I think if it had a mechanical issue the pump would run against the pressure relief. That is assuming the pressure relief works and set to the correct pressure. But you never know.
I think a pressure gauge would be a good investment rather than throwing parts at it. Surplus center has them cheap.
So the next time you go out there, create the stall situation again, then pull the lower lever right after to see if it will start. This would releive the pressure as it is trying to start.
Can you explain how you tested the capacitor?
So tonight, I went to my dad's to plow the snow. I get there, and the house is cold. Furnace not running, the fan motor blew the breaker and would not start and kept tripping the breaker. He has an old big house with a 7,000 CFM blower and a 220V 3HP motor. I replaced it last year since it was acting up and blowing the breaker even with a new capacitor. So today, the capacitor was dead, and I did have a spare, so swapped it out and started right up. I have a digital capacitor tester, and it shows it is dead.
But, it sounds just like your issue. I think you have a motor issue or the pump is jamming somehow. If you had a bad hose or cylinder, you would still get some movement but slow especially since you can raise and lower it without a load. For it not to start at all I think it points to the pump or motor.
I agree, it sounds like a bad capacitor, but the OP has tried a new capacitor and had the motor tested. I assume the motor has one start/run capacitor and no internal switch.The motor is drawing 11 amps @ 230 volt, so it takes in 2500 Watt. This energy is delivered to the shaft at about 3 HP. If it is not delivered at the shaft it is converted to heat and the motor would get very hot very fast. The pump is running with no or low load. Could a load get it jammed? I think a hydraulic restriction or a mechanical problem.
I took the motor in to a shop they replaced the start switch to the capacitor, i have tested the capacitor multiple times, even had it professionally tested. if its the motor its going through their front window.:shocked:
If the motor has an internal switch, it should have more than one capacitor or not? My understanding is that the start capacitor is switched off when the motor is up speed, but the run capacitor is on all the time. Do you hear a click when the RPM's drop when the motor stops?
I am very familiar with European electrical motors, but I have limited experience with switched capacitors like in North American motors, although the basics are the same.
I originally tested the start capacitor switch contacts by spark testing the capacitor on start up. which was determined to be bad. i had it replaced. hopefully i do not have to throw it through the front window. lol
I think if it had a mechanical issue the pump would run against the pressure relief. That is assuming the pressure relief works and set to the correct pressure. But you never know.
I think a pressure gauge would be a good investment rather than throwing parts at it. Surplus center has them cheap.
I took the motor in to a shop they replaced the start switch to the capacitor, i have tested the capacitor multiple times, even had it professionally tested. if its the motor its going through their front window.:shocked: