Chainsaw and chain holder

[Smokeydog]

Gleaned lots of good ideas from this site. Building what hopefully works for me given skills and materials around most farm shops. Going to document as it evolves. Comments welcome.

Plan is to attach a steel tube to the loader upright. 6x6x26.5” drop from scrapyard. Chain hook and drain holes cut.

0.5” plate cut and notched for bottom.
3/8” plates cut to sandwich around the loader upright. The inner plate cut long and going to bend to make a bash/skid plate for some lower hydraulic lines.


Progress so far. Will update as it goes.

 

[Gordon Gould]

A good project for sure. It will be interesting to see how you make it all work for you.

gg

 

[Smokeydog]

Time spent fitting the lower mounting parts. Usually I would weld instead of using bolts. With all the hydraulic lines and maybe needing access later making the attachment bolt on and removable. 3/4” bolts, notching and heavy plates for when trees or stumps might challenge the attachment.

Bottom plate. Notched to loader upright.


The back plate took some cutting and notching to clear a hydraulic mounting valve block on the back side of the loader upright. Then I was getting fancy and welded the nuts to the plate because of limited space for wrench. Senior moment...welded the nuts on the wrong side! Two steps forward, one step back.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Aah - now I see what you mean by bash plate to protect hydraulic lines. Good idea. If that is the drain hole and it were mine I would need it bigger. There is no end to the debris that ends up in the bottom of a vertical tube exposed to the elements. You might need to get a screw driver or pick to get up in there to loosen it and you want the stuff to come out the bottom hole maybe. We also have ice. Just something to think about.

gg

 

[Smokeydog]

GG you are exactly right. An open container is a magnet for debris in the woods or bush hogging.

The 6” tube has three 1” half circle drain holes where it will be welded to the base plate. The pneumatic radiator cleaning wand hopefully can blow out stuff that collects inside.

Making another back plate. Hope the nuts get welded on the right side this time. Made the bash plate 4” longer.


Several of the tools used.
Tapered bolt to clamp and center nut on hole for welding. Modified speed square for plasma drag cutter. 911 MotorSports hole template for plasma cutting holes. The 3/4” bolt holes are plasma cut.

They make this wash tub plasma cutting topper too. Makes cutting and shop cleaner.

Welcome to 911 Motorsports -

 

[Smokeydog]

Had a little time to test fit and adjusting parts for best fit and function. Taking time to think before final welding. The bash plate to help protect the front hydraulic lines worked out. Might weld a plate, fin, to the bottom plate to better protect lower sheet metal guard? It’s about a 6.5” drop.


Going to use two existing 10Mx1.25 threaded holes for the top mount. Not sure their intended purpose.


Lower mounts and chainsaw bar scabbard pieces.

 

[Smokeydog]

Another weekend to work on this project. Some job scope creep is adding some features. Ground defense guards, fuel/oil container mount, bucket hook, etc.
Checked the bolt up one last time before welding tube to base.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Nice work... build quality is far beyond the average 'cobbled together' stuff like I build most of the time.

Coming together nicely.

I'm sure you have your reasons, but personally, I would not like the 'have to remove saw to access chains' aspect. But, I keep chains and saw on the tractor at all times, using either one or both at any time.

 

[Carl_NH]

Diesel Crawler - You mean like this cobbled together setup on my B21 - it works though!

 

[Smokeydog]

Dieselcrawler makes a good point on chain access. While checking bolt up yesterday tried the saw 180* around. This would have the tube open. Had some tight interference with the ROPS. This could be improved by cutting the bottom of the tube at angle and cant the tube back for the needed clearance. Downside is that it is raining all day and the tractor can’t fit in the shop. Would like to reassemble the pieces before welding to check. Have several other clearances to check.

