Transfer switch

   / Transfer switch #81  
I don't remember if the installers tried it or not back then. This past August 10 was the only time I tried it. The rollers, hinges and springs get oiled annually.

I have never kept track, but after thinking about it, I doubt that door gets opened & closed 50 times a year.

I learned how to maintain a garage door because mine was used 50 times a day during the week
 
   / Transfer switch #82  
Looking at the picture of the actual garage door opener and the up down buttons next to the door,
I wouldn't be surprised if that was a line voltage box.
Does that require that you hold the open and close buttons till the door is were you want it?
If so I would definitely check to see what voltage is at the operator,
if you don't feel comfortable pulling the cover after killing the power and re energizing it with exposed wireing,
call an electrician and have him check it out or check with your door man when he comes out to service it.
 
Last edited:
   / Transfer switch #83  
I installed my Roybi door opener myself and followed the instructions.

If I remembered correctly, with a 4AH Roybi 18 volt LITHIUM-ION battery gets you 100+ openings on this size battery (has built in charger) when the power goes out.

The other things I remember is verifying the balance of the door, side to side, and also lifting the door up manually halfway open and letting go - the door should stay put.

And going through the electric eyes function testing, a long with the ? pounds of down force on a board (between two saw horses) before the door reverses itself.

I think all of these things are pretty standard with most/all openers.

And almost forgot about tripping the emergency rope and moving the trolley to the opener, then opening the door manually.

Maybe an installer of these that does this for a living can help with the specifics?

KC

Opener | RYOBI Garage Door Opener
 
   / Transfer switch
  • Thread Starter
#84  
Looking at the picture of the actual garage door opener and the up down buttons next to the door,
I wouldn't be surprised if that was a line voltage box.
Does that require that you hold the open and close buttons till the door is were you want it?
If so I would definitely check to see what voltage is at the operator,
if you don't feel comfortable pulling the cover after killing the power and re energizing it with exposed wireing,
call an electrician and have him check it out or check with your door man when he comes out to service it.

It is a low voltage switch. Just push a button, the up button for up, down for down and stop for stop. there is no need to hold any of them down....Unless the safety stuff is acting up and it won't go down. Then I push & hold the down button to override the safety stuff to force the door down.
 
   / Transfer switch #85  
Reminds me of mandated Emergency Lights. My Lady friends gets calls from CONDO residents in exteneded outages complaining that the Emergency Lighting doesn't work. At least the new LED units do last longer. People generally don't have a clue about the world and environment they live in. Or what they bought in so many different cases.
 
   / Transfer switch #86  
Looking at the picture of the actual garage door opener and the up down buttons next to the door,
I wouldn't be surprised if that was a line voltage box.

Even if they were line voltage, they would only go to control contacts, not the supply points.
 
   / Transfer switch #87  
How difficult is it to install one?

My door opener in the tin shed is plugged into an outlet on the ceiling. It is 15 feet high and I can't get up there to plug in a drop cord from a generator when the power goes out.

I would like some sort of transfer switch mounted beside the breaker box so I can plug in a 2000 watt generator to open the door so I can get the tractor out.

Also, any recommendations on the type/brand of switch to get?

I put in a locked manual cable. Just unlock it, pull the lock plug through with cable attached to it which then will unlock the garage door from the opener. Guess you made the same mistake we did, e.g. not putting in a people door on the garage to the tractor.

Ralph
 
   / Transfer switch #88  
Looking at the picture of the actual garage door opener and the up down buttons next to the door,
I wouldn't be surprised if that was a line voltage box.
Does that require that you hold the open and close buttons till the door is were you want it?
If so I would definitely check to see what voltage is at the operator,
if you don't feel comfortable pulling the cover after killing the power and re energizing it with exposed wireing,
call an electrician and have him check it out or check with your door man when he comes out to service it.
no, there low voltage. Ive installed quite a few of those over the years.
 
   / Transfer switch #89  
And I have worked on a couple in industrial settings that were line powered.

Another option if that is in BX like the rest of the wiring at the motor end would be to disconnect that wiring,
then use it as a pull rope to pull a pull rope into place from that opening to the motor then pull an additional run back
and place the transfer switch or disconnect right below that box.
 
   / Transfer switch #90  
And I have worked on a couple in industrial settings that were line powered.

Another option if that is in BX like the rest of the wiring at the motor end would be to disconnect that wiring,
then use it as a pull rope to pull a pull rope into place from that opening to the motor then pull an additional run back
and place the transfer switch or disconnect right below that box.
well, i personally dont see how a control can be line powered, as all reversing functions are done at the motor. Every unit i have ever worked on, and my background was mostly as a commercial and industrial electrician in the union, were 3 button controls fed by 18 ga control wire. I guess someone out there might have a line voltage control, but for the life of me i cant see how you can reverse direction on the unit by this method.
 

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