L3901 vs L4701

[Bullwinkle123]

Lets say Im set on the L4701 because I think I am and I want to go take advantage of this 0% financing. I definitely want filled R4s. Should I have them add remotes to the rear? That would allow me to angle a grader hydraulically or use a wood chipper or something right?

With these packages I know they typically include the lightest duty cutter and box blade. Should I try to up those to heavier medium duty units or something?

Not sure if I mentioned it but Ive had a guy with an L3901 do some work on my property. Spread a couple loads of SB2 and mowed 11 acres of my pasture. I asked him about the L3901 and he said he likes it and is easy to trailer around but definitely would not go any smaller or less HP.

My thought process on the same questions recently, FWIW:

Re: Rear remotes. I would have liked that, as I need to do a lot of blade work. Certainly there are a _lot_ of people who say "get TnT". But the dealer said it would run something like an extra $2k for the remotes (can't remember if that was 2 rear SCV's or 3, and note that I also have a third function already installed for the front grapple, don't know if that affects the price), plus another $1k for all the TnT stuff, so ~$3k for a dealer installed fully enabled set of hydraulics that would control the blade. It was just one jump too many for me (what with the tractor and all the attachments I was buying).

On the one hand, taking delivery without the remotes was my biggest "hmmm, should I have done that while still at the dealer?" thing.
On the other hand, there were other people who said they do just fine without all the blade hydraulics, and I'm two years away from considering a rear snow blower.

In the end money ran out and me and my bad back will just have to try it and make do for now. Hopefully I can be smart about my driveway passes and avoid too may adjustments with planning, just like planning your day arond what attachments you're using to minimize changes. Not that I know, I haven't done the driveway work yet.


On the wood chipper thing, I want one, bad And I want it to have hydraulic rollers. However there are chippers with self contained hydraulics. I'm looking at the Woodmaxx 8H. It had great reviews on this forum, good price (under $3k?) and doesn't need tractor hydraulics. Like other things I'm deferring that for a year too, while I assimilate my new purchases, but the lack of tractor hydraulics doesn't look like a problem for the chipper, for me at least. If I was going to get a Wallenstein model, I think those aren't self contained hydraulics (I'm not sure), and even if the tractor supplies hydraulics, Wallenstein R models with hydraulics are _really_ expensive.


Re: Buckets and blades
I did spring for the upgrade to the heavier blade, as all advice says the heaver the blade, the better, and many people still add additional weights to the blade.
I also sprang for a heavy duty L2296 bucket, because I knew I was going to abuse the bucket a bit with a bucket spade (Tractor and Skidsteer bucket spade shovel), and my neighbor's sad crumpled bucket (even without a bucket spade) seemed like a cautionary tale, though I'm guessing that was more a case of "young operator abuse", and it's a much lighter tractor/bucket (and not a Kubota). I figured paying for a heavier bucket and bucket spade was still a lot cheaper than a backhoe for the light tree planting/transplanting duties I have. Won't replace a mini-ex if I need to add those new drainage ditches though.

re: trailering around
Yeah, good that you're considering transport in advance. I concluded my existing Ford F150 vehicle cannot _safely_ transport the MX5400 with loaded rears, much less with attachments, and it's rated for 9000-ish pounds. So if I'm going to move the tractor regularly by trailer, I'm going to need a bigger truck.

 

[Bullwinkle123]

One rear remote is a must have in my book, two is better. You will never pay less for them than at the time of your tractor purchase.

That was certainly my fear in not getting the rear hydraulics. And if you're going to use a snowblower or something, you'll probably want all three remotes, right? Don't you also need three SCV's for all three adjustment actions on a rear blade too?

Alas, my wallet cried "uncle" and this is my one existential buyer's remorse. I wish I had done it while at the dealer but it was just one cost too many. Not sure if the 50 hour maintenance is a good time to revisit that decision or not. Anybody know?

 

[RickB]

Once the initial sale is complete it usually won’t matter much. The opportunity to fold the cost (which may be discounted a bit) into a favorable rate financing deal is gone. A rear snowblower will not need more than two, and one worked well for me. And if you are squeaking about the cost of remotes you will not rush to buy a rear blade with hydraulic tilt, angle and offset.

 

[Motorboatin]

re: trailering around
Yeah, good that you're considering transport in advance. I concluded my existing Ford F150 vehicle cannot _safely_ transport the MX5400 with loaded rears, much less with attachments, and it's rated for 9000-ish pounds. So if I'm going to move the tractor regularly by trailer, I'm going to need a bigger truck.

If you can't safely tow an MX you shouldn't be towing the 4701. The weight difference between the two loaded tires or not is less than 450lbs without the loader

 

[ericm979]

You can do your own rear remotes and top and tilt for a lot less than the Kubota prices, and get better stuff. A lot of people have had problems with the Kubota rear remote valves for the grand Ls leaking down.

 

[old and tired]

What you can afford, tractor wise, in my opinion, should include the cost of Hydraulics for Top-N-Tilt, Grapple and probably a spare hydraulic line, too. :cool2: Also, calculate into the cost, implements to get some work done. I'm not saying you need to pay the dealer for any or all of this but leave some money in the bank to get them sooner than later.

