just got my chain back from being sharpened.....

   / just got my chain back from being sharpened..... #61  
I always attributed the curve cuts to uneven wear on the bar, actual letting teeth run not square to bar.... Spent some to squaring bar and it seems to help, still at a loss to figure out actual problem... Never thought much it to be a actual chain problem...I also flip the bar each time I do a chain ....


Dale

That can be a cause of a saw cutting on a curve. There are lots of ways a bar can get worn unevenly. Three common ones are: (1) not enough oil on the bar and chain, (2) continuing to cut when your chain is dull - often the teeth on one side will get more dull than the other, especially if you hit something other than clean wood, wearing the bar more on one side than the other (3) chain sharpened improperly, causing the teeth on one side to get more of a bite than teeth on the other - this makes the saw want to cut in circles, yet the bar in the kerf (or the operator by exerting pressure) tend to try to make the saw cut straight, putting more pressure on one bar rail than the other. Getting a pinched bar can often cause uneven wear as well (and often overheats the bar if you continue to cut with it, destroying the temper and leading to faster wear).
 
   / just got my chain back from being sharpened..... #62  
I guess I'm lucky. I rarely touch a raker. All of my sharpening is done with a dremel with the chain on the saw. I do have a HF sharpener but I found the wheel too course. Even with light cuts it left a rough finish so I went back to the dremel. As long as I produce nice chips I'm happy.
The raker controls the depth of the cut, if you aren't taking them down then how well does it cut by the time the chain is almost worn out?
 
   / just got my chain back from being sharpened..... #63  
If you sharpen the chain before it's dull and take off just enough of the teeth to make them sharp again, the required raker depth does not change much because the tooth height does not change much with each sharpening. So you don't need to check/lower the rakers often.
 
   / just got my chain back from being sharpened..... #64  
If you sharpen the chain before it's dull and take off just enough of the teeth to make them sharp again, the required raker depth does not change much because the tooth height does not change much with each sharpening. So you don't need to check/lower the rakers often.

Agreed.

I clean and sharpen my chainsaws (3) after each use. I use the Stihl chainsaw sharpener (0.325" size). Maybe 3 passes for each tooth.

I also make sure the chainsaw is topped off with oil and 50:1 pre-mixed gas and the chain is tight.

I want to feel confident that the next time I use the chainsaw that its ready to go.
 
   / just got my chain back from being sharpened..... #65  
You still have to take the rakers down though, as the teeth get down. Otherwise it eventually won't cut, which is why I asked how it works by the time you get toward the end of the life of the chain. I only go through about three chains a year now, but still take the rakers down as needed. Otherwise eventually they would be higher than the teeth and the saw wouldn't cut.
 
   / just got my chain back from being sharpened..... #66  
You still have to take the rakers down though, as the teeth get down. Otherwise it eventually won't cut, which is why I asked how it works by the time you get toward the end of the life of the chain. I only go through about three chains a year now, but still take the rakers down as needed. Otherwise eventually they would be higher than the teeth and the saw wouldn't cut.

I thought the Stihl chainsaw sharpener takes the rakers down automatically if needed while you are sharpening the teeth?
 
   / just got my chain back from being sharpened..... #67  
I thought the Stihl chainsaw sharpener takes the rakers down automatically if needed while you are sharpening the teeth?

I wouldn't know, I don't have a Stihl chainsaw sharpener. Mine is an Oregon, about 9 inches long with a wooden handle. ;)
 
   / just got my chain back from being sharpened..... #68  
I was at my local Stihl dealer yesterday buying a blower. While I was waiting for them to get it ready the guy behind the counter was watching an Outdoors with the Morgans youtube vid about identifying Stihl chains. He wasn't a new guy I've seen him there for years

When the sales guy is referencing chain identification vids you know the customers suffer
 
   / just got my chain back from being sharpened..... #69  
I thought the Stihl chainsaw sharpener takes the rakers down automatically if needed while you are sharpening the teeth?

Yes, it does, if you are using the Stihl 2-in-1 sharpener (which is just a re-labled Pferd Chainsharp CS-X)
 
   / just got my chain back from being sharpened..... #70  
You still have to take the rakers down though, as the teeth get down. Otherwise it eventually won't cut, which is why I asked how it works by the time you get toward the end of the life of the chain. I only go through about three chains a year now, but still take the rakers down as needed. Otherwise eventually they would be higher than the teeth and the saw wouldn't cut.

You got that right! If the rakers are never knocked down, you eventually can't cut nothing. I start to file them down, about 1/2 through the chains life. If you cuts aren't running straight, your teeth aren't the same hieght compared to the chains left/right side...
 

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