Bx or B

   / Bx or B
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks everyone I'll be calling around. Looks like the b wins out. Now to decide between the 23 and 26. Thinking ill start with the fel and mmm. Trying to decide between a ballast or just going with a box blade. Going to try and find a used brush rotary around 4 ft. I appreciate eveything!
 
   / Bx or B #12  
Thanks everyone I'll be calling around. Looks like the b wins out. Now to decide between the 23 and 26. Thinking ill start with the fel and mmm. Trying to decide between a ballast or just going with a box blade. Going to try and find a used brush rotary around 4 ft. I appreciate eveything!

Good choice regarding the rough cut mower but used 4' mowers are not easily found.

SDT
 
   / Bx or B #13  
I love my BX with a 60” MMM on my 5 acres, but it’s mostly fairly well maintained native grass. I’ve been filling in vole and coyote holes over the last 5 years. Uncomfortably bumpy in those areas. There have been several tasks where I wish I had more loader capacity. Also several areas that I sure wish I had a bush hog. I sheared the MMM PTO shaft at some point and had to replace it. Also dented the side of the MMM to the point that the blade wouldn’t spin but was able to fix it with some heat and a hammer. Both incidents likely due to rocks that I couldn’t see under taller grass. Tried moving a large pile of fill dirt at one point and realized how small the bucket was. I got one of the tiny front tires stuck in a pretty small coyote hole before i started filling them in. BX is great for what it is, but it’s not good on bumpy ground. The B has a similar stance with pretty small front tires.

I wouldn’t go with a B or BX on 8 acres that hasn’t been maintained. 8 acres with a MMM is going to take forever and will probably tear it up as you hit hidden rocks, wood, etc. After 5 years with my BX, I have no complaints, but I do wish I had more lift capability and I’ve been daydreaming about an L2501 for awhile. One of the biggest reasons is freight delivery. You pay an extra $75 for lift gate delivery of freight (things like implements...) if you can’t get it off the truck yourself. I’ve probably paid over $600 in the last two years because I wasn’t confident my BX had the height or lift capacity to do it myself.

Look long and hard at the L2501 for your needs. It’s not much more and it’s very rare someone wishes they bought a smaller tractor. Don’t let the larger size intimidate you. As long as you go with HST, you’ll learn quickly and the weight, larger tire size and wider stance will actually provide better stability and reduced risk of rollover.
 
   / Bx or B #14  
Thanks everyone I'll be calling around. Looks like the b wins out. Now to decide between the 23 and 26. Thinking ill start with the fel and mmm. Trying to decide between a ballast or just going with a box blade. Going to try and find a used brush rotary around 4 ft. I appreciate eveything!

I'd recommend going with the B2601 for the extra HP boost. I have a BX2360 and my dad has a B2601. He runs a 5ft rotary cutter on mostly tall grass and weeds where I use a 42in cutter but my property is more hilly. The 3 range transmission would be enough to convince me to get a B, but position control, split brakes, larger frame, heavier, bigger tires and wheels, etc. makes it a no brainer in my opinion.

For reference I bought my BX when I had a smaller place, now I have 16 acres and will be jumping up several sizes to an L or possibly an MX series. I'll be keeping the BX for all the small day to day tasks as well as mowing and landscaping as that's what it's made to do.
 
   / Bx or B
  • Thread Starter
#15  
The goal wld to eventually get the zero turn. Gotta convince the wife I need both. Figure get the one which can do more now then complain about how long it takes to mow and score the ZT later.
 
   / Bx or B #16  
BX series tractor are best regarded as wonderful lawn mowers with the ability to do light landscaping tasks. Kubota sells bazillions of BX tractors yearly and many owners are completely happy with them on one or two acres.

Minimal 9" ground clearance can make working in woodland difficult. If one wheel drops into a 4-1/2" burrow or rut and a second wheel goes up on a 4-1/2" mound or tree limb you may be stranded. Because of low ground clearance, HST cooling fan under the tractor is vulnerable to ground damage. Those who take BX tractors into woodlands often armor underneath. Several venders sell armor kits.