 

[Cranblue]

My thought process on the same questions recently, FWIW:

Re: Rear remotes. I would have liked that, as I need to do a lot of blade work. Certainly there are a _lot_ of people who say "get TnT". But the dealer said it would run something like an extra $2k for the remotes (can't remember if that was 2 rear SCV's or 3, and note that I also have a third function already installed for the front grapple, don't know if that affects the price), plus another $1k for all the TnT stuff, so ~$3k for a dealer installed fully enabled set of hydraulics that would control the blade. It was just one jump too many for me (what with the tractor and all the attachments I was buying).

On the one hand, taking delivery without the remotes was my biggest "hmmm, should I have done that while still at the dealer?" thing.
On the other hand, there were other people who said they do just fine without all the blade hydraulics, and I'm two years away from considering a rear snow blower.

In the end money ran out and me and my bad back will just have to try it and make do for now. Hopefully I can be smart about my driveway passes and avoid too may adjustments with planning, just like planning your day arond what attachments you're using to minimize changes. Not that I know, I haven't done the driveway work yet.


On the wood chipper thing, I want one, bad And I want it to have hydraulic rollers. However there are chippers with self contained hydraulics. I'm looking at the Woodmaxx 8H. It had great reviews on this forum, good price (under $3k?) and doesn't need tractor hydraulics. Like other things I'm deferring that for a year too, while I assimilate my new purchases, but the lack of tractor hydraulics doesn't look like a problem for the chipper, for me at least. If I was going to get a Wallenstein model, I think those aren't self contained hydraulics (I'm not sure), and even if the tractor supplies hydraulics, Wallenstein R models with hydraulics are _really_ expensive.


Re: Buckets and blades
I did spring for the upgrade to the heavier blade, as all advice says the heaver the blade, the better, and many people still add additional weights to the blade.
I also sprang for a heavy duty L2296 bucket, because I knew I was going to abuse the bucket a bit with a bucket spade (Tractor and Skidsteer bucket spade shovel), and my neighbor's sad crumpled bucket (even without a bucket spade) seemed like a cautionary tale, though I'm guessing that was more a case of "young operator abuse", and it's a much lighter tractor/bucket (and not a Kubota). I figured paying for a heavier bucket and bucket spade was still a lot cheaper than a backhoe for the light tree planting/transplanting duties I have. Won't replace a mini-ex if I need to add those new drainage ditches though.

re: trailering around
Yeah, good that you're considering transport in advance. I concluded my existing Ford F150 vehicle cannot _safely_ transport the MX5400 with loaded rears, much less with attachments, and it's rated for 9000-ish pounds. So if I'm going to move the tractor regularly by trailer, I'm going to need a bigger truck.

I got the piranha cutting edge on front bucket like 300 bucks works well I知 very impressed with design !!! I didn稚 load tires but got a Titian cat 2 ballast box weighs about 1200 lbs 11 80 lb bags of concrete quick hitch compatible easy off and on.Here in NC if we get good rain ground gets easy to rut up why I didn稚 load tires or wheel weights but I知 not mowing on slops etc.I did get 6 ft box blade land pride pulls it fine graded ground and used it on stone drive but I also have a Gravel Rascal by ABI that is designed for stone and I use for final grade of stone pull with ATV. I also didn稚 get front Valve Kit but bought forks 4K set moved trees with them cheaper than grapple and forks have numerous uses around home and property a must have my opinion !!! I think 4701 will serve you well I知 very pleased with mine and I had a lot of years running heavy equipment back hoes excavators dozer and front end loaders if you know machines limitations and spec to your needs it will do the job !!!

 

[old and tired]

This just popped up on Craig's list... "I'm getting rid of this monster and getting a smaller one"

It's got 290 hours.

 

[Cranblue]

Got a quote for both tractors with packages. 5 brush hog and box blade with the 3901 and 6 implements with the 4701. Exactly $5k difference between the tractors. Kubota and Deere and everyone are doing 0% right now because of Covid so I figured good time to buy.

I have 20 acres. Gravel driveway to maintain. 10 acre pasture to brush hog plus some trails in the woods. Loader work planned to build and maintain a shooting backstop.

I like the idea of more capability with the 4701. But I like the price of the 3901 obviously. Ground gets wet out here too so worried about turf tearing up more with the 4701.

Dont want to regret size though because Ive done that with a Deere mower. Bought a z915e last year and want to trade up for more power so I want to avoid doing that again.

Well 5k can buy some implements for sure !!! If 3901 loader is enough you値l be fine 39 hp good power.Reason I went with 4701 was loader and back hoe size for my property around 400 trees piled and stumped.My 4701 gets threw our wood lot pretty easily on utv trail with sun shade on ropes !!! Bigger is not always better

 

[gsganzer]

I have a L3800 and I run a heavy 5' rotary cutter. It would handle a 6' medium duty without a problem.

If most of your tasks are mowing, and just general work, the L3901 is perfectly fine. If you're planning to do anything with round bales, you need to jump up to the L4701.