Car lift problem

[leveled]

I have a issue with my car lift. It will not raise or start up, with a load on the it. I have checked voltage 220 plus... and the capacitors on the electric motor . I had no power at the start capacitor on start up, so I assumed the contacts going to the start switch or the centrifugal switch were bad. I took the motor in for service and they told me the internal switch was bad. I had them repair it for about 115 bucks.

I have now reinstalled the motor on the pump and still have the same problem, I check voltage again and it seems to be correct, I even bypassed the electromagnetic switch by using the breaker as a temporary switch. The lift will operate if is lowered completely to the ground or if i use the lowering handle as a temporary pressure buffer.

I am at a stand still waiting on a service tech for the manufacture of the 4 post lift, I feel it may be a restriction in the pump of some sort. I have already followed up with the electric motor shop and they have said it must be on my end.

Anyone have a idea what it could be?

Thank you

 

[aczlan]

My first guess would be that there is a check valve on the high pressure output of the hydraulic pump which has failed and is causing there to be back pressure on the hydraulic pump when it goes to startup.
Can you post a picture of the hydraulic pump and the lines going from it to the valve then back to the tank?

Aaron Z

 

[RNeumann]

My first guess would be that there is a check valve on the high pressure output of the hydraulic pump which has failed and is causing there to be back pressure on the hydraulic pump when it goes to startup.
Can you post a picture of the hydraulic pump and the lines going from it to the valve then back to the tank?

Aaron Z

Ditto- sounds like the motor won’t go with full pressure against it. But as soon as you bleed pressure it works. I assume their is some sort of relief to allow the motor to start before it gets hit with full pressure. Air compressors, refrigerators,AC pump etc all relieve pressure to allow the electric motor to start.

 

[cdaigle430]

I have a issue with my car lift. It will not raise or start up, with a load on the it. I have checked voltage 220 plus... and the capacitors on the electric motor . I had no power at the start capacitor on start up, so I assumed the contacts going to the start switch or the centrifugal switch were bad. I took the motor in for service and they told me the internal switch was bad. I had them repair it for about 115 bucks.

I have now reinstalled the motor on the pump and still have the same problem, I check voltage again and it seems to be correct, I even bypassed the electromagnetic switch by using the breaker as a temporary switch. The lift will operate if is lowered completely to the ground or if i use the lowering handle as a temporary pressure buffer.

I am at a stand still waiting on a service tech for the manufacture of the 4 post lift, I feel it may be a restriction in the pump of some sort. I have already followed up with the electric motor shop and they have said it must be on my end.

Anyone have a idea what it could be?

Thank you

If I remember correctly my dads did the same thing and it turned out to be a safety switch was bad-his had a safety switch that kept you from going to high. Im assuming you had the same type of car lift but we dont know.

 

[leveled]

Thanks for the reply's the lift is a Bendpak 4 post lift.

 

[leveled]

If I remember correctly my dads did the same thing and it turned out to be a safety switch was bad-his had a safety switch that kept you from going to high. Im assuming you had the same type of car lift but we dont know.

No safety switch because it is a 4 post lift. In the magnet switch it is bypassed. The cables just max out.

 

[mike48130]

Some of these motor/pumps were know to have the pump coupler go bad. You could have inspected it when you pulled the motor off the pump. There should have been a splined coupler in there.

Not really sure what your issue is. It sounds like the motor is running but not building pressure. There is a relief valve on the side of the AL block but could also be a bad pump.

 

[leveled]

Some of these motor/pumps were know to have the pump coupler go bad. You could have inspected it when you pulled the motor off the pump. There should have been a splined coupler in there.

Not really sure what your issue is. It sounds like the motor is running but not building pressure. There is a relief valve on the side of the AL block but could also be a bad pump.

The shaft was fine, and the motor is not running, it wont start with the lift loaded. It will run when it is in the lower position or when I use the handle to release pressure.

 

[mike48130]

The shaft was fine, and the motor is not running, it wont start with the lift loaded. It will run when it is in the lower position or when I use the handle to release pressure.

Did they replace the capacitor when they replaced the switch?

 

[leveled]

Did they replace the capacitor when they replaced the switch?

No they tested it, and said it is fine. I was thinking of retesting it.