Ford 1700 Oil types and amounts

Graelb · May 28, 2020

Hi Again!

Planning on the clutch split this weekend, and figured I'd redo all the oil while I'm at it.

I picked up 2.5gal 14w30 Rotella T4 (I THINK that will work?)

And I have 5 gal of Napa aw46 hydraulic oil. Just wanted to make sure those will both work in this thing =)

In another thread looking for this stuff, I saw a guy was talking about water in the transmission fluid caused by pressure washing the beast. I just pressure washed the crap out of it, should I be concerned?

JC-jetro · May 29, 2020

for Engine oil I ave used Rotella 15w-40 as long as I remember. Owner manual recommend 30 W for summer use. NH Master gold 15w-40 was also what I used a ew time. Hyd fluid needs to meet Ford M1C-134-A. attached you can find the sepecs on aw46byu used and did not see reference to compatibility with 134-a . Make sure the bucket has reference of compatibility to ford oil. TSC has traveleror Mystick that complies with 134-a and that is what I have used twice for my hyd fluid change. You will get moisture in your electrical connection point, breather cap in to diffy and shifter boot on transmission. if you have not changed the oil yet I would not worry about it. Leaf blower is what I used and if I use water I would only use a sprayer nozzle only on a grden hose and then I am very careful.

Roadworthy · May 29, 2020

Does the transmission use the same oil system as the hydraulics on that model? If they share the same bath the #46 hydraulic fluid is probably not the right choice. It won't have the additives for the transmission.

JC-jetro · May 29, 2020

Roadworthy said:
Does the transmission use the same oil system as the hydraulics on that model? If they share the same bath the #46 hydraulic fluid is probably not the right choice. It won't have the additives for the transmission.

Yes it is. on MSDS sheet, I was not able to clearly see if that oil is compatible. Certainly, OP needs to not chance it.

Graelb · May 29, 2020

JC-jetro said:
Yes it is. on MSDS sheet, I was not able to clearly see if that oil is compatible. Certainly, OP needs to not chance it.

Talked with Napa, they're going to just swap the fluids with the compatible 134-a fluid. So good to go there.

There's two bolts I need to pull to drain the transmission/hydraulic fluid, right? One right in the center of the rear axel on the bottom (in front of the hitch), and one on the right hand side under the transmission, next to the plugs?

Should I pull the suction line and check the filter while I'm at it?

JC-jetro · May 29, 2020

1- good on 134-a. That's a must.
2-yes, Look at the attached pics. 2nd pic shows the drain right under diffy.

3-yes , you really need to do it, can't emphasize it enough. Look at the before and after. Bet ya a buck , you's will not be clean either.

Graelb · May 29, 2020

JC-jetro said:
1- good on 134-a. That's a must.
2-yes, Look at the attached pics. 2nd pic shows the drain right under diffy.

View attachment 657699 View attachment 657700 View attachment 657707

3-yes , you really need to do it, can't emphasize it enough. Look at the before and after. Bet ya a buck , you's will not be clean either.

View attachment 657702 View attachment 657701

haha will do then. That's the plan after splitting her open and replacing the clutch.

Now the Manual says you have to pull the gas tank, starter, and instrument panel off when splitting this baby, can you confirm?

JC-jetro · May 29, 2020

Gas tank and starter need to come off for sure and both are real simple on 1700. I don't think the instrument panel need to come which is quite difficult as the wiring is on harness and disassembly is difficult . I have removed the bolt from the panel and leaned back toward the operator seat to allow steering column repair and eventually column replacement. That you can do without messing much with the wires if you need to.

Graelb · May 29, 2020

JC-jetro said:
Gas tank and starter need to come off for sure and both are real simple on 1700. I don't think the instrument panel need to come which is quite difficult as the wiring is on harness and disassembly is difficult . I have removed the bolt from the panel and leaned back toward the operator seat to allow steering column repair and eventually column replacement. That you can do without messing much with the wires if you need to.

Yep, got it apart this afternoon. Flywheel is a little rusty, and wet, maybe from the pressure washing. Grabbing a pickle fork to finish pulling the tie rods off.

JC-jetro · May 29, 2020

Pitman arm remover perhaps works a bit better and avoids damaging the rubber boot. Obviously Hydraulic lines both supply and return need to come off to allow split. I guess you have done that.

Graelb · May 29, 2020

JC-jetro said:
Pitman arm remover perhaps works a bit better and avoids damaging the rubber boot. Obviously Hydraulic lines both supply and return need to come off to allow split. I guess you have done that.

Rubber boots are done anyway, have as free on order

Graelb · May 30, 2020

Think it's okay to spray down the inside of the bell housing and then spray paint?

Current pics of the rebuild
Ford rehab - Google Photos

Also... how easily does that release bearing come off? do I just use a puller?

JC-jetro · May 30, 2020

Graelb said:
Think it's okay to spray down the inside of the bell housing and then spray paint?

Current pics of the rebuild
Ford rehab - Google Photos

Also... how easily does that release bearing come off? do I just use a puller?

Looking real good, Nice progress so far. You'll have it up and running in no time. I would clean the bell housing real good with wire brush, put some oil based primer and some good enamel spray so it would stick good. Cast Iron is a bit porous so it soak us the paint good. Release bearing should come off real easily. Can use puller if you need to and damaging it is no issue as you are replacing it. Now did you mean release bearing or pilot bearing. Pilot bearing is harder to pull out, you'd need a special puller. Pilot bearing is on the flywheel. End of the transmission input shaft rides on the inner race of pilot bearing. Look at the attached pic for a removal tool .

Graelb · May 31, 2020

Totally meant pilot bearing, but I might try getting it out with hydraulic action using grease instead. Haven't decided yet. Thanks for the pics! I'm sure we can get it out.

Have to admit, the cherry picker was amazing on the front end.

Now, since this thing is 4wd, we had to disconnect the front driveshaft, I'm hoping that it'll go back together nice and clean without much fuss.

Graelb · May 31, 2020

Got it! (Taking a break for fooood)

Took much convincing, a little hammering, and ratchet straps, but I got it to line up and join! Now to get all the bolts back in and all the outside stuff back on.

We accidentally drained the front differential :thumbdown: Trying to take off teh driveshaft... oops! How do you fill that thing?

JC-jetro · May 31, 2020

My ford is 2 wheel drive so I don't have what you have. On my Kubota and many others, you have fill plug on top, a level plug on the side and drain on the bottom. You will drain first, keep the tractor on level ground, open the level hole and fill from the till the oil comes off the level hole. I can go to NH and check but I gotta get some ZZZZs can check tomorrow if you can't find it.

Graelb · May 31, 2020

JC-jetro said:
My ford is 2 wheel drive so I don't have what you have. On my Kubota and many others, you have fill plug on top, a level plug on the side and drain on the bottom. You will drain first, keep the tractor on level ground, open the level hole and fill from the till the oil comes off the level hole. I can go to NH and check but I gotta get some ZZZZs can check tomorrow if you can't find it.

Man, that thing did not wanna go back together. I kept fighting getting the studs in the bell housing aligned, and aligning the 4wd driveshaft, got it up tight and held tension with ratchet straps, then gave it a little hammer lovin, and everything fell into place.

I don't have a NH around here, but I'll look at the front differential in the morning, I know on the very front of it there's a zerk, but not sure what else is going on there. Busted the fuel sediment bowl trying to get a new filter in :fiery: so I gotta grab a new one of those...

Drained the hydraulic fluid, and there was some milky greenish goodness ( Shared album - Cody Croslow - Google Photos ) in there. Going to get her all back together, loader and all, and run it for a day or two before draining some of the hydraulic fluid, and seeing if it's clean or not. Pics updated in the album posted above. You were totally right, that hydraulic filter was diiiiiirty.

One more question if you don't mind... Is there an easy way to tell when the hydraulic fluid is full? I haven't pulled the filler cap off yet, but I'm assuming there's a dipstick? the manual says it takes 5.8gal of Hydraulic fluid, so I guess I'll just empty a 5gal in there, run it for a few minutes, and then check the dipstick?

JC-jetro · Jun 1, 2020

Graelb said:
Man, that thing did not wanna go back together. I kept fighting getting the studs in the bell housing aligned, and aligning the 4wd driveshaft, got it up tight and held tension with ratchet straps, then gave it a little hammer lovin, and everything fell into place.

I don't have a NH around here, but I'll look at the front differential in the morning, I know on the very front of it there's a zerk, but not sure what else is going on there. Busted the fuel sediment bowl trying to get a new filter in :fiery: so I gotta grab a new one of those...

Drained the hydraulic fluid, and there was some milky greenish goodness ( Shared album - Cody Croslow - Google Photos ) in there. Going to get her all back together, loader and all, and run it for a day or two before draining some of the hydraulic fluid, and seeing if it's clean or not. Pics updated in the album posted above. You were totally right, that hydraulic filter was diiiiiirty.

One more question if you don't mind... Is there an easy way to tell when the hydraulic fluid is full? I haven't pulled the filler cap off yet, but I'm assuming there's a dipstick? the manual says it takes 5.8gal of Hydraulic fluid, so I guess I'll just empty a 5gal in there, run it for a few minutes, and then check the dipstick?

1-Attached you will find the front diffy and also the axle diagram. You will find the fill point and drain there. The zerk are obviously for greasing the joint and not filling diffy or axle.
2- It would be a bit difficult to push both ends together on a trailer bed. It would have been easier in concrete floor it it were available.
3- Fram Fuel filter CG-9271 would fit o r OEM SBA36072002.
4- You must replace the entire hyd fluid to protect your investment. Transmission and hyd sytem uses the same common reservoir and oil. yii need to protect your hyd pump $$$$ and Transmission $$$$.
5- There is a dip stick after yiy remove the fill cap on the right side of the where the stick shift is. don't screw in the cap to measure oil level. There is a red band on the dip rod that shows the proper level.
6- You fill till dip stick is satisfied. need to circulate to fill the suction and discharge pipes are filled to get the correct level.

JC,