Blowing white smoke

[airbiscuit]

Does the Kubota Diesel run at the same RPMs as the Wisconsin Gas? You may have to change the weights in the variable speed drive .

 

[fatjay]

Does the Kubota Diesel run at the same RPMs as the Wisconsin Gas? You may have to change the weights in the variable speed drive .

Kubota is 3000rpm, wisconsin is 2800rpm. The variable speed drive is hydraulically controlled though, not centrifugal.

 

[airbiscuit]

That should be pretty sweet once repowered.

 

[fatjay]

I was wrong. Apparently the wisconsin is 3600rpm, and I'm having a hard time nailing down the details. Some say it's peak torque at 1800rpm, some say 2400rpm. Also, there's a hydraulic pump option that bolts to the engine. Which may be easier than adapting the original pump, if i can find some info on the flow that would be great.

NEW KUBOTA DIESEL OIL PRESSURE PUMP PART # 67111-7613 | eBay

Drilling motor mounts video: https://i.imgur.com/dnRMgTp.mp4

I got the engine in and it fits like a glove. No hoist so a combination of straps and arms, which wasn't fun. Just wanted to get an idea of the fitment and to take measurements. I need to convert to chain drive, there's no way I can keep the belt drive and variable speed with the clearances I have. I'm going to replace a bulk of the hard lines with flexible line to make it easier. I have a hydraulic shop locally that will make me anything i want.

This will be the last project in this garage, and thank God. My wife says if my life was a movie it would be "A million ways to die in the garage".

 

[airbiscuit]

So how do you replace the belt style variable drive? Chain drive to hydraulic pump to hydraulic motor and keep using your steering clutches?

 

[fatjay]

The ratio will have to be fixed for chain drive. I'll get a sprocket on the motor and replace the pulley on the jackshaft with a sprocket. The whole system is chain drive, movement is not hydraulic at all, only the lift arms and bucket are hydraulic.

For the old hydraulic pump I won't need it, there's a hydraulic pump for the motor itself that's driven by the injection pump gear. Originally I was thinking of putting a sprocket on the other end of the engine where the pulley drives the water pump as there's a splined shaft out of there, but with a pump on the motor that will be easier.

 

[rew1953]

Rew1953, you havent read beyond the first post have you.

I have had 2 blown head gaskets and they both matched the symptoms descibed in the post. Granted both were gas 4 cylinders with Al heads. Seemed that was a regular problem in the early days of Al heads.

 

[fatjay]

I have had 2 blown head gaskets and they both matched the symptoms descibed in the post. Granted both were gas 4 cylinders with Al heads. Seemed that was a regular problem in the early days of Al heads.

Was a hole in the top of the piston. I soaked the heads for days in penetrating oil, applied heat, impact wrench, and still broke 7 of 34 bolts just to find this out. The engine was tired it'll become a nice coffee table.

 

[airbiscuit]

Okay,If I am understanding this right, The old version was variable speed with a belt drive with a CVT primary and secondary clutch like a snowmobile has. The Kubota diesel version will be a single speed with a chain drive?

The hydraulic pump for the rams on the loader arms and bucket is already on the Kubota? (I didn't understand your link)

In any case, things are moving along.

PS: Why don't you paint things up pretty when you have everything apart?

 

[fatjay]

Okay,If I am understanding this right, The old version was variable speed with a belt drive with a CVT primary and secondary clutch like a snowmobile has. The Kubota diesel version will be a single speed with a chain drive?

The hydraulic pump for the rams on the loader arms and bucket is already on the Kubota? (I didn't understand your link)

In any case, things are moving along.

PS: Why don't you paint things up pretty when you have everything apart?

The old system had a pulley that had a belt for primary drive to the jack shaft. Both pulleys were bowed out, so you could compress the engine side and it would get closer together, pushing the drive pulley out, increasing hte diameter. On the jackshaft side it was spring loaded, so if you increased the engine side, it would suck the pulley in spreading the two halves pushing the spring out. Widening the drive pulley would let the pulley go in, and the jack shaft side spring load back to close together. The engine side is controlled by a hydraulic cylinder that pushes the two sheaves together or retracts them. Then the jackshaft side was spring loaded and adjusted to accomidate the engine side. Each pulley was 2 pieces that could vary in width, increasing or decreasing diameter based on how wide it was.

Unfortunately, I don't have a good picture of it, which would make it much easier to understand. I have attached a picture that shows hte hydrauulic line that goes to the drive sheave piston, single acting, that varies the drive sheave width, increasing or decreasing the diameter, and pulling jack shaft to accomidate.

I'll clean it up as I go, but if it's painted it's good, if it's covered in oil and painted, better. No better rust prevention. My machines aren't show machines, they're work machines. If they're not rusting, they're good for continued opperation.