My new M7060 (pics)

   / My new M7060 (pics) #21  
TCP2020 -

The grill guard - the frame work is OEM on the 2009 M6040. I took the frame off the tractor and took it to a local steel fabricator. A young fellow at the fab shop worked up the expanded metal addition. The whole thing works very well. There are two "bolts" on each side. The upper "bolt" locks the grill guard in its vertical position. The lower "bolt" is the pivot point of the guard. I must pivot the guard forward to open the hood. The upper half pivots forward, the the "tongue" rests on the lower half. The fellow wanted to paint the entire guard - upper half quadrants, white with black eyes - - the tongue, red. I figured black was good enough.

The weight of my M6040 - four years ago I drove the tractor in to the grain scales in Cheney - ADM( Archer Daniels Midland ). It showed 10,010# on the digital readout. All I can say - it's a USDA certified grain scales. It accuracy is certified - - +/- 20#. I have no idea what is the actual base weight of the tractor. It's never been in a "base" configuration so that I could weigh it.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics) #22  
Before I actually weighed the tractor - this was my breakdown( calculated weight ).
1) tractor 4785
2) rear tires w/RG 1550
3) loader 1543
4) grapple 820
5) fluids, oil, grease, fuel 350
6) rear blade 1050

Total 10,098

I have no idea where the discrepancy between the calculated weight vs the actual weight is.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics)
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Now I see what you did with the grill guard...GREAT idea. I think I'll look into doing something similar. In the meantime, I'll try to stay away from pokey things that may want to breach the area under my hood. As, far as the weight, I think you hit the nail on the head with the additional items you listed such as fluids and then the rear blade. I may also have underestimated the weight of the bare loader. I was figuring closer to 1250...I'm having a hard time finding the weight listed in any specs on the internet. If somebody has a link...please provide. All of this said, I do not have a way to take my tractor to a certified scale, so I'm trying to estimate it as closely as possible. It sounds like I need to add several hundred pounds at a minimum.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics) #24  
HEY - hold de bloomin' phone. You should have been given an OP manual for the FEL with your new tractor. This OP manual is just as critical as the one they gave you for your tractor. Call your dealer - get your FREE copy of - Operator's Manual, Kubota Front Loader.

My loader - LA1153 - - your loader - LA1154. They look to be exactly the same.

This is the cover of my front loader Operator's Manual - - View attachment 666768

There is a footnote in my Tractor Op Manual stating that the bare weight of the tractor DOES NOT include - oils, greases, fluids & fuels.
 
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   / My new M7060 (pics) #25  
Again - I must stress the modification to your grill guard. At this point, you have no idea how VERY expensive a new grill, radiator or battery can be. Even if you temporarily stretch small mesh chicken wire across and secure with nylon ties - it will provide some protection until a final solution. I know it will look "cheesy" but it can save you BIG $$$. DO THIS and then use the money for more useful purposes - a HD rear blade, a HD box blade, etc, etc.

My solution will, most likely, not work in your case. Your OEM grill guard is a totally different design. I would suggest - heavy gauge steel sheet - rolled to fit across the grill guard. Specifically & strategically located holes in this rolled sheet. Either drilled or laser burned holes with a specific pattern.

While your intentions are great - "I'll try to stay away from pokey things" - in fact, it can/will happen even with your best intentions.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics)
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Thank you again for the advice. I will check my papers as I do not believe I received a FEL manual.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics) #27  
Great tractor, tires, grapple, and pictures.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics) #28  
BTW - those wider front tires are really nice. They will give a greater margin of safety when lifting really heavy loads with the grapple. Makes my 9.5x24 look pretty skinny.

Were the front tires OEM or an option?
 
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   / My new M7060 (pics)
  • Thread Starter
#29  
I did not specify anything different. Unless the dealer had already ordered different front tires I’m assuming they are standard. I’ll see if I can find out more info.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics) #30  
What size tires do you have? It looks like the standard radial option and that's an excellent choice.

Below are the standard factory sizes.



Agricultural Tires - Bias (R1)
FRONT - 9.5-24 R1 Titan Tru Grip Lug
REAR - 16.9-30 R1 DURA TORQ 17 mm holes (AMR8955C & AMR8932D)
FRONT - 9.5-24 R1 Goodyear Dura Torque
REAR - 16.9-30 R1 Goodyear Dura Torque Cast (AMR8955C & AMR8935D)
FRONT - 9.50-20 R1 Bridgestone Farm Service Lug M
REAR - 16.9-24 R1 Titan Hi Traction Lug TL 2.8"offset (MR8956 & MR8924B)

Agricultural Tires - Radial (R1)
FRONT - LSW320/70R24 GDYR OPTI R1W
REAR - LSW 420/75R34 GDYR OPTI R1W (AMR8605 & AMR8616)
FRONT - LSW320/70R24 GDYR OPTI R1W
REAR - LSW 420/75R34 GDYR OPTI R1W CST (AMR8605 & AMR8640)
 
   / My new M7060 (pics) #31  
Took possession yesterday...and put the new tractor to good use right away. Logged about 4+ hours and very happy to have the grapple function!

Nice. I would have optioned for the cast rear centers though. Both my M9's have them. Other thing you'll grow to dislike is the fuel filler. Unless you use a nozzle and bulk fill, the placement of the filler neck is a royal PITA.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics) #32  
Took possession yesterday...and put the new tractor to good use right away. Logged about 4+ hours and very happy to have the grapple function!

Nice. I would have optioned for the cast rear centers though. Both my M9's have them. Other thing you'll grow to dislike is the fuel filler. Unless you use a nozzle and bulk fill, the placement of the filler neck is a royal PITA.

