Comparison Kioti CK2610HST vs Kubota L2501HST : what am I missing?

   / Kioti CK2610HST vs Kubota L2501HST : what am I missing? #51  
There are multiple new productions from different manufacturers that will be out in the market soon.
This includes the New LS MT225S and the new Kioti CK2610SE.
There are others as well.
This might allow the OP to get a newer/better model at the current price or an older model with a decent discount.
 
   / Kioti CK2610HST vs Kubota L2501HST : what am I missing? #52  
I can help you with a couple of details.

The 2501 ROPS height is 91.7 while the 2610 is 99.2. You will not get the Kioti through an 8' garage door with the ROPS up (my DK5010 is shorter and gives me 1 inch to spare).

I assume you are looking at an HST. 2501 rocker pedal; 2610 two pedals. Personal preference. FYI: I am quite certain that the Kioti manual transmission is not synchronized to shift up through gears, but I recall F2/R2 are synchronized.

Copy and paste above is correct except the ROPS on my 2016 CK2610 is 92 inches high and does fit under an 8 foot door.

True for reverse and 2nd the only gears synchronized, really a non issue since you want an HST.

Front wheel drive shaft IS shielded all of the way on my 2016 model.

I have the small loader KL2610, it works very well and Not sure how much it lifts as I have a larger tractor for the larger loads.

The best thing with the 2610 is the engine size being 1.6 liter and it was handed down from another larger series tractor. One adjustment makes the engine 35 horsepower.

Mine ran an 8 inch chipper very well BEFORE I turned the fuel up. Mine handles a 75 inch snowblower better than my other tractor (Kubota L3940 HST). The 2610 gear does almost everything better than the larger L3940.

It's been great but only has 300 hours on it. Had an front knuckle oring leak that was an easy fix. I fixed myself even though the dealer is 3 miles from my house.

Buy the rubber mat it will save the floor and is comfy on your feet.

The engine, being an older model and NON common rail computerized tends to be rough and tumble compared to say the CH3510 and up, I've tried them all and my neighbor has a 3510 which is very smooth compared to mine and stinks less.

Operator platform is big and easily accessible from both sides comfortably.

I run a 6 foot tiller on mine even with stock power it is no problem, nor is the 6 foot finish mower, 8 inch wood chipper and 75 inch snowblower.

I can't say enough good about the thing. I bought a Kioti block heater for it and never installed it. One day last year it was -5 f outside and it started right up with 1 run of the glowplugs.

Might be wise to slow up on the internet comparison thing, I think better to try and run each model you are looking at before you buy.

What the dealer tells me is Kubota might have a better resale value but costs more to buy new. People try to trade Kubotas in for Kiotis and realize you can buy a 2 year old Kubota or a new Kioti for the same price.

The other thing I see is that Kioti does seem to have some setup issues on their machines, the dealer is constantly having to redo a factory setting for an HST peddle or some other stupid adjustment that the factory simply got wrong.

I go to the dealer and this one won't move or this one has no power or some un-needed crap like that. Not sure about Kubota as I hate the place and don't like going there,

Good luck whatever you choose.
 
   / Kioti CK2610HST vs Kubota L2501HST : what am I missing?
  • Thread Starter
#53  
Thanks for the detailed post Fred, really answered a lot of questions. Will have to measure my door and the rops on the lot.

Seat time might be a bit harder, my local Kubota dealer has no L2501, they say they sell very few?. He does have plenty of L3901s, but that sounds like overkill.

Now, the quote for the L3901 is ONLY 3600 CAD more than the L2501 with remotes :). Unfortunately that's 6400 CAD higher than the Kioti CK2610.

Really leaning towards the CK2610 anyway now. If the demo goes well, that might be it. Will leave some room for implements.
 
   / Kioti CK2610HST vs Kubota L2501HST : what am I missing? #54  
Thanks for the detailed post Fred, really answered a lot of questions. Will have to measure my door and the rops on the lot.
If it is close check the tire pressure in case they have the rears highly/over inflated. My counterweight drops my ROPS an inch or 1.5", and my snowblower will drop it a bit as well. Every inch counts.
I assume you have checked the price of the CK3510 to compare. If you plan to keep the tractor for many years the difference may be manageable when divided by 120 or 240 months! Too little tractor and some jobs have to be hired out. A little too much tractor allows you to get all the work done.
Have fun.
 
   / Kioti CK2610HST vs Kubota L2501HST : what am I missing? #55  
[snip]Will have to measure my door and the rops on the lot.
[snip]

When you measure, keep in mind also that the type of tires you choose will affect the height overall at the ROPs. The manufacturers' published specs for height and width typically are given with Ag tires (R1s). With Industrial tires (R4s), the height can be 1-1/2" to 2" less (one-half the difference in rear tire diameter). With Turf tires (R3s) it can even be as much as 4 inches on some models, such as the DK and NX series!
 
   / Kioti CK2610HST vs Kubota L2501HST : what am I missing?
  • Thread Starter
#56  
One more thing :)

There seems to be options for spring and/or detent valves for the rear remotes on the CK2610. Can anyone explain the difference? Looking at adding 2 remotes in the back, maybe a third function depending on cost and how it is integrated.
 
   / Kioti CK2610HST vs Kubota L2501HST : what am I missing? #57  
Spring means it will return to neutral position when you let go of the lever.
Detent means it stays in the position you put it in.

Your needs depend on the intended use. Detent for something that requires constant flow and spring for things that don稚, like a hyd rear blade.

If your unsure of future use, get one spring and one detent and demand all the hardware for the valve be delivered with the tractor for in case you ever decide to change them. The kit actually comes with everything needed to set it one way or the other so doing so later is easy providing you have everything from the kit, instructions are also in the box and make sure you get them also.
 
   / Kioti CK2610HST vs Kubota L2501HST : what am I missing?
  • Thread Starter
#58  
Thanks Paul, looking at a hydraulic top link for sure, and maybe running a line for a grapple if the 3rd function is not viable.
 
   / Kioti CK2610HST vs Kubota L2501HST : what am I missing? #59  
Kioti, for some strange reason, quotes the total hyd pump flow in their brochures, which is about 11.7GPM. That includes the flow for the Power Steering and HST Charge Pump, which can not be used to supplement the Implement Pump flow. The Implement Pumps for this size Kioti is usually about 8.3GPM max, a spec you can find in the Repair Manual. Same #s as my CK30.

8.3GPM is about what you get for the implement pumps on Grand L Kubotas, too. Standard Ls, like the L2501 are substantially less, as you say.

They know exactly what they are doing quoting that 11.7 gpm number as shown by posts claiming how much more hydraulic flow than competitors. Mahindra misleads concerning their "no dpf" claim.
 
   / Kioti CK2610HST vs Kubota L2501HST : what am I missing? #60  
Thanks Paul, looking at a hydraulic top link for sure, and maybe running a line for a grapple if the 3rd function is not viable.

You can put a third function on just about anything with hydraulics, the question becomes who installs it and at what cost?

If your cost for the 3rd function out front is too much to swing at purchase, you can use lines run from the rear spring valve to operate it till your ready to upgrade the system later, cost of the lines and fittings and some time figuring a way to route them. I actually know some folks who started out that way and never bothered to actually get the true third function because it suited thier needs.
If your going to have a regular need for the grapple or anything out front it’s worth doing it right but if the grapple is only seldom used running lines from rear out front is a quick lower cost solution.
 

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