Ford 1700 Oil types and amounts

[Graelb]

Hi Again!

Planning on the clutch split this weekend, and figured I'd redo all the oil while I'm at it.

I picked up 2.5gal 14w30 Rotella T4 (I THINK that will work?)

And I have 5 gal of Napa aw46 hydraulic oil. Just wanted to make sure those will both work in this thing =)

In another thread looking for this stuff, I saw a guy was talking about water in the transmission fluid caused by pressure washing the beast. I just pressure washed the crap out of it, should I be concerned?

 

[JC-jetro]

for Engine oil I ave used Rotella 15w-40 as long as I remember. Owner manual recommend 30 W for summer use. NH Master gold 15w-40 was also what I used a ew time. Hyd fluid needs to meet Ford M1C-134-A. attached you can find the sepecs on aw46byu used and did not see reference to compatibility with 134-a . Make sure the bucket has reference of compatibility to ford oil. TSC has traveleror Mystick that complies with 134-a and that is what I have used twice for my hyd fluid change. You will get moisture in your electrical connection point, breather cap in to diffy and shifter boot on transmission. if you have not changed the oil yet I would not worry about it. Leaf blower is what I used and if I use water I would only use a sprayer nozzle only on a grden hose and then I am very careful.

 

[Roadworthy]

Does the transmission use the same oil system as the hydraulics on that model? If they share the same bath the #46 hydraulic fluid is probably not the right choice. It won't have the additives for the transmission.

 

[JC-jetro]

Does the transmission use the same oil system as the hydraulics on that model? If they share the same bath the #46 hydraulic fluid is probably not the right choice. It won't have the additives for the transmission.

Yes it is. on MSDS sheet, I was not able to clearly see if that oil is compatible. Certainly, OP needs to not chance it.

 

[Graelb]

Yes it is. on MSDS sheet, I was not able to clearly see if that oil is compatible. Certainly, OP needs to not chance it.

Talked with Napa, they're going to just swap the fluids with the compatible 134-a fluid. So good to go there.

There's two bolts I need to pull to drain the transmission/hydraulic fluid, right? One right in the center of the rear axel on the bottom (in front of the hitch), and one on the right hand side under the transmission, next to the plugs?

Should I pull the suction line and check the filter while I'm at it?

 

[JC-jetro]

1- good on 134-a. That's a must.
2-yes, Look at the attached pics. 2nd pic shows the drain right under diffy.



3-yes , you really need to do it, can't emphasize it enough. Look at the before and after. Bet ya a buck , you's will not be clean either.

 

[Graelb]

1- good on 134-a. That's a must.
2-yes, Look at the attached pics. 2nd pic shows the drain right under diffy.

View attachment 657699View attachment 657700View attachment 657707

3-yes , you really need to do it, can't emphasize it enough. Look at the before and after. Bet ya a buck , you's will not be clean either.

View attachment 657702View attachment 657701

haha will do then. That's the plan after splitting her open and replacing the clutch.

Now the Manual says you have to pull the gas tank, starter, and instrument panel off when splitting this baby, can you confirm?

 

[JC-jetro]

Gas tank and starter need to come off for sure and both are real simple on 1700. I don't think the instrument panel need to come which is quite difficult as the wiring is on harness and disassembly is difficult . I have removed the bolt from the panel and leaned back toward the operator seat to allow steering column repair and eventually column replacement. That you can do without messing much with the wires if you need to.

 

[Graelb]

Gas tank and starter need to come off for sure and both are real simple on 1700. I don't think the instrument panel need to come which is quite difficult as the wiring is on harness and disassembly is difficult . I have removed the bolt from the panel and leaned back toward the operator seat to allow steering column repair and eventually column replacement. That you can do without messing much with the wires if you need to.

Yep, got it apart this afternoon. Flywheel is a little rusty, and wet, maybe from the pressure washing. Grabbing a pickle fork to finish pulling the tie rods off.

 

[JC-jetro]

Pitman arm remover perhaps works a bit better and avoids damaging the rubber boot. Obviously Hydraulic lines both supply and return need to come off to allow split. I guess you have done that.