Bucket rolled backwards

Kfbeal · Jan 17, 2020

countrybumpkin said:
Use a slide hammer with a internal puller.

That's exactly what I had to do. I went to AutoZone & did their loaner program & got the pulley puller set with 5 pound slide hammer. I used the 2-sided puller and had to put one in at a time & bolt up because of the 3/4" hole. It took quite a bit of coercing at first, but after about 10 good hits it started moving. I got it out over lunch today and hopefully get to use it this weekend. I still have to figure out if I'm going to use a double-nut.

I appreciate all of the replies..

4570Man · Jan 17, 2020

The seal shouldn’t be very tight. If you could grip it like with the rod still attached it should be easily done by hand. Does it have other issues?

davedj1 · Jan 18, 2020

I'm not really advising this but they do make a Green Loctite product but be warned, you will never get it apart again if you use it.
I had to cut a welded JD steering cylinder apart because the bolt fell off the shaft, I cleaned it up and impacted the bolt in with the green loctite then welded the cylinder back together. That was a year ago and that tractor gets used a lot as it also has a backhoe on it. I figured we had nothing to lose except buying a new cylinder

Keeping my fingers crossed !

Sawyer Rob · Jan 19, 2020

You can get something apart when using green Loctite, you just have to heat it.

Red Loctite is even stronger.

SR

4570Man · Jan 19, 2020

davedj1 said:
I'm not really advising this but they do make a Green Loctite product but be warned, you will never get it apart again if you use it.
I had to cut a welded JD steering cylinder apart because the bolt fell off the shaft, I cleaned it up and impacted the bolt in with the green loctite then welded the cylinder back together. That was a year ago and that tractor gets used a lot as it also has a backhoe on it. I figured we had nothing to lose except buying a new cylinder Keeping my fingers crossed !

The threads are pretty badly damaged. It’s not a matter of loosening up, but pulling off.

SPYDERLK · Jan 19, 2020

Sawyer Rob said:
You can get something apart when using green Loctite, you just have to heat it.

Red Loctite is even stronger.

SR

Yes, the reds are strong. The top performance greens are stronger tho. Loctite 270 Studlocker green is 40% stronger than the strongest red. --Typically the Greens are rated as retaining compounds and there is a good selection to choose from. Shopping the specs can sometimes find some real compatible characteristics for your need.

For instance, MAXIMUM strength is offered by Loctite 620, 635, and 638. All weaken as temperature rises, but not at the same rate:

# 620 [4000psi] retains very near its full nominal strength up to 450F - You dont want to use this if you ever want to remove a part near a seal.

# 635 [4500] is the strongest by ~10% but loses ~25% strength at 212F

# 638 [4000] is a marginally weaker but, from there, also loses more strength, ~30% at 212F. This is the one I use near a seal.

MarshSt · Jan 19, 2020

This may have been mentioned already but, if you add any jamb nuts or make any other changes you run the risk of changing the extended or retracted stroke length of the cylinder. Both cylinders need to match at both ends of travel to keep from twisting the bucket/loader arms.

Steve

4570Man · Jan 19, 2020

MarshSt said:
This may have been mentioned already but, if you add any jamb nuts or make any other changes you run the risk of changing the extended or retracted stroke length of the cylinder. Both cylinders need to match at both ends of travel to keep from twisting the bucket/loader arms.

Steve

If the nut doesn’t extend past the end of the stud it shouldn’t affect anything.