Finally, all the Kubota open station seats flat suck. I guess if you like having a constantly sweating butt they are ok. I changed out the one on my OS M9 to a cordura covered seat. Cordura is weatherproof and no sweaty buns.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics) #33  
Look at the first & third pic - post#1. Those ARE Goodyear OEM radial tires. I got to agree - the fuel filler location is not ideal - but better than up on top of the hood. And finally - I think the seat on my M6040 is OK. It's flat - it's vinyl - I never have the need to use the tractor when it's so blooming hot outside.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics) #34  
Look at the first & third pic - post#1. Those ARE Goodyear OEM radial tires. I got to agree - the fuel filler location is not ideal - but better than up on top of the hood. And finally - I think the seat on my M6040 is OK. It's flat - it's vinyl - I never have the need to use the tractor when it's so blooming hot outside.

Kubota seats blow in general. Even the cab seats blow. Replaced both of mine (cab and OS) Nothing better than paying 30 grand plus for a tractor and getting a vinyl seat that looks like it came of an MTD lawnmower that was on sale at Tractor Supply..... I spend long and hot hours in my seats (farm) so sweaty butt isn't an option. Don't ever try to buy a Kubota replacement seat either. Kubota is extremely proud of them, extremely. When I replaced the vinyl sweat seat on the OS, it went to the curb and the trash man took it. Gave the cab seat to the guy down the road for his riding lawnmower. Where it belonged. Both got K&M air suspensions. I don't do springs very well either. Vinyl seats might work at McDonalds, they don't work on a tractor that gets used, like mine do. After 8 in the seat, I don't want to feel like I peed my pants.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics) #35  
Let me tell you all something about tires too. I run both bias and radials. Radials wear a bit better (I do quite a bit of pavement running) but radial or bias, when it comes time to replace them (and if you keep your steed long enough you will), it will cost you somewhere north of 5 grand for 4 shoes in bias and a bit more for radials. Tire dealers don't finance either. Save your pennies, they ain't cheap.

The best fuel filler placement is on the cab models with the filler right in front of the left hand door and step at waist height. Where it should be. Not on the hood or up on the back by the tool box.

Never understood the rationale for the hood filler especially but I guess if the fuel tank is up there, it makes sense. Mine are under the cab and under the floor on the open station.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics) #36  
Let me tell you all something about tires too. I run both bias and radials. Radials wear a bit better (I do quite a bit of pavement running) but radial or bias, when it comes time to replace them (and if you keep your steed long enough you will), it will cost you somewhere north of 5 grand for 4 shoes in bias and a bit more for radials. Tire dealers don't finance either. Save your pennies, they ain't cheap.

The best fuel filler placement is on the cab models with the filler right in front of the left hand door and step at waist height. Where it should be. Not on the hood or up on the back by the tool box.

Never understood the rationale for the hood filler especially but I guess if the fuel tank is up there, it makes sense. Mine are under the cab and under the floor on the open station.
Yes, that low placement make fueling easy and now that I have the HF battery pump it is much easier.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics) #37  
Yes, that low placement make fueling easy and now that I have the HF battery pump it is much easier.

Which pump? The battery (2 D cell) powered one or the new Bauer 20 volt powered one? I'm curious. I use the 2 D cell one to fill my open station away from the bulk tank and was considering the Bauer pump instead. The 2 D cell pump eats expensive batteries pretty fast, much more expedient to use a rechargeable one.

My cabin tractor is never an issue, filler is down low (where it belongs) not up high on the back.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics)
  • Thread Starter
#38  
What size tires do you have? It looks like the standard radial option and that's an excellent choice.

Below are the standard factory sizes.



Agricultural Tires - Bias (R1)
FRONT - 9.5-24 R1 Titan Tru Grip Lug
REAR - 16.9-30 R1 DURA TORQ 17 mm holes (AMR8955C & AMR8932D)
FRONT - 9.5-24 R1 Goodyear Dura Torque
REAR - 16.9-30 R1 Goodyear Dura Torque Cast (AMR8955C & AMR8935D)
FRONT - 9.50-20 R1 Bridgestone Farm Service Lug M
REAR - 16.9-24 R1 Titan Hi Traction Lug TL 2.8"offset (MR8956 & MR8924B)

Agricultural Tires - Radial (R1)
FRONT - LSW320/70R24 GDYR OPTI R1W
REAR - LSW 420/75R34 GDYR OPTI R1W (AMR8605 & AMR8616)
FRONT - LSW320/70R24 GDYR OPTI R1W
REAR - LSW 420/75R34 GDYR OPTI R1W CST (AMR8605 & AMR8640)

I made it out to check today. The front tires are the LSW320/70R24 and the rear tires are the LSW 420/75R34.
 
   / My new M7060 (pics)
  • Thread Starter
#39  
HEY - You should have been given an OP manual for the FEL with your new tractor. This OP manual is just as critical as the one they gave you for your tractor.View attachment 666768

There is a footnote in my Tractor Op Manual stating that the bare weight of the tractor DOES NOT include - oils, greases, fluids & fuels.

So....I pulled out the paperwork to check on this. I absolutely did receive a FEL manual with my new tractor. Honestly, the cover of the owners manual for the tractor and the one for the FEL look exactly the same. I actually thought they gave me two copies of the owners manual. The specs list the FEL weight 1543 lbs. (same as yours).
 
   / My new M7060 (pics) #40  
I made it out to check today. The front tires are the LSW320/70R24 and the rear tires are the LSW 420/75R34.

That is a great tire combo and you will love the radials.
 

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