Shut Off Valve for my 3rd SCV???

[aczlan]

Many thanks, Aczian, Ericm979, and Bukitcase for your posts and links,

I really appreciate your taking the time to respond to what I am trying to do. I thought I included all the information, but I left a few things out.
First of all, I want to keep all the plumbing I have installed as is . . . secondly, I don't feel I have the ability to do any changes to the plumbing myself, which is why I was hoping to find JUST a plug in type On-Off valve with a lever or knob control. So ideally what I was looking for was a manual valve that would just plug into the existing front and rear dual couplings to control oil flow to each end. And these manual, plug in valves could removed at any time if I wanted to connect either front or rear implement to the actual dual couplings as is normally done.

Many thanks for your replies and suggestions . . . very much appreciated.

FredSG

I am confused, if you disconnect the implement from the quick connect that will stop all flow through the quick connect.
I thought you wanted to be able to (for example) leave the grapple connected while using your hydraulic top link.
You could certainly use high pressure ball valves as was suggested earlier on the hydraulic line going to the grapple, you could disconnect the male quick connect on the grapple and put a high pressure ball valve in there then reinstall the male quick connect.
Then you could do the same thing on your hydraulic top link with a ball valve between the hose going to the top link and the male quick disconnect.
That would let you turn off either one but keep the plumbing on the tractor unchanged.
A valve such as this one would probably work for that: 3/8" NPT Carbon Steel 725 PSI Ball Valve | Ball Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Aaron Z

 

[BukitCase]

Same here Aaron; btw, I sure miss Paul Harvey

Fred, realistically speaking I'm pretty sure we ALL want that elusive triangle known as "good, fast, cheap" - but it's rarely, if ever, gonna happen.

As the info trickles in, IME about the closest you might come is if you're willing to add a few adapters and short hoses so you could route the connections from each of those tees to one side of a dual selector valve - none that I know of would fit in the same physical place as the tees are now, but you might be able to find a convenient mounting place for either a mechanical or electrical dual diverter, then use a few short hoses and adapters to re-route ONE of the tees to each HALF of a dual diverter.

The upside of the extra effort is the option of doing EVERYTHING from the seat of the tractor AND keeping both ends of that hydraulic circuit (semi) permanently attached regardless of which pair of connections you're using.

This would NOT be real quick or real easy, but WOULD be very handy once it's done.

'Bout the best I can offer... Steve

 

[FredSG]

Aczian,

Your first two sentences in your last post -

(1) I am confused, if you disconnect the implement from the quick connect that will stop all flow through the quick connect. YES So what I'm looking to install is a plug-in manual off/on valve into the dual couplings located at the front and the rear of my tractor. I then want to take the two hoses of each implement and connect them to the plugged in manual valves at the front and rear.

If I keep the plug-in valves at each end in the Off position it would be like not having anything plugged in, no oil movement. If I connect a grapple to the front valve (connected into the dual couplings) I can turn the valve to the On position and work it from my Joystick. With such a valve on the rear dual couplings I could keep the rear implement connected all the time as long as the valve is in the Off position. Or turn the front valve Off if I wanted to turn the rear valve to the On position to use the rear implement.

(2) I thought you wanted to be able to (for example) leave the grapple connected while using your hydraulic top link. Yes, as explained above.

So in my elementary way of hydraulic thinking, I would need a manual plug-in valve that has two ports.

FredSG

 

[FredSG]

Guys,

Thanks so much for all your suggestions. Guess I'll have to let this idea go . . . I won't take up your time any longer. Appreciate your help, just the same.

FredSG

 

[aczlan]

Gus,

Thanks so much for all your suggestions. Guess I'll have to let this idea go . . . I won't take up your time any longer. Appreciate your help, just the same.

FredSG

It can be done, if you want to have something that "quick connects" inline here is what you need:
8x: 1/2" NPT Male x 3/8" NPT Male Straight 544-8-6 Adapter | NPT Male to NPT Male - Hex Nipple | NPT to NPT | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
4x: 3/8" NPT Carbon Steel 725 PSI Ball Valve | Ball Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
OR 4x: 3/8 NPT 8 GPM Prince WNV-6 Needle Valve | Flow Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
4x: 1/2" NPT Quick Coupler F/F Safeway S2-4 | Quick Coupler Pairs | Hydraulic Quick Couplers | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
Total $180-$210 plus shipping and taxes
You would assemble four sets like this:

