New tractor advice - 11 acres long driveway, Kubota/LS/Mahindra

[3Ts]

Be sure you try out each tractor - how it fits you matters a lot unless you only operate it for 10 or 15 minutes at a time. Since you're getting a loader, be sure the transmission has a really low gear ratio as first gear (i.e. about creeper speed) or get an HST.

 

[blackdogfarms]

I'm usually an advocate for LS since I have one and they're usually cheaper than orange and green for the same features. But, looking at those quotes, tractors being equal, you're probably getting better implements from the Kubota dealer. A $1000 cutter and $450 box blade are going to be light weight and light duty. They would be fine for a little while, but you'll either be welding on them or replacing them in <5 years if you use stuff like I do. The trailer would be worth looking at too. I've seen good ones for that price, but it's probably right at the limit with that tractor, loader, and backhoe sitting on it.

That being said, the LS comes with a backhoe for that same money. If you don't want the back hoe, go LS and get a good trailer, box blade, and cutter elsewhere and still come in cheaper. I love my little LS, it's a work horse (G3038).

The LS financing department requires you to pay for the loader. So if the tractor is financed the cost would be the same as the Kubota because the LS Loader is no longer considered free. I have decided I would rent an mini-ex vs using a backhoe.

 

[blackdogfarms]

All 3 tractor brands you're considering are certainly decent machines. It depends on how they "feel" ergonomically to you when you operate them. Obviously, I chose the Mahindra for my 10 acres. Got a few more hp, more tractor weight for FEL work and pulling, no DEF or regen issues to contend with, and the bucket is a larger capacity (cube) than the others I was looking at.

I mow all 10 acres, and use a PTO 84" finish mower. (wish I'd gotten the 96") No issues on lifting it, running it, or pulling it.

I also have a ｼ mile gravel road to maintain, plus a 400' gravel driveway. One suggestion I might have for you is to consider using a York rake (landscape rake) to maintain that, rather than the box blade, unless you constantly have to cut it and reshape it. The York rake does a great job for me. I've used my neighbor's box blade, and it did OK on the road, but the York rake is much better.

It seems like you'll be doing a lot of grapple work. If you plan on clearing significant portions of your forested areas, you might consider foregoing the backhoe on the tractor, and renting a much bigger backhoe to take down trees, and pull stumps. I find the CUT backhoe's are not intended or engineered for digging/pulling large mature tree stumps. You can probably rent a big-guy backhoe for a few hundred bucks a week. Certainly less than the $1000's you'll spend on a CUT backhoe, not to mention the hassle of changing it out every couple of weeks to mow/brush hog. And you'll get much more production out of the bigger machine. I have a friend who has a big-guy back hoe, and we took down a 100' pine, 60' oak in about 20 minutes. (clean up was a bit longer :laughing

Ditto on those recommending an HST, especially for all of your grapple work. You also might want to consider a tooth bucket attachment, to dig out smaller brush/stumps.

I've got 1300 hours on a 4 year old 2538 (now 2638). Other than an update to the ECU, no problems at all. Change my own fluids and filters. Still purrs like a kitten and works like a Mule.

Just my 2｢.

Absolutely will be utilizing the HST transmission. I definitely need to go drive each of the tractors before making a decision. I appreciate the no DEF or regen part of the Mahindra but Kubota has not reported any issues with that in their 3301 and 3901 models.

 

[blackdogfarms]

How much does log weight matter? Afterall, the nice thing about clearing out firewood wood and logs is that their size and weight is quickly chainsaw-adjustable to fit the loader.

BTW, when trying to compare FEL lifting ability I've found it is just about impossible to get a clear one-to-one comparison from the spec sheets. They all seem to be measuring different things in different places. I now consider that all the competitive FEL loaders are going to be roughly equal when mounted on a compact farm tractor of similar weight.

I wouldn't make any decisions on which brand based on lifting specs. Not enough difference there to matter, anyway.

Some loaders do have better visibility than others. That might be worth looking at.
rScotty

Thanks I watched a few videos from MESSICK'S on the diff between the Mahindra and Kubota loaders. I would agree they are all within a few hundred lbs of each other. The 2019 Kubota specs shoes the loader at 1490 lbs which is nearly the same as the other manufacturers. Basically, while the kubota has thicker steel than the Mahindra, the Mahindra has higher lift capacity but it maxes out the tractor supposedly. Also Messick's is trying to sell Kubota's so there is that. Not saying they are wrong in any way .

 

[hks003]

My experience with high loads on front end loaders with these compact tractors is you'll pick the back end up, even with a counter balance, before you max the loaders. My loader is rated for almost a ton at full height, but much over 800 - 1000 lbs too far off the ground gets squirrelly, even with a 6 ft box blade on the back. My tractor is relatively light as well at just over 2600 lbs bare weight.

 

[metalbender]

If the criteria is loader capacity, look for a bigger tractor. I find it most comical to read all the rants about one dinky toy will lift 100 lbs more than another. A cut is not a dozer or a loader. That's why there are dedicated machines for the task. For fuel for the fire, get a Merlo Multi-farmer, more lift and pull with stability than you will ever need. Insert big smiling emoji here.

 

[ptsg]

If the criteria is loader capacity, look for a bigger tractor. I find it most comical to read all the rants about one dinky toy will lift 100 lbs more than another. A cut is not a dozer or a loader. That's why there are dedicated machines for the task. For fuel for the fire, get a Merlo Multi-farmer, more lift and pull with stability than you will ever need. Insert big smiling emoji here.

Or a Manitou, or a JCB, or a Dieci, plenty of choices available.

 

[mred2]

As stated, get on them all and test drive. I went LS and a lot of that was how well it fit me. On the LS financing, I went to a local credit union. I don't think they have their own financing. Kubota does. Most dealers will put a package together for you, with the attachments that you want. If you look at the bare tractors, you should find LS and Branson a little cheaper and a little heavier.

 

[repete]

It would be interesting to know what the pressure is on the single pivot pin on a front axle with a loader at full capacity or beyond and the leverage effect on the pin being the fulcrum of the entire tractor and load when the rear wheels come off the ground.

 

[johncanfield]

....BTW, when trying to compare FEL lifting ability I've found it is just about impossible to get a clear one-to-one comparison from the spec sheets. They all seem to be measuring different things in different places. I now consider that all the competitive FEL loaders are going to be roughly equal when mounted on a compact farm tractor of similar weight.....

True. Some will provide lift capability at the pivot (back of the bucket) and/or at the edge of the bucket. Meeting the manufacturer's lift metric will mean you have the appropriate rear ballast and/or filled tires and/or wheel weights. I found that a 1,000 pound practical lift limit on my old Kubota L2900 was about a thousand pounds less that ideal. My Deere 4720 (66hp large frame compact) with filled tires and a box blade will safely lift about a ton but that's it. Significantly more useful in several ways compared to the smaller Kubota.