 

[Gordon Gould]

You could compromise maybe?? If you want a chain slide the saw up 6" and tighten your clamp to hold it there while you get the chain you want. Then let the saw down. Might seem better than a rework. Your the only one who has to like it. By the way - very nice work.

gg

 

[CADplans]

I wanted a chainsaw holder for a "new-to-me" trailer I bought last year,,

I decided rubber would work better than other materials,, the best part, it was done in 30 minutes,,,

The holder fits any of my saws, even the Stihl 660,,,

 

[Farman123]

Cobbled together rubber version.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Diesel Crawler - You mean like this cobbled together setup on my B21 - it works though!

Yours is high class...you even painted the plywood! Mine, made out of plywood, and exposed to weather because the tractor hasn't been parked inside the barn in 2 1/2 years due to a truck project taking up inside space, is looking quite sad.

 

[Smokeydog]

With our farm the use of tractor, chainsaw and chain together very often thus the need to safely carry.


First gen saw/chain holder with Kubota B26. 5x5” steel tube, 1/2” bottom welded to loader upright. Note alignment of tube to loader frame for clearance issues. Can clamp saw up to access chains. Has worked very well for a small tractor. Took less time to fabricate, but each tractor is different.

 

[ovrszd]

Nice work Smokey!!! And if you ever find yourself in a situation where you need to pick the M59 up with a crane this attachment would certainly be considered strong enough!!!!

I really like the half moon drains in the tube sides. That's much better than holes in the bottom. As you said, these are easy to clean out and debris won't lodge itself in them.

P.S. You only made one mistake so far, nuts on the wrong side??? That's very good!!!!

 

[arrow]

Great work Sd. Lots of craftsmanship there. I am puzzled however by you guys who carry your chainsaws on your front loader posts. I might be able to see a mount behind it or between the loader arm. If I showed you what my posts look like after years of logging and going through dense woods, one would understand that I would have destroyed a chainsaw if I put one there.
Must be something different with technique or lay of the land. Perhaps I'm too reckless an operator.

 

[ovrszd]

Great work Sd. Lots of craftsmanship there. I am puzzled however by you guys who carry your chainsaws on your front loader posts. I might be able to see a mount behind it or between the loader arm. If I showed you what my posts look like after years of logging and going through dense woods, one would understand that I would have destroyed a chainsaw if I put one there.
Must be something different with technique or lay of the land. Perhaps I'm too reckless an operator.

I agree. I have a chain box fastened to the upright on left side. But I wouldn't consider hauling my saw there. I must be careless right there with you....

Here's the carrier on my old L4400. Same type on my M9540.

Edit: To defend the OP, he's got an M59. His hoe would be in the way for any carrier located where mine is.

 

[arrow]

I agree. I have a chain box fastened to the upright on left side. But I wouldn't consider hauling my saw there. I must be careless right there with you....

Here's the carrier on my old L4400. Same type on my M9540.

Edit: To defend the OP, he's got an M59. His hoe would be in the way for any carrier located where mine is.



View attachment 637746

View attachment 637747

That would be a safer set up Richard for me as well. I have mine mounted behind my seat. I like yours better.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Great work Sd. Lots of craftsmanship there. I am puzzled however by you guys who carry your chainsaws on your front loader posts. I might be able to see a mount behind it or between the loader arm. If I showed you what my posts look like after years of logging and going through dense woods, one would understand that I would have destroyed a chainsaw if I put one there.
Must be something different with technique or lay of the land. Perhaps I'm too reckless an operator.

I would say it is most likely technique coupled with the fact you don't use a winch. Speaking for myself only here. I have a saw mounted behind the post and the saw is inside the outline of the tractor but I still don't have slash and branches rubbing down the sides of the tractor. I keep the tractor trails clear. It is more work but I respect the fact that it is a tractor not a skidder and I don't want it stove in for no reason. The fact that I have normal tractor tires not forestry tires is the biggest reason I don't drive in the slash. Minimal under armor is next. If you price forestry tires you can justify a winch pretty quick. You can criticize me for wasting time and energy making tractor trails, keeping them clear, and keeping the tractor on them. Or call me a wimp and say I baby my tractor. That's fine with me. But don't criticize me for setting up my tractor in a manner that is a good match for the way it is used. Thank you.



gg