Subcompacts have two-range (2) HST transmissions. In HIGH range your max ground speed over uneven ground will be around six mph. You may find traversing eight acres with 400 pound to 500 pound bucket loads tedious at six mph.

Slightly larger 'Compact tractors' of 1,600 - 1,800 pounds bare tractor weight have larger wheels and tires. Larger wheels yield greater ground clearance, usually at least 12", and a much smoother ride over rough ground. With 12" ground clearance you can tractor cultivate a garden until crop reaches 12" to 14" height. Compact tractors have greater FEL lift capacity than Subcompacts. Subcompacts generally draw 48" wide implements. Compact tractors generally draw 54" or 60" implements. Allowing for a 5" overlap in use, a considerable improvement over 48" implements.

Five reasons owner/operators trade up from a BX:
More tractor weight.
More FEL lift capacity.
Greater ground clearance
Three-range (3) HST rather than two-range (2) HST on BX. (Lower LOW, Higher, HIGH)
More tractor engine horsepower to operate PTO powered implements.

For eight bumpy acres consider a Kubota LX2610.

8 rough acres puts out a BX unless you have someone get in there and grade it, no way.

A B for primarily moving dirt and mowing? Dirt moving is going to be slow, is it a project you could just rent another piece of equipment for or an ongoing project? A cubic yard of dirt is ~2,200 lbs...dry. Put another way that's five full buckets for the BX and probably two and a half for the B. I wouldn't drive very far with a max load in a bucket, so half that and you're making 10 trips with the BX or five with the B times ~1.5 MPH even going 100 yards your talking less than 13 round trips per hour just in travel not counting digging or piling dirt.

Have you considered the small L's or LX's? I think the cost increase would be marginal, especially if you're financing. You'll be safer moving loads with increased width and stance over rough terrain. In addition to larger lift capacities you get larger tires which will allow easier navigation in rough terrain and less wear and tear on the operator and equipment, possibly increased speed of travel.

Bumpy ground demands B.
Mowing 2 acres? Look into less mowing or a ZTR.
Hard clay & tiller needs more HP.
Look into a L2501, seems like just a few $$ more, but VERY popular due to emission evading.

I love my BX with a 60” MMM on my 5 acres, but it’s mostly fairly well maintained native grass. I’ve been filling in vole and coyote holes over the last 5 years. Uncomfortably bumpy in those areas. There have been several tasks where I wish I had more loader capacity. Also several areas that I sure wish I had a bush hog. I sheared the MMM PTO shaft at some point and had to replace it. Also dented the side of the MMM to the point that the blade wouldn’t spin but was able to fix it with some heat and a hammer. Both incidents likely due to rocks that I couldn’t see under taller grass. Tried moving a large pile of fill dirt at one point and realized how small the bucket was. I got one of the tiny front tires stuck in a pretty small coyote hole before i started filling them in. BX is great for what it is, but it’s not good on bumpy ground. The B has a similar stance with pretty small front tires.

I wouldn’t go with a B or BX on 8 acres that hasn’t been maintained. 8 acres with a MMM is going to take forever and will probably tear it up as you hit hidden rocks, wood, etc. After 5 years with my BX, I have no complaints, but I do wish I had more lift capability and I’ve been daydreaming about an L2501 for awhile. One of the biggest reasons is freight delivery. You pay an extra $75 for lift gate delivery of freight (things like implements...) if you can’t get it off the truck yourself. I’ve probably paid over $600 in the last two years because I wasn’t confident my BX had the height or lift capacity to do it myself.

Look long and hard at the L2501 for your needs. It’s not much more and it’s very rare someone wishes they bought a smaller tractor. Don’t let the larger size intimidate you. As long as you go with HST, you’ll learn quickly and the weight, larger tire size and wider stance will actually provide better stability and reduced risk of rollover.

