If you end up fixing it, take measurements of the hole location, V it out, weld it up making sure to fill the bolt holes as you'll never save them nor get a good weld trying to save them. Put a doubler on the inside wrapping around the edge using a piece of 4 x 4 x 3/8 angle with one leg cut down to wrap around the broken edge so you'd end up with a 4 x 1ア angle. Redrill the holes and weld it where the weld won't cause any undue stress.
The other leg, notch it out to fit over the gussett/brace on the inside. Be aware of where you end or start your welds so you don't have either a start or finish where there's be any concentrated stress.
What ever you do to one side, be it replace or repair, you're going to have to do to the other as well and reinforce it as well.
Get rid of those cheap ***** bolts and lockwashers, go with a gr10.9, locknuts and flats. Not saying the bolts were loose but if they were, it didn't help the situation at all.
Saying all that, here's hoping the dealer supports you.........Mike
Hi Mike! I will definitely get this advice to my friend who can weld so he can break it down. I don't understand much of it :laughing:
When I bought my CK20S, I was under the impression the loader was like a loader on my Case 580E or a skid steer.
The dealer sat me down and explained in DETAIL what a CUT loader is, and what it is not.
It is not a piece of construction equipment such as a Skid or backhoe, as he said "It is not made to slam into the dirt pile like a skid, and will not be covered if it is"
It is made to pick up dirt, gravel, etc out of a loose pile and move, and drop.
Slackdaddy, although this is my first tractor I was thankfully able to get this info ahead of time through the forums. I didn't think I was working it hard and I tried to keep that in mind while working. I have plenty of time and haven't been in a rush to get this done, though I could likely have gotten it done in a week with a rented backhoe.