seems to go against every other shear bolt I've seen. This must be a combination of the smaller diameter and the lesser grade of the fan shear plate bolt over the thru-the-driveshaft bolt from earlier versions of the 2360.

Thankfully, the mfg has emailed me the up-to-date PDF manual and is mailing me the print version of both user manual and parts manual.

Let it snow.

 

[irvingj]

I guess I can see that from an engineering standpoint -- the set-up you have has a single stress/breaking point, where the old system has two: in order for my shearpin to break, BOTH ends must shear off; with yours, there's only one shearing point. I suspect that having it parallel to the fan shaft and offset a bit also changes the force required to shear it. Makes it less, my guess, hence a smaller bolt with no notches necessary. Interesting alternative.

 

[mgstevens]

Agreed. I read somewhere here that the shear plate goes through less shear bolts. Hope that is true. In any event, being able to grab a standard Grade 5 locally when needed is another comfort.

As much as anything, this process got me straightened away with the proper user manual, so I feel better equipped for the future.

 

[Shepstone]

Just broke another one today on the “shear plate” I don’t know how many I’ve gone through now but it eats regular 1/4 bolts & this was the last one that my dealer gave to me after I complained about them breaking all the time. They break too easily just putting the blower in gear will break them, I’ve learned to reduce the engine speed to idle before engaging the blower, today it was just about 1/4 throttle and I thought I’d be ok but nope, bang it went again, no snow or load, the blower was raised up not even on the ground, empty of snow... this sucks, I’m thinking I might have to shut down the tractor, engage the lever then start it up, is anyone else having this problem with the 2360 blower?? I’m concerned about getting grade 5 bolts in case it damages the gear box.

 

[mgstevens]

...I'm thinking I might have to shut down the tractor, engage the lever then start it up, is anyone else having this problem with the 2360 blower?? I'm concerned about getting grade 5 bolts in case it damages the gear box.

Two things: First, the clutch-cutoff switch will prevent the machine from starting if the PTO is engaged. However, the manufacturer spec is for a grade 5 bolt. Anything less will not be enough. The shaft bolt from the older models is supposed to be a grade 8, so the specification is important.

Put a grade 5 bolt in and you'll be in better shape, I suspect.

 

[Jaylegger]

Just broke another one today on the 都hear plate I don稚 know how many I致e gone through now but it eats regular 1/4 bolts & this was the last one that my dealer gave to me after I complained about them breaking all the time. They break too easily just putting the blower in gear will break them, I致e learned to reduce the engine speed to idle before engaging the blower, today it was just about 1/4 throttle and I thought I壇 be ok but nope, bang it went again, no snow or load, the blower was raised up not even on the ground, empty of snow... this sucks, I知 thinking I might have to shut down the tractor, engage the lever then start it up, is anyone else having this problem with the 2360 blower?? I知 concerned about getting grade 5 bolts in case it damages the gear box.

Get the proper bolt spec'd for this blower. The bolt should not be shearing from engaging the pto at any speed unless your fan or augers are iced up.