I've bought 30 Kubotas in the past 18 years. Started with a BX2200 MMM FEL and in a year traded it to a B7800 RFM. My property quantity has changed up and down and up over those years and even had another several acres of rental units property. I currently have a F and ZD for mowing with the F being superior due to needfor 4wd on some parts and the need to control where it goes going down semi steep hill. I aquired 25 acres of woods so I also finally moved up to a MX5400 from a L3901 from a B26xx.
Your needs seem to indicate far more than the low ground clearance BX but as others have mentioned the L series would offer so much more for very little more money. Remember weight is your friend in tractors. You have lots of acres and lots of future goals/plans and now would be the time to get the more suitable machine for those needs than later.
I've never understood why anyone would buy a weight box instead of a box blade unless they just mow and if one just mows they don't need a FEL and without a FEL no rear weight is needed. If one has a FEL then they usually do landscaping/ground work and the box blade is near the top of needs for those jobs. Don't just go with what a dealer has in stock but get what you need and if it takes changing dealers or waiting till what you want comes in get what you need.
I wouldn't worry about the tax man catching me on unpaid state sales tax and I'd just pay the penalty if a bill were to come and never heard of anyone getting that bill. With your acres you could maybe claim farm exemption or maybe have a family farmer friend buy it and you buy from them if your paying cash.
 
   / Bx or B #17  
Last edited:
   / Bx or B #18  
I've bought 30 Kubotas in the past 18 years. Started with a BX2200 MMM FEL and in a year traded it to a B7800 RFM. My property quantity has changed up and down and up over those years and even had another several acres of rental units property. I currently have a F and ZD for mowing with the F being superior due to needfor 4wd on some parts and the need to control where it goes going down semi steep hill. I aquired 25 acres of woods so I also finally moved up to a MX5400 from a L3901 from a B26xx.
Your needs seem to indicate far more than the low ground clearance BX but as others have mentioned the L series would offer so much more for very little more money. Remember weight is your friend in tractors. You have lots of acres and lots of future goals/plans and now would be the time to get the more suitable machine for those needs than later.
I've never understood why anyone would buy a weight box instead of a box blade unless they just mow and if one just mows they don't need a FEL and without a FEL no rear weight is needed. If one has a FEL then they usually do landscaping/ground work and the box blade is near the top of needs for those jobs. Don't just go with what a dealer has in stock but get what you need and if it takes changing dealers or waiting till what you want comes in get what you need.
I wouldn't worry about the tax man catching me on unpaid state sales tax and I'd just pay the penalty if a bill were to come and never heard of anyone getting that bill. With your acres you could maybe claim farm exemption or maybe have a family farmer friend buy it and you buy from them if your paying cash.

I have two Kubota weight boxes, a large one for use with my M9960 and L6060 and a small one for use with my B3350 (could also use with B1750 but no need). All tractors but the 1750 have FELs.

I also have a box blade which is semi-permanently attached to one of my vintage Fords.

I find the weight boxes both useful and convenient despite having a box blade.

SDT
 
   / Bx or B #19  
The goal wld to eventually get the zero turn. Gotta convince the wife I need both. Figure get the one which can do more now then complain about how long it takes to mow and score the ZT later.

If, as you say, your land is rough and irregular, you will not like riding a ZT.

SDT
 
   / Bx or B #20  
I've got a B2650 which I use to maintain my 70 acres. 10 acres of that is a large natural pond, and a few smaller ones. The acreage is maintained purely for habitat. We have planted a small orchard and plan to increase annually. 30 acres is in natural local grasses, mostly big bluestem. The rest wooded, definitely some hills. Six tilled food plots probably around four acres total. Working to widen some trails. I believe this year we may create a walking trail in the natural grasses, as the grandchildren are getting older and I think walks in the grass will be nice for them, they love the trails in the woods and around the ponds already. This spring plan to plant 1000 white spruce trees and 500 natural fruited bushes, again purely to increase the habitat potential.

When the B2650 was purchased two years ago, we packaged with a ballast box, FEL, and RGA1258 tiller. Added an 1860 rotary cutter last year. Purchased a three-row planter this past fall. Our largest two acre food plot will be expanded to just over three acres this year. The tractor has been a perfect size for me, as my first tractor. I work it gently as I understand it's a smaller tractor and I think it keeps me working slower and more carefully. Which I don't mind at all. I sit in an office all week, time in the tractor seat is wonderful so I'm not in a hurry to get out of it and move on to something else too fast. Also work around trees some, no cab for me. Again, a the B2650 is a great tractor size for me.
 

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