---

If you are ok with taking apart the hose going to the grapple and the toplink at the quick connect and adding in a inline valve, you can do it for about $100 (plus taxes and shipping) using:
4x: 1/2" NPT Male x 3/8" NPT Male Straight 544-8-6 Adapter | NPT Male to NPT Male - Hex Nipple | NPT to NPT | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
4x: 3/8" NPT Carbon Steel 725 PSI Ball Valve | Ball Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
OR 4x: 3/8 NPT 8 GPM Prince WNV-6 Needle Valve | Flow Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
4x: https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...le-Straight-5405-06-08-Adapter-9-5405-6-8.axd (this might not be needed depending on how your hoses are setup, this is the piece with the X on it in the picture below).
You would assemble four sets like this (the hose is the hose currently going to your grapple or toplink, the male quick connect is the one currently installed on the hose):

You would need basic hand tools (wrenches) and pipe sealant (such as: https://www.amazon.com/CMPND-GRTWHT1OZ-OATEY-MfrPartNo-31229/dp/B00KHIJ0BA ) to seal the threaded joints.
If you were close to me, I would offer to help you through putting it together. It shouldn't take more than an hour or two.


Aaron Z

 

[BukitCase]

Exactly - and I'm even further away or I would also help - if all you want to accomplish is NOT having to unhook front to use back, and vice versa, Aaron's plan will get you there.
Sorry things got so complicated, I'm gettin' too old NOT to do things in a way that'll let me be lazy AFTERWARD... Steve

 

[FredSG]

Aaron and Steve,

Thanks again for the links and suggestions on how to tackle the manual valve idea. Steve, you can't be older than me, a Vietnam Combat Veteran, just looking for an easy way to get this valve idea done . . . not to open a "can of worms" again, but wish there was a simple single lever manual on-off valve out there that I could just buy and plug in.

Many thanks,

FredSG

 

[BukitCase]

Fred, Army Security Agency 1965-69, will be 75 in a couple months. There were two of us 4-year enlistees in my basic training company, all the rest were draftees. I lucked out and was chosen for an electronics mos that knew 'way too much for the brass to EVER want us captured, basically if anybody even chambered a round they'd evacuate US and THEN see to the women and children

The rest of my company wasn't so lucky... Steve

 

[Zebrafive]

Aaron and Steve,

looking for an easy way to get this valve idea done . . . not to open a "can of worms" again, but wish there was a simple single lever manual on-off valve out there that I could just buy and plug in.

Many thanks,

FredSG

You do not need a double valve that shuts off both lines at each set of quick couplers, just add ONE hydraulic ball valve for one hose of your top link cylinder and one hose of your grapple before the male quick coupler. You can use either hose from the top link cylinder and either hose from the grapple. You do NOT have to use the same hose (extend or retract) of each. just use which ever hose is easiest to add the valve to. The valve can be at either end of the hose too.


You only need to shut off ONE hydraulic line to the grapple or top link cylinder, it does not matter which line, and it (the top link cylinder or grapple) will not work. Your hydraulic circuits are a simple loop; fluid into a cylinder and path for fluid to exit the opposite side of the cylinder. Put ONE valve anywhere in the loop and you can stop the operation of that attachment.


I would get SAE rather than NPT threads on the ball valve. I would size to match the hoses for your attachment. If your grapple has 3/8" hose, 3/8" valve. If your top link cylinder has 1/4" hose, a 1/4" valve.


Two valves, fittings as required, done.

 

[aczlan]

You do not need a double valve that shuts off both lines at each set of quick couplers, just add ONE hydraulic ball valve for one hose of your top link cylinder and one hose of your grapple before the male quick coupler. You can use either hose from the top link cylinder and either hose from the grapple. You do NOT have to use the same hose (extend or retract) of each. just use which ever hose is easiest to add the valve to. The valve can be at either end of the hose too.


You only need to shut off ONE hydraulic line to the grapple or top link cylinder, it does not matter which line, and it (the top link cylinder or grapple) will not work. Your hydraulic circuits are a simple loop; fluid into a cylinder and path for fluid to exit the opposite side of the cylinder. Put ONE valve anywhere in the loop and you can stop the operation of that attachment.


I would get SAE rather than NPT threads on the ball valve. I would size to match the hoses for your attachment. If your grapple has 3/8" hose, 3/8" valve. If your top link cylinder has 1/4" hose, a 1/4" valve.


Two valves, fittings as required, done.

I would disagree on the threads, if you are matching the size, match the threads, one less fitting that way.
I suggested 3/8 for a reduced size valve (less likely to get in the way).

Aaron Z