Car lift problem
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OP
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I will check the flow, although I feel like back pressure is stopping the motor for moving. Bendpak has been really bad with communications. I do not have a full parts diagram of the pump. This is what I would like, before I proceed. Thank you for all the help
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BertZegers
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If you check flow, check motor current and write down.
Frank Surber
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Replace the capacitor or have the motor shop do a loaded start up test on the motor the start winding could be bad
ovrszd
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And I hope you understand, none of us are questioning anything you are doing. :drink:
For Bert and I it's become an addictive puzzle. Very curious to see the end result.
With all that said. I still think it's an electrical issue. My basis for that conclusion is that the pump, cylinder, valve assembly all work properly once the system starts. The motor just can't start a load.
I've played with my lift over the past few days trying to recreate the scenario where yours fails. Mine doesn't even hesitate. Even with a 4K lb Jeep sitting on it.
Very curious indeed.
For Bert and I it's become an addictive puzzle. Very curious to see the end result.
With all that said. I still think it's an electrical issue. My basis for that conclusion is that the pump, cylinder, valve assembly all work properly once the system starts. The motor just can't start a load.
I've played with my lift over the past few days trying to recreate the scenario where yours fails. Mine doesn't even hesitate. Even with a 4K lb Jeep sitting on it.
Very curious indeed.
BertZegers
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With the lift model# it should be possible to find what HP motor is. Knowing the FLA is very important for trouble shooting.
We know: The motor is tested 2 times and is OK.
The motor stall exists when lifting. The hydraulic flow for lifting is; tank - filter- pump - check valve- hose cylinder.
A cylinder problem is unlikely, if the rod is straight and no leak, it should be ok .
Try to find the problem, by measuring motor Amps.
1. Put an amp meter and volt meter on the motor leads.
2. Start the motor while holding the lowering lever in lowering position, read and note the measurements. In this test the oil is pumped from tank to tank and the load on the motor and so the motor amps should be minimal. Very easy to do and shows motor amps with minimum load.
3. Start the motor with the cylinder hose disconnected and in a container to see flow, read and note measurements. In this test the oil is pumped from the tank into the container and the load on the motor and so the motor amps should be minimal.
4. Start the motor raising the platform from the floor till the relief valve opens. Read and note the measurements. Note if there is a difference when the relief opens. In this test the motor is loaded and when the relief valve is pushed open, the amps go up somewhat higher.
The FLA (which we do not know, but would be 12 amps for a 2.5 HP motor) should only be reached with full load, which is maximum allowed weight on the platform.
The motor current in test 2 without load should only be a few amps.
The motor current in test 3 should only be a few amps.
The motor current in test 4 should be a few amps higher than in test 2 and 3.
If you have high amps in test 3 than take the check valve out, put the cap back and test again to rule out a faulty check valve.
If one of the test measures motor current at 11 or 12 amps, than there is something wrong, (and we know it is but we want to know where).
If you cannot turn the fan on the motor by hand, than the motor can not start.
The volt meter is just for confirmation that the voltage stays at 220-240
We know: The motor is tested 2 times and is OK.
The motor stall exists when lifting. The hydraulic flow for lifting is; tank - filter- pump - check valve- hose cylinder.
A cylinder problem is unlikely, if the rod is straight and no leak, it should be ok .
Try to find the problem, by measuring motor Amps.
1. Put an amp meter and volt meter on the motor leads.
2. Start the motor while holding the lowering lever in lowering position, read and note the measurements. In this test the oil is pumped from tank to tank and the load on the motor and so the motor amps should be minimal. Very easy to do and shows motor amps with minimum load.
3. Start the motor with the cylinder hose disconnected and in a container to see flow, read and note measurements. In this test the oil is pumped from the tank into the container and the load on the motor and so the motor amps should be minimal.
4. Start the motor raising the platform from the floor till the relief valve opens. Read and note the measurements. Note if there is a difference when the relief opens. In this test the motor is loaded and when the relief valve is pushed open, the amps go up somewhat higher.
The FLA (which we do not know, but would be 12 amps for a 2.5 HP motor) should only be reached with full load, which is maximum allowed weight on the platform.
The motor current in test 2 without load should only be a few amps.
The motor current in test 3 should only be a few amps.
The motor current in test 4 should be a few amps higher than in test 2 and 3.
If you have high amps in test 3 than take the check valve out, put the cap back and test again to rule out a faulty check valve.
If one of the test measures motor current at 11 or 12 amps, than there is something wrong, (and we know it is but we want to know where).
If you cannot turn the fan on the motor by hand, than the motor can not start.
The volt meter is just for confirmation that the voltage stays at 220-240
OP
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I will do these test, but I will have to find a cap for the check valve since it is one complete unit.. Also the fan test I can not do since the motor is enclosed. I did check line voltage and it was 12 amps running and pumping and the 60 amps when stuck. The motor is 3 HP I remember that. You guys are persistent, and I feel like i am letting you down... My biggest hold up is BendPak I feel that I would have some sort of response or at least a diagram of the pump to see if i am missing something. I really think that something is allowing back pressure to be put on the pump and then to the motor causing it to not be capable of starting.
BertZegers
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A small screwdriver through the openings should turn the fan. No more than a little force.
Frank Surber
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Silly question but are you sure you are getting 220/240 volts to the motor or could 1 leg be shorted or broken or possibly only receiving back feed voltage from another piece of equipment
crazyal
Super Member
If it was me I would step back and rethink this. Stop focusing on the motor. Check each post to make sure that their movement isn't restricted in some way. My lift is only a 2 post lift so I don't know the mechanics of the 4 post but all 4 posts must be tied together so one can't rise up faster than the other 3.
It doesn't sound like a starter cap to me. Every one that I've had go bad just makes the motor not turn. If it's running under less load but not full load then that could mean the run cap isn't working. I assume it was also tested and found to be good. If so the only issue with the motor I can see is if the starting coil in the motor is bad. If a winding is shorted out to a different section of the winding the coil strength will not be strong enough to start the motor. I would think that a competent motor shop would be able to test the motor correctly though.
If all else fails I would remove the valve and take it all apart. It's possible that there's something inside it that's restricting the flow.
It doesn't sound like a starter cap to me. Every one that I've had go bad just makes the motor not turn. If it's running under less load but not full load then that could mean the run cap isn't working. I assume it was also tested and found to be good. If so the only issue with the motor I can see is if the starting coil in the motor is bad. If a winding is shorted out to a different section of the winding the coil strength will not be strong enough to start the motor. I would think that a competent motor shop would be able to test the motor correctly though.
If all else fails I would remove the valve and take it all apart. It's possible that there's something inside it that's restricting the flow.
