Wiring diagram for a Toro 8-32 Professional riding mower

jpilk99 · Jun 12, 2020

pmsmechanic said:
Everything you've done sounds good to me.

If there is no wire coming out from under the flywheel or anywhere else then there are no points.

The only thing I can think of at this point is that the new magneto/coil that you bought is no good. Can you remove one from a running engine and try that?

If you remove the kill wire from the coil you've removed anything that can keep the engine from sparking so then the new coil should work.

I don't think I have a spare coil laying around or I'd take a picture and post it.

What brand/model of engine are you working on? I might be telling you totally the wrong information too.

Thanks so much PMS

. It's an 8 HP Briggs engine, "Industrial/Commercial" or "I/C". Model 193707 and Type 0307-01. The old coil 'looked' good, but, that don't mean nuthin. I have a hard time picturing that the new one would be a dud. Possible, but, I've not had that happen.

I'm going to take the coil off, clean the snot out of everything (magnets, connection point(s) of coil, ...anything) and then re-install it. Am I correct that you want the coil as close as possible to rotor/fly-wheel without touching? Or is there a certain gap, like a spark plug, that it should be back from the magnets? I honestly just try to orient the new in the exact same position/proximity as old....

Maybe I'll upload some more pics. Thanks so much.

Jay

jpilk99 · Jun 12, 2020

jpilk99 said:
Thanks so much PMS . It's an 8 HP Briggs engine, "Industrial/Commercial" or "I/C". Model 193707 and Type 0307-01. The old coil 'looked' good, but, that don't mean nuthin. I have a hard time picturing that the new one would be a dud. Possible, but, I've not had that happen.

I'm going to take the coil off, clean the snot out of everything (magnets, connection point(s) of coil, ...anything) and then re-install it. Am I correct that you want the coil as close as possible to rotor/fly-wheel without touching? Or is there a certain gap, like a spark plug, that it should be back from the magnets? I honestly just try to orient the new in the exact same position/proximity as old....

Maybe I'll upload some more pics (1st pic is after tightening up gap, 2nd was original gap, 3rd is cleaned magnet face of rotor). Thanks so much.

Jay

Got a wire brush drill bit and scrubbed the magnet surface on the rotor til shiny clean. (Wasn't really dirty before). Took picture of coil and the gap, maybe 1/16", and tightened it to ...half that. Still no spark.

What the heck?

Confirmed the test light works on other small engine. Did the 'pull plug out put in ignition wire and hold to block while trying to start'... nothing.

jpilk99 · Jun 12, 2020

jpilk99 said:
Got a wire brush drill bit and scrubbed the magnet surface on the rotor til shiny clean. (Wasn't really dirty before). Took picture of coil and the gap, maybe 1/16", and tightened it to ...half that. Still no spark.

What the heck?

Confirmed the test light works on other small engine. Did the 'pull plug out put in ignition wire and hold to block while trying to start'... nothing.

And, I just grabbed my ohm-meter and tested the old coil and there's no continuity from end of ignition wire where it plugs onto spark plug and body of coil where it bolts to engine. Same test on new coil and it's around 2.30 resistance, which I"m told is proper....

Someone suggested flywheel may have jumped over key holding it onto crank (if you will). I have no idea why this POS won't spark now. Killing me

pmsmechanic · Jun 12, 2020

Your pictures all look good to me. It's the way I would do it. There is supposed to be a certain gap which I don't remember. I've always assumed that the closer the gap made for a stronger spark.

If the flywheel had broken the key and slipped on the crankshaft you should still get a spark. Just not at the right time. Are you brave enough to hold onto the coil wire, spin the engine over and see if there is any tickle there at all? I used to test out in the field by holding a piece of grass about two inches from the spark plug and pulling the rope. If I got a light tickle the spark was good. Your mileage may vary on that idea. I have very dry skin and can hold a live 120 volt wire without feeling anything.

