Rubber boots are done anyway, have as free on order
Rubber boots are done anyway, have as free on order
Think it's okay to spray down the inside of the bell housing and then spray paint?
Current pics of the rebuild
Ford rehab - Google Photos
Also... how easily does that release bearing come off? do I just use a puller?
Current pics of the rebuild
Ford rehab - Google Photos
Also... how easily does that release bearing come off? do I just use a puller?
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JC-jetro
Elite Member
Looking real good, Nice progress so far. You'll have it up and running in no time. I would clean the bell housing real good with wire brush, put some oil based primer and some good enamel spray so it would stick good. Cast Iron is a bit porous so it soak us the paint good. Release bearing should come off real easily. Can use puller if you need to and damaging it is no issue as you are replacing it. Now did you mean release bearing or pilot bearing. Pilot bearing is harder to pull out, you'd need a special puller. Pilot bearing is on the flywheel. End of the transmission input shaft rides on the inner race of pilot bearing. Look at the attached pic for a removal tool .
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Totally meant pilot bearing, but I might try getting it out with hydraulic action using grease instead. Haven't decided yet. Thanks for the pics! I'm sure we can get it out.
Have to admit, the cherry picker was amazing on the front end.
Now, since this thing is 4wd, we had to disconnect the front driveshaft, I'm hoping that it'll go back together nice and clean without much fuss.
Have to admit, the cherry picker was amazing on the front end.
Now, since this thing is 4wd, we had to disconnect the front driveshaft, I'm hoping that it'll go back together nice and clean without much fuss.
Got it! (Taking a break for fooood)
Took much convincing, a little hammering, and ratchet straps, but I got it to line up and join! Now to get all the bolts back in and all the outside stuff back on.
We accidentally drained the front differential :thumbdown: Trying to take off teh driveshaft... oops! How do you fill that thing?
Took much convincing, a little hammering, and ratchet straps, but I got it to line up and join! Now to get all the bolts back in and all the outside stuff back on.
We accidentally drained the front differential :thumbdown: Trying to take off teh driveshaft... oops! How do you fill that thing?
JC-jetro
Elite Member
My ford is 2 wheel drive so I don't have what you have. On my Kubota and many others, you have fill plug on top, a level plug on the side and drain on the bottom. You will drain first, keep the tractor on level ground, open the level hole and fill from the till the oil comes off the level hole. I can go to NH and check but I gotta get some ZZZZs can check tomorrow if you can't find it.
Man, that thing did not wanna go back together. I kept fighting getting the studs in the bell housing aligned, and aligning the 4wd driveshaft, got it up tight and held tension with ratchet straps, then gave it a little hammer lovin, and everything fell into place.
I don't have a NH around here, but I'll look at the front differential in the morning, I know on the very front of it there's a zerk, but not sure what else is going on there. Busted the fuel sediment bowl trying to get a new filter in :fiery: so I gotta grab a new one of those...
Drained the hydraulic fluid, and there was some milky greenish goodness ( Shared album - Cody Croslow - Google Photos ) in there. Going to get her all back together, loader and all, and run it for a day or two before draining some of the hydraulic fluid, and seeing if it's clean or not. Pics updated in the album posted above. You were totally right, that hydraulic filter was diiiiiirty.
One more question if you don't mind... Is there an easy way to tell when the hydraulic fluid is full? I haven't pulled the filler cap off yet, but I'm assuming there's a dipstick? the manual says it takes 5.8gal of Hydraulic fluid, so I guess I'll just empty a 5gal in there, run it for a few minutes, and then check the dipstick?
JC-jetro
Elite Member
1-Attached you will find the front diffy and also the axle diagram. You will find the fill point and drain there. The zerk are obviously for greasing the joint and not filling diffy or axle.
2- It would be a bit difficult to push both ends together on a trailer bed. It would have been easier in concrete floor it it were available.
3- Fram Fuel filter CG-9271 would fit o r OEM SBA36072002.
4- You must replace the entire hyd fluid to protect your investment. Transmission and hyd sytem uses the same common reservoir and oil. yii need to protect your hyd pump $$$$ and Transmission $$$$.
5- There is a dip stick after yiy remove the fill cap on the right side of the where the stick shift is. don't screw in the cap to measure oil level. There is a red band on the dip rod that shows the proper level.
6- You fill till dip stick is satisfied. need to circulate to fill the suction and discharge pipes are filled to get the correct level.
JC,