Car lift problem

   / Car lift problem
  • Thread Starter
#61  
Mine does.

yes and it should, i have questioned this. But if it was at max pressure already could the motor actually start from a dead stop?
 
   / Car lift problem #62  
yes and it should, i have questioned this. But if it was at max pressure already could the motor actually start from a dead stop?

I don't think it can start from max pressure , The check valve holds pressure but from the pump to the check valve should have low pressure correct ?
 
   / Car lift problem #63  
Simply stated, the pump must be able to produce more pressure than the pressure created by the max rated load of the lift. If not you are unable to lift, stop, resume lift.

Mine performs that task without hesitation.
 
   / Car lift problem #64  
So the next time you go out there, create the stall situation again, then pull the lower lever right after to see if it will start. This would releive the pressure as it is trying to start.

Can you explain how you tested the capacitor?

So tonight, I went to my dad's to plow the snow. I get there, and the house is cold. Furnace not running, the fan motor blew the breaker and would not start and kept tripping the breaker. He has an old big house with a 7,000 CFM blower and a 220V 3HP motor. I replaced it last year since it was acting up and blowing the breaker even with a new capacitor. So today, the capacitor was dead, and I did have a spare, so swapped it out and started right up. I have a digital capacitor tester, and it shows it is dead.

But, it sounds just like your issue. I think you have a motor issue or the pump is jamming somehow. If you had a bad hose or cylinder, you would still get some movement but slow especially since you can raise and lower it without a load. For it not to start at all I think it points to the pump or motor.
 
   / Car lift problem #65  
This really perks my interest. I'll wake up tonight thinking about it. :)
 
   / Car lift problem #66  
We tested the motor and it draws 60 amps when stuck, which we decided that it was not a motor problem, because it is using 6 times the regular working amps. When running it only uses 11 amps. I tested this with a clamp meter. I keep going back to the hose being the problem. I am still waiting on the manufactures opinion. I am really not sure but i learned a lot so far.

All the focus is on electrical or hydraulic, but don't rule out mechanical.

You say that 60 amps is 6 times the the working amps, which makes the working amps 10 Amps.
You measure 11 or 12 amps, which would indicate that the motor is 10% or 20% overloaded. In the video it sounds "normal" during the first push, (startup with low load on motor/pump)
But the motor has not enough start up power (the second push) to lift load. This could be a mechanical problem in cables, sheaves or...

IMPORTANT; What are the working amps or full load amps FLA on the motor plate?
Can you post a picture of the motor plate? If the 11 amps is more than FLA, than there is a hydraulic restriction or a mechanical problem.

Lift the platform to 5 feet high from the floor, then stop. Make sure platform is locked in the safeties, inspect the cylinder for abnormalities, than loosen the connection on the cylinder, than see if oil squirts out when you start the motor/pump. If yes, than there is no restriction towards the cylinder.
When the platform is locked in the safeties, you should be able to pull some slack in the cables ( with lever in "lower" ) and check the whole cable/sheave system.
 
   / Car lift problem
  • Thread Starter
#67  
Simply stated, the pump must be able to produce more pressure than the pressure created by the max rated load of the lift. If not you are unable to lift, stop, resume lift.

Mine performs that task without hesitation.

It has worked well for the last 8 years i have lifted my 9500 lbs. excavator on it. plenty of big trucks.i feel its gonna be a odd issue. I am not sure
 
   / Car lift problem #68  
It has worked well for the last 8 years i have lifted my 9500 lbs. excavator on it. plenty of big trucks.i feel its gonna be a odd issue. I am not sure

I agree. I call this the KISS principle. Keep It Simple Stupid. :)
 
   / Car lift problem #69  
All the focus is on electrical or hydraulic, but don't rule out mechanical.

You say that 60 amps is 6 times the the working amps, which makes the working amps 10 Amps.
You measure 11 or 12 amps, which would indicate that the motor is 10% or 20% overloaded. In the video it sounds "normal" during the first push, (startup with low load on motor/pump)
But the motor has not enough start up power (the second push) to lift load. This could be a mechanical problem in cables, sheaves or...

IMPORTANT; What are the working amps or full load amps FLA on the motor plate?
Can you post a picture of the motor plate? If the 11 amps is more than FLA, than there is a hydraulic restriction or a mechanical problem.

Lift the platform to 5 feet high from the floor, then stop. Make sure platform is locked in the safeties, inspect the cylinder for abnormalities, than loosen the connection on the cylinder, than see if oil squirts out when you start the motor/pump. If yes, than there is no restriction towards the cylinder.
When the platform is locked in the safeties, you should be able to pull some slack in the cables ( with lever in "lower" ) and check the whole cable/sheave system.


I think if it had a mechanical issue the pump would run against the pressure relief. That is assuming the pressure relief works and set to the correct pressure. But you never know.

I think a pressure gauge would be a good investment rather than throwing parts at it. Surplus center has them cheap.
 
   / Car lift problem
  • Thread Starter
#70  
So the next time you go out there, create the stall situation again, then pull the lower lever right after to see if it will start. This would releive the pressure as it is trying to start.

Can you explain how you tested the capacitor?

So tonight, I went to my dad's to plow the snow. I get there, and the house is cold. Furnace not running, the fan motor blew the breaker and would not start and kept tripping the breaker. He has an old big house with a 7,000 CFM blower and a 220V 3HP motor. I replaced it last year since it was acting up and blowing the breaker even with a new capacitor. So today, the capacitor was dead, and I did have a spare, so swapped it out and started right up. I have a digital capacitor tester, and it shows it is dead.

But, it sounds just like your issue. I think you have a motor issue or the pump is jamming somehow. If you had a bad hose or cylinder, you would still get some movement but slow especially since you can raise and lower it without a load. For it not to start at all I think it points to the pump or motor.

I took the motor in to a shop they replaced the start switch to the capacitor, i have tested the capacitor multiple times, even had it professionally tested. if its the motor its going through their front window.:shocked:
 

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