Here's some info from B&S. Maybe this will help. There is a link to testing coils on this page.
How do I repair ignition problems? | Briggs & Stratton

This is a picture of a B&S coil. Probably not the right one but I just wanted to point out that the round silver "button" between the two legs of the coil is the trigger for the spark. I believe all new coils come like this. The older coils don't have it but can be converted to electronic.

jpilk99 · Jun 12, 2020

pmsmechanic said:
Your pictures all look good to me. It's the way I would do it. There is supposed to be a certain gap which I don't remember. I've always assumed that the closer the gap made for a stronger spark.

If the flywheel had broken the key and slipped on the crankshaft you should still get a spark. Just not at the right time. Are you brave enough to hold onto the coil wire, spin the engine over and see if there is any tickle there at all? I used to test out in the field by holding a piece of grass about two inches from the spark plug and pulling the rope. If I got a light tickle the spark was good. Your mileage may vary on that idea. I have very dry skin and can hold a live 120 volt wire without feeling anything.

Here's some info from B&S. Maybe this will help. There is a link to testing coils on this page.
How do I repair ignition problems? | Briggs & Stratton

View attachment 659474

This is a picture of a B&S coil. Probably not the right one but I just wanted to point out that the round silver "button" between the two legs of the coil is the trigger for the spark. I believe all new coils come like this. The older coils don't have it but can be converted to electronic.

Thanks so much for you help here! I may try the "tickle" test, but, I"m 99% there ain't nuthin coming out of the spark plug other than my sadness.

That coil is identical to the one I removed, and replaced. Button and kill switch connector. I know my old one was dead as there was no continuity from ignition wire tip to coil body, whereas the new has infinite. But still no spark. I'll check that link and see what I learn.

Never had this much trouble before. Wanh!!!!

jpilk99 · Jun 13, 2020

pmsmechanic said:
Your pictures all look good to me. It's the way I would do it. There is supposed to be a certain gap which I don't remember. I've always assumed that the closer the gap made for a stronger spark.

If the flywheel had broken the key and slipped on the crankshaft you should still get a spark. Just not at the right time. Are you brave enough to hold onto the coil wire, spin the engine over and see if there is any tickle there at all? I used to test out in the field by holding a piece of grass about two inches from the spark plug and pulling the rope. If I got a light tickle the spark was good. Your mileage may vary on that idea. I have very dry skin and can hold a live 120 volt wire without feeling anything.

Here's some info from B&S. Maybe this will help. There is a link to testing coils on this page.
How do I repair ignition problems? | Briggs & Stratton

View attachment 659474

This is a picture of a B&S coil. Probably not the right one but I just wanted to point out that the round silver "button" between the two legs of the coil is the trigger for the spark. I believe all new coils come like this. The older coils don't have it but can be converted to electronic.

OH MY GAHHHHHD. I'M AN IDIOT.

I had the coil on UPSIDE DOWN!!!! Running find now. Very sorry my stupidity wasted y'alls time. Thank you kindly for the guidance.

Jay

pmsmechanic · Jun 13, 2020

Hey we all have moments we aren't proud of. Just maybe something in this thread will help someone through their frustrating times.

jpilk99 · Jun 19, 2020

pmsmechanic said:
Hey we all have moments we aren't proud of. Just maybe something in this thread will help someone through their frustrating times.

This could be another one of those "we all have moments we aren't proud of", but, after getting things running pretty well, mowing, etc. I thought that the machine would run better with a carb cleaning. So, I took pictures of everything prior to removal, then took off carb, cleaned, and now reinstalling ...and the throttle linkage popped off wherever it was anchored ---- AND I CAN'T FIND WHAT THAT ANCHOR IS?

What an arse! Can anyone shed light on where that butt end of the throttle linkage goes? It's somehow sitting (hiding) behind the choke/throttle arm adjustment mechanism --- conveniently out of sight on